golmax
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Hello, I just recently put a 136" extension on my 2000 srx. It always sat up a little in the back but never this bad. The rear of the suspension sits up 3 1/2 inches off the ground. I always thought they were suposed to sit flat. I hear that drag racers actually put a scale under the track in the front and bact to ensure equall weight. All my non yamaha riding friends whis is all of them think my sled is broke and assure my that i will continue to sit and spin eventho i just put the 1.25 ripsaw and a 136 extension on it.
Is there anything i can do to correct this or is it the way its suposed to be?
Please help me understand how this suspension works because as of now im clueless. all the sled i see sit flat except for mine
Is there anything i can do to correct this or is it the way its suposed to be?
Please help me understand how this suspension works because as of now im clueless. all the sled i see sit flat except for mine
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blue who
New member
udue those transfer rods than send another pic looks cool
golmax
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is it posible to run it without the transfer arms?
blue who
New member
you can but the track will keep steching and running loose.
golmax
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dont want that. Do you know if this is normal or not?
DoktorC
Member
How much sag is in the front suspension? Something seems weird there..I would have expected there to be no gap on the bottom of the transfer rod. Unhooking them won't change your situation. You can fix some of this by tightening up your limit straps..but I don't think that the ideal solution...
ekimsx600
New member
I think you might have to much preload on the center shock. How does it look when you sit on the sled?
Rambunctious
New member
looks like this suspension is long travel???? think of the front of track as the teetering point. I think your front (ski) spring setting is not long enough...... or you still have too much preload in the "center" track spring.
take a pic of the whole sled. side view, then the front to see how the radius rods are sitting for the front. are they level? or slightly sagging in the center or some "V" to them to compensate for the higher rear suspension settings?
just my thoughts but by no means am I an expert. i just bought viper shocks and will be digging into all this myself hopefully this weekend
Ramb
take a pic of the whole sled. side view, then the front to see how the radius rods are sitting for the front. are they level? or slightly sagging in the center or some "V" to them to compensate for the higher rear suspension settings?
just my thoughts but by no means am I an expert. i just bought viper shocks and will be digging into all this myself hopefully this weekend
Ramb
Harvey
New member
I thought you had to use a different W-Arm and shocks for long track suspension.-Harvey
DoktorC
Member
nope...the Mountain max 141/144 suspension has a different front arm (H instead of W)...but the 136 is the same. Shocks only need changed if you're going long travel.
golmax
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its a stock srx suspension. the only thing ive done is ad the 136" hartman kit and the ripsaw. the front shock on the rear suspension is set just tight enough to keep a little tension on the spring with no load on it. my front limiting staps are suposed to set at factory. i mesed with them quite a bit last year and brought them to the dealer to set it all back to factory. If i measure they are 1 inch from the end of the threaded rod to the plate. sry i cant get any more pictures for a few days i just took out the front shock to replace the bushings and i have a trailing arm off for a little welding but as soon as i get it assembled ill post more pics
ReaperSRX
Member
I may have missed something, but have you not changed or modified your transfer rods.....when you longtravel you also need to lengthen youf rods to accommodate for the extra length, this might be your problem, i longtravel'd my sled last year and put Advantedge Rods for a Viper, this year i am longtracking and the skid goes back in later this week, i am positive i will not have that kinda lift in the rear with the longer transfer rods.......James
2ooosrx
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golmax said:its a stock srx suspension. the only thing ive done is ad the 136" hartman kit and the ripsaw. the front shock on the rear suspension is set just tight enough to keep a little tension on the spring with no load on it. my front limiting staps are suposed to set at factory. i mesed with them quite a bit last year and brought them to the dealer to set it all back to factory. If i measure they are 1 inch from the end of the threaded rod to the plate. sry i cant get any more pictures for a few days i just took out the front shock to replace the bushings and i have a trailing arm off for a little welding but as soon as i get it assembled ill post more pics
He says right in what he wrote that it is a stock srx suspension and it was not longtraveled.
blue who
New member
i think the longer shock in the centre needs the longer steel straps that control its swinging motion, i am just wondering how mutch tenshion is on those rods
DoktorC
Member
Its not a long travel!! and you don't need the longer steel straps..there the same between both suspensions.
snowdad4
VIP Member
my srx looked similar to that with the 121/1.5 on it, lifted the rear after the taller lug on it. did you happen to change drive sprockets from 9 tooth to 8? to allow for track lug clearance? i put nearly 1500 miles on mine looking like yours with no ill affects
golmax
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my track in only 1.25 lug so i kept the stock sprockets i did change the gearing to 21/40 to make up for the 136 extension and track..
i seen a viper at the dealer today and it sat flat
i seen a viper at the dealer today and it sat flat
mrviper700
VIP Lifetime Member
I thought I posted on this already, but cant find it now, your limiter straps are out too far, it is sitting on the front skid shock, thats why its like a teeter totter, to do this: place a block of wood 4x6 or something like that under the front shock/track and let sled down on it, tighten up the straps, makes this real easy to do. I also cant make out (from the pic)what spacers you have on the bottom of the transfer rods, but you need a set of 2.5mm ones there and then the skid does not nose dive in the front. The sled will still hook up alot, you wont have to have the straps out as far with it being longtracked, your applying more force to the rear skid with added leverage from the rail extensions.
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2ooosrx
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You must have changed your front suspension in some way, did you adjust the preload or anything? I dont think the problem lies in the rear end, it looks to me like it is mostly coming from the front, did you change anything there at all, let us know