2ooosrx
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- Oct 2, 2004
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- 34
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- www.cbperformanceparts.com
yah, that is definitally one of your problems, there is a chart in the tech section and here is the link
http://hem.passagen.se/rogg/yamsetup/startsida_eng.htm
once you go here, click on tables at the bottom of the page, then go to front suspension, then go all the way to the top and click on front shock spring preload adjustment. It will tell you the range that your preload should be at for which ever spring you run. I hope this helps. BTW, to measure there are 25.5 mm to one inch.
http://hem.passagen.se/rogg/yamsetup/startsida_eng.htm
once you go here, click on tables at the bottom of the page, then go to front suspension, then go all the way to the top and click on front shock spring preload adjustment. It will tell you the range that your preload should be at for which ever spring you run. I hope this helps. BTW, to measure there are 25.5 mm to one inch.
yamaholic22
Active member
Yea that definately looks like too loose of a front suspension, not too tight of a center spring or too long limiter straps. I think the rear is fine, front needs to go up 
golmax
New member
- Joined
- Nov 21, 2004
- Messages
- 61
im also going to try to put the stock transfer rods back on and see if i got a short pair of after market transfer rods.
Also what u say about the front might be it because i once heard that the proaction suspension (full coupling suspension) performs best when parallel to the tunnel. mine is dead nuts parallel to the tunnel.
these are some quotes from tom hartmans website
YAMAHA Pro-Action Rear Suspension
After years of dealing with the Yamaha Pro-Action system (a true parallelogram suspension with two way coupling) we have found it to be very finicky, and that an incorrectly adjusted suspension will cause a terrible ride (ratcheting, binding or bottoming) and possible suspension damage. One of our main concerns and the number one problem is an incorrectly set up suspension that when compressed the stroke or rearward travel of the slide frame exceeds the inner diameter of the track binding the suspension, and eventually something has to give. This will cause damage ranging from broken drive axles, bent tunnel or shock mounts, to bent track adjusters. All these form an improperly adjusted suspension. It is CRITICAL that you adjust the suspension AND track to factory specifications. Here are some we use for our Mountain Max 700's. The front limiting strap adjustment 25-30mm.The factory maximum is 35mm (pulled up) and minimum 10mm (let out). This is measured from the tip of the adjustment bolt to the plate the bolt goes through. The upper gap in the control rod 10mm. The factory maximum is10mm and minimum 7mm. Again we can't stress enough the fact that you should be using the factory track and suspension limit specifications for your model suspension.
These are excerpts from an article that was published by Snow Tech winter 1997-98 issue. They can be contacted at (320) 763-5411 or (Editor@RaceRally.com) we highly recommend a subscription to the magazine.
Angle of Incidence
This is where the parallelogram concept came into being, which all coupled vehicles are a variation. (Parallelogram meaning that if you have equal length arms and equal length bars the link has to stay parallel at all times.) By limiting the movement of the rear arm, both arms would move "together" as a parallelogram, even though only one of the arms actually encountered the bump. The end result is that the suspension rails remain fairly parallel to the chassis.
So this leads me to believe that my skis are to soft and maby i need the 1" bracket's for the front shocks
Also what u say about the front might be it because i once heard that the proaction suspension (full coupling suspension) performs best when parallel to the tunnel. mine is dead nuts parallel to the tunnel.
these are some quotes from tom hartmans website
YAMAHA Pro-Action Rear Suspension
After years of dealing with the Yamaha Pro-Action system (a true parallelogram suspension with two way coupling) we have found it to be very finicky, and that an incorrectly adjusted suspension will cause a terrible ride (ratcheting, binding or bottoming) and possible suspension damage. One of our main concerns and the number one problem is an incorrectly set up suspension that when compressed the stroke or rearward travel of the slide frame exceeds the inner diameter of the track binding the suspension, and eventually something has to give. This will cause damage ranging from broken drive axles, bent tunnel or shock mounts, to bent track adjusters. All these form an improperly adjusted suspension. It is CRITICAL that you adjust the suspension AND track to factory specifications. Here are some we use for our Mountain Max 700's. The front limiting strap adjustment 25-30mm.The factory maximum is 35mm (pulled up) and minimum 10mm (let out). This is measured from the tip of the adjustment bolt to the plate the bolt goes through. The upper gap in the control rod 10mm. The factory maximum is10mm and minimum 7mm. Again we can't stress enough the fact that you should be using the factory track and suspension limit specifications for your model suspension.
These are excerpts from an article that was published by Snow Tech winter 1997-98 issue. They can be contacted at (320) 763-5411 or (Editor@RaceRally.com) we highly recommend a subscription to the magazine.
Angle of Incidence
This is where the parallelogram concept came into being, which all coupled vehicles are a variation. (Parallelogram meaning that if you have equal length arms and equal length bars the link has to stay parallel at all times.) By limiting the movement of the rear arm, both arms would move "together" as a parallelogram, even though only one of the arms actually encountered the bump. The end result is that the suspension rails remain fairly parallel to the chassis.
So this leads me to believe that my skis are to soft and maby i need the 1" bracket's for the front shocks
Rambunctious
New member
1" brackets, or simply add 1" of preload ( which is really just ride height) back into the shocks.
or do what i just did this weekend when i long traveled, flip the stock brackets over. you need to grind some flange areas off to make them sit flat on the mountings again and also clear the shock when remounting, but they're free
but i'm no expert, just learning from the board
Ramb
or do what i just did this weekend when i long traveled, flip the stock brackets over. you need to grind some flange areas off to make them sit flat on the mountings again and also clear the shock when remounting, but they're free
but i'm no expert, just learning from the board
Ramb
golmax
New member
- Joined
- Nov 21, 2004
- Messages
- 61
ty thats not such a bad idea. im on a low budget plus im a fabricator so that would be fairly easy. ill look into that.
I was told any more than a inch and you will create bump-steer problems but i dont know if thats true
I was told any more than a inch and you will create bump-steer problems but i dont know if thats true
Rambunctious
New member
someone gave me taht idea on the board but said to take left bracket and mount upside down on right side, and visvera.
I may have mixed them up but seemed the same bracket worked on it's original side. in one case. i mounted the shock on the top after flipping adn it swung to a different place at bottom, used teh other bracket and both ends lined up.
so try them.. i ground the flanges on teh brackets to clear the shock housings, and then ground a turned flange on teh bulkhead. you will see it when you look up there. the bracket has an ofset to clear this, but flipping doesn't have the offset, so grinding some of the flange makes them mount flat again
I may have mixed them up but seemed the same bracket worked on it's original side. in one case. i mounted the shock on the top after flipping adn it swung to a different place at bottom, used teh other bracket and both ends lined up.
so try them.. i ground the flanges on teh brackets to clear the shock housings, and then ground a turned flange on teh bulkhead. you will see it when you look up there. the bracket has an ofset to clear this, but flipping doesn't have the offset, so grinding some of the flange makes them mount flat again
800
New member
The problem you have is normal on srx's. The srx front shock was longer than an sx. Thats why srx's would eat hyfax so bad. They would always sit with the rear wheels off the ground. You just made it worse by extending it. You can fix it one of 2 ways. Loosen the center spring as far out as you can. With your ski shocks adjusted correctly, pull your front limiters down till you get the rear wheels back where they were when it was a 121. tighten the ceter shock back up till the adjuster just contacts the spring plus an eight inch. Or, put a 97 98 sx center shock in it and adjust the suspension normally.