j_k_auto said:I finally got the sled running running. I am having some problems with it. It seems to have a miss. I changed all 3 plugs and same problem. Also it seems to miss at idle but once you start reving slowly to seems fine.
I am not sure but I think one of the cilinders is to low compaired to the rest.
One more thing. You have to give it a little throttle to get it running. It did this all last year but idle was ok. The carbs were also cleaned last year
What do you think?
Thanks for any help on this
I was referring to your first post, giving it a little throttle to get it running is normal, nothing to worry about.
hereismylife
Active member
sockeyerun said:On the bog, make sure your cables are not set to tight. Because of the TORS system they need to be set fairly loose. If not you will get a bog. This has tagged me a couple of times. Soc
Thanks and checked

hereismylife
Active member
SXlover said:I was referring to your first post, giving it a little throttle to get it running is normal, nothing to worry about.
Got it

yamahaguy_83
New member
Are the carbs in sync? I'm not sure what the effect of them being out of sync would be, but I know they do have to be syncronized and I didn't see that anyone else suggested it?
May be way off base but I thought I'd throw that out there.
May be way off base but I thought I'd throw that out there.
I cleaned the carbs on my 600 twin two weeks ago and they were extremely dirty. This a sled I picked up and am rebuilding. But I thought I did a good job cleaning and when I put them on and started it up it idle great and ran good up thru the throttle the first time and then I would notice the engine sounded different and I picked up a bog trying to come off idle. I took the carbs back off today and found that the air jet on one carb was plugged must of missed that one. I havent tried it since then but I think that was probably it. Make sure and blow thru ALL the ports.
Bluenote
New member
Back to the coils, did anyone maybe think even though he has spark on all three, he is only seeing spark when he manually cranks it over, what if when he starts to give it gas that one cylinders coil starts to fag out. I have had this happen on my street cars all time.
If you have a coil of one of your other sleds, swap it and see if it makes a diff. Least then you can take bad coils off the list.
If you have a coil of one of your other sleds, swap it and see if it makes a diff. Least then you can take bad coils off the list.
hereismylife
Active member
Good idea about the coils.
. I am going to check the float hieght, blow all air passages open ( compressed air) Check the whole carbs out...ect..
I will put it back together and get it started. I will then try different coils and go from there....
What would you do?
1. keep the fuel screw at stock ( 1 1/2)
2. turn them to ( 1 3/4 )
Thanks for all the help so far guys
I will get this figured out hopefully

I will put it back together and get it started. I will then try different coils and go from there....
What would you do?
1. keep the fuel screw at stock ( 1 1/2)
2. turn them to ( 1 3/4 )
Thanks for all the help so far guys


I will get this figured out hopefully

Use an ohmeter and test the coils, the plug caps, and also the stator.
Also, I don't think that is the newer 360 degree ignition (didn't catch the year), so all three coils fire all the time. You should be able to simply swap the plug wires to see if the problem switches to another cylinder.
I think you have more problems than just the fuels screws. I would set to stock or near, and leave them alone until you find the root cause. They should be used to fine tune the idle mixture. If you use them to correct the problem it is only a bandaid at best.
Also, I don't think that is the newer 360 degree ignition (didn't catch the year), so all three coils fire all the time. You should be able to simply swap the plug wires to see if the problem switches to another cylinder.
I think you have more problems than just the fuels screws. I would set to stock or near, and leave them alone until you find the root cause. They should be used to fine tune the idle mixture. If you use them to correct the problem it is only a bandaid at best.