tripplec
New member
I believe this is the correct forum for this machine.
It was suggest by a part place that my voltage regulator may be defective if I am having low voltage powering lights at low RPM's. I could buy a new one and replace it. But I thought I would test it but since this is somehow controlling the AC only as far as lights go.
How do I test to see it its working correctly. I have built DC regulators over the years but an AC it different. Other than clipping the peaks of the wave on +ve & -ve cycle with a zener diode I cannot visualize how its done. I could just buy another and see if it works better but given the cost I would rather have some justification from a test.
If I disconnect it will the output blow the lights or is it some sort of shunt in parallel.
Anyone know or have a schematic of the regulator internal circuit?
It was suggest by a part place that my voltage regulator may be defective if I am having low voltage powering lights at low RPM's. I could buy a new one and replace it. But I thought I would test it but since this is somehow controlling the AC only as far as lights go.
How do I test to see it its working correctly. I have built DC regulators over the years but an AC it different. Other than clipping the peaks of the wave on +ve & -ve cycle with a zener diode I cannot visualize how its done. I could just buy another and see if it works better but given the cost I would rather have some justification from a test.
If I disconnect it will the output blow the lights or is it some sort of shunt in parallel.
Anyone know or have a schematic of the regulator internal circuit?
tripplec
New member
Is anyone getting low voltage output at idle and/or low RPM's?
The lights on my 97sx always go dim at idle. So I am guessin it is due to lower voltage output at idle.
tripplec
New member
stein700sx said:
Thanks
If that is common across the board with similar engine and stator builds then I guess yamaha has a novice electrical engineer design these. One of my 1980 Motoski's did not have a noteworthy drop and I had a automotive quartz 60 watt bulb in it. You'd think that after 17 years they could stablize the electrical output a lot better.
middlman
New member
could be why they changed to have one of the brightest lights in history by 2001...
tripplec
New member
Well it doesn't help me or all the other owners. I notice as some gatherings of sled outings. That some OEM's have two or even three headlights, wow around 180 watts up front with three assuming 60 watt lamps. There is a point where its too bright, blinding the oncoming sleds which can make for a tree wrapping experience if the run off the trail.
middlman
New member
I know it doesn't help you, but if someone is buying a used sled that could play into what he/she purchases.. and i beleive from an engineers perspective it would be tough to argue to bright since there is too much variability. If someone has the aim set up wrong or how about when you hit the gas pull your front end up and your headlight is right in someones face.. tough to design around that.
tripplec
New member
Well I am primarily refering to trail riding where you pass side by each restricted by trees or whatever as we have here primarily or deep ditches where you don't want to venture into especially at night.
When you're out in the open two or three super white head lamps blazing will not adversely affect oncomer in the distance who may pass 30-60 ft away from you on lakes etc. On a trail you don't need three ultra white high intensity head lamps to see where you're going. You can't really go faster then you line of site and with turns ahead you're not likely to know whats around the corner and if someone is coming the other way all you see is a headlight and not where they are on the trail.
The manufacturers should provide some switch to control the headlights other than high or low beam since on uneven surfaces going up and down you beam at the oncomer either way.
My opinion, but the lights should NOT dim substantially when you come to a stop. I affects my decision where to go at a road crossing, stop sign and trail direction changes. I usually let my son drive ahead on his 94 formula STX. The lights don't dim on that and its quite bright even when he brakes to stop. I need to see and be seen when I come to a stop of which many times cars may be approaching and I am not even facing there direction at a crossing. Hence, with well dimed headlamp I don't have beam onto the road that I can expect them to see. Depending on where I came to a stop I could get clipped one day by being out too far.
I just wish there was a solution to this and my thread about the voltage regulator testing has gone unanswered. Maybe I will just replace it and hope there is an improvement but it will cost me about $50 in the end which no assurance that the existing one is failed.
When you're out in the open two or three super white head lamps blazing will not adversely affect oncomer in the distance who may pass 30-60 ft away from you on lakes etc. On a trail you don't need three ultra white high intensity head lamps to see where you're going. You can't really go faster then you line of site and with turns ahead you're not likely to know whats around the corner and if someone is coming the other way all you see is a headlight and not where they are on the trail.
The manufacturers should provide some switch to control the headlights other than high or low beam since on uneven surfaces going up and down you beam at the oncomer either way.
My opinion, but the lights should NOT dim substantially when you come to a stop. I affects my decision where to go at a road crossing, stop sign and trail direction changes. I usually let my son drive ahead on his 94 formula STX. The lights don't dim on that and its quite bright even when he brakes to stop. I need to see and be seen when I come to a stop of which many times cars may be approaching and I am not even facing there direction at a crossing. Hence, with well dimed headlamp I don't have beam onto the road that I can expect them to see. Depending on where I came to a stop I could get clipped one day by being out too far.
I just wish there was a solution to this and my thread about the voltage regulator testing has gone unanswered. Maybe I will just replace it and hope there is an improvement but it will cost me about $50 in the end which no assurance that the existing one is failed.
tripplec
New member
I have a schematic and the lights appear to be powered directly from the coil.