mopar1rules said:the reason the hole positions of 9-1 and 9-3 sounding soo out of wack right now, is cause w/the hauck red sec spring, being in holes 9-1 isn't really 100deg of twist like it is when using a yammi spring, cause of where the spring ends are on the hauck spring. its really only like 30 deg or something. helix, i would just use OEM springs in your secondary. OEM green should be fine.
Ah!!! Makes sense now! I like those Yamaha Greens as well!
mopar1rules
Active member
sideshowBob said:Ah!!! Makes sense now! I like those Yamaha Greens as well!
yep, yammi green spring is like my favorite. i use it probably 70% of the time. goodwin secondary springs are just like the hauck spring, where holes 9-3 is really like 30-50 deg of twist. soo much easier to just stick w/and use OEM sec springs while tuning. no confusion then. screw the aftermarket sec springs.
helix
Member
Sled came stock with a red yam sec spring.
Maybe I'll digress"sometimes you have to go back to go forward" and try the 47 Deg yam Helix, a green yam sec spring and the 8dg weights that are loaded with 3.5 rivets inner and tip with the YGY pri spring.
That sounds more old school tried and tested.
Will do a comparison against the Hauck kit.
Maybe I'll digress"sometimes you have to go back to go forward" and try the 47 Deg yam Helix, a green yam sec spring and the 8dg weights that are loaded with 3.5 rivets inner and tip with the YGY pri spring.
That sounds more old school tried and tested.
Will do a comparison against the Hauck kit.
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helix
Member
47 Deg. versus 51/43 Deg. Helix in 1500' run.
How would the the two runs differ on the same sled in a 1500' WOT run, and which helix would be stronger at
certain distances into the run?
How would the the two runs differ on the same sled in a 1500' WOT run, and which helix would be stronger at
certain distances into the run?
helix said:How would the the two runs differ on the same sled in a 1500' WOT run, and which helix would be stronger at
certain distances into the run?
The primary clutch would have to be adjusted/matched to each Helix, just changing from a staight cut helix to a multi angle without calibrating the primary would most likely result in performance loss!
The idea of a multi angle is to allow for a faster up shift during acceleration yet still allow a decent top speed. So basically a "dialed-in" 51/43 should up shift quicker[backshift will likely suffer a bit] and still allow the original 47 helixs top speed.