last 300 RPM to lose

helix

helix

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Joined
Nov 24, 2006
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106
Location
QC, Canada
and the choices are...
1.add rivets to primary weights?
2.Secondary spring from 9/1 postion to maybe 6/1?
 
Allways/allways 100% of the time with out fail tune rpm,s with the primary!!!!
 
yes of course.Thanks.Turk this next "what if?" is for leaning purposes only and don't yell... but what if instead of 300 rpm over rev, it's 500 rpm over rev and Secondary spring is in the 9/3 postion.So put secondary srpg in the 9/1 with primaty rivets or just go with even heavier rivets to the primary?Just Looking to understand why the primary adjmnt is best.
 
OK...so why is spring in 9/3 position to begin with? Thats messed up right there.
Go back to stock setting unless ur running a steeper helix & really agressive weights.
Adding mass depends on where overev is & what ur trying to achieve.
What kind of snowmobile/make/model/year do you own?
You gave me squat info to work with here.
 
It's a 2004 600 SXVENOM ER
Primary.. spring YWYL,8BU weights empty.
Secondary Hauck Red spring in position 9-1 ,Hauck Helix "T"Dual angle.
Rev 85-8600RPM flat pull in the mid range want to be at 82-8300RPM
Hauck instructions:if RPM to High set sec at 6-3 or add 015 Rivets (what hole?). If to low set sec at 9-3 or may need lighter rivets.
 
8bu is way too much for a 600 triple. Why didn,t you tell us what the sled was in the beginning with all this info & save us some grief? Run 8ca or 8ab weights. 8bu is unheard of in a 600 redhead.
 
Parts on hand and tried..

I have these parts..
-47 Deg helix and a hauck "T" helix (what is it?) .
-Yamaha red Secondary spring and a Hauck Red sec spring.
- GGG,YGY,YWY, primary springs.
-8dg weights with two 3.6 gr rivets in each. 8BU also.
-Gearing is 20/39
 
helix said:
It's a 2004 600 SXVENOM ER
Primary.. spring YWYL,8BU weights empty.
Secondary Hauck Red spring in position 9-1 ,Hauck Helix "T"Dual angle.
Rev 85-8600RPM flat pull in the mid range want to be at 82-8300RPM
Hauck instructions:if RPM to High set sec at 6-3 or add 015 Rivets (what hole?). If to low set sec at 9-3 or may need lighter rivets.
Click to expand...

I would not think 8500 is not all that high for a 600 tripple Red Head as they have a very "Flat" power band. [In fact if you look in the Tech section factory specs thats what Yamaha recommends!]
Usually if a sled does not pull well in acceleration it either needs more weight , a different weight profile/shape + or has too high of secondary spring tension/pressure.

With the clutch kit you have,you have basically answered your question in your statement"Hauck Instructions:if RPM is High set sec at 6-3 or add .015 Rivets.

I am sure you want to try + work with what you have.[6-3 or 9-1 makes little sense on most Yamaha Helixs]
Go with what Hauck says, change the Helix setting + see if its better...if not add the rivet to the tip of the weight, I have found most tripples like tip weight, especially for top end. If you still don't get a satisfactory result go to Turk's clutching recommendations[He knows the best Yamaha weight/spring/Helix combinations!]

Very few clutch kits are just "bolt on" + go...for Max performance they have to be "dialed in"

JM.02c
 
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thanks fellas. Does anyone know what the Hauk "T" Helix would be? You guys are worrying me with some things you said.Quoting Turk "8BU's are unheard of on 600 triples"
Side show Bob " 6-3 or 9-1 makes little sense on most Yamaha Helixs"
 
helix said:
thanks fellas. Does anyone know what the Hauk "T" Helix would be? You guys are worrying me with some things you said.Quoting Turk "8BU's are unheard of on 600 triples"
Side show Bob " 6-3 or 9-1 makes little sense on most Yamaha Helixs"
Click to expand...

I do not know what Hauck's "T" helix is but I feel they must use the indexing numbers on them differently then Yamaha.
 
Thanks, wish I knew what that T Helix is. Turk you said"add 1-2 grams to inner hole" do you mean to the 8BU weights?
 
I lost the mule sled 700 xc polaris as a comparison to clutch tuning.I would take it out of the hole he would get 2 lenghts on Mid and we would basically hold the rest of 1500'.This was with 47 deg. Helix, red sec, YGY prim and 8DG weights with 3.6 in each hole. 86-8800rpm. It corrected a terrible stock overrev with the sled 9500RPM+/- . Put the Hauck Kit in but did'nt have the mule to compare.It brought the revs to 84-8600rpm. I did'nt know until today how unortodox the Hauck set up is.
Darn now I'm back chewing on clutcing again LOL. Really all I wanted know, was sec spring or rivet to tweak the last 300 RPM.
I was happy with this Hauck Clutch Kit but would have liked to have seen more pull through the Mid especially the lower mid.
 
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Sounds like you should have left well enough alone!
But sometimes you have to go backwards to go forward. LOL
When we had the stock single pipe on our 99 SX600 we did the following:
-gutted airbox
-removed a head gasket layer
-Carbon Tech reeds
-reed spacers
-33 mm carbs off of a 700SX
-adjustable transfer rods
-light weight 1" staggered paddle Camoplast
-added some weight to the tip of the stock weights[don't have the notes anymore-10+ years ago]
-47 helix
-modded silencer[relief holes in bottom plate]
This sled was a real rocket for a 600 and embarassed a lot of bigger sleds as a bit of a "sleeper"
It took a lot of tuning to make it faster with porting + tripples!
That 600 is a great reliable easy to tune sled!
 
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the reason the hole positions of 9-1 and 9-3 sounding soo out of wack right now, is cause w/the hauck red sec spring, being in holes 9-1 isn't really 100deg of twist like it is when using a yammi spring, cause of where the spring ends are on the hauck spring. its really only like 30 deg or something. helix, i would just use OEM springs in your secondary. OEM green should be fine.
 
you may be right about that! guess I'll have to try both set ups again when the snow flys thanks
Helix
 
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