I used ATF in my Viper

stretchSXV

stretchSXV

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I figured last spring after reading on here to put ATF in your sled to store it I would try it. Well it only took 3 turns of the key to get her fired up. On a side note it took 2 pulls on my rev to get that one fired up. I was scared to death at how long it would take to fire them up with ATF in there.Just make sure you get out of the area b/c she smokes like you wouldn't believe. I'll have to take her apart to see what it did to the inside. I put up a video on my facebook page of it running. Not sure how to post videos on here. LET THE RIDING BEGIN :) ;)!
 

Well here is the link to the thread that made me try it.


http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?t=50281&highlight=fogging

Read post #4 from Gary "Nosboy" this is how I did it. You do need to keep the RPMS up and it did smoke like you wouldn't believe. I didn't know it but it ended up fowling my plugs so I put new ones in it today before firing it up. I don't have pics of what it did to the powervalves etc b/c I'm not tearing it apart yet. Once I install my M-10 or a rev skid into it I will take the carbs and check power valves. I just wanted to try something different then using fogging oil.
 
ATF has some incredibly powerful detergents in it. I am going to use NOSBOY's ATF fogging technique at the end of this coming season. Fogging is the only way to store an engine for a long period of time. ATF in the carb bowls will definitely keep them clean.
 
I'm GLAD that SOMEONE reads this stuff!!!! Some nights,, I stay awake HALF the night trying to build a BETTER MOUSETRAP,, or just TRY and figure out something that seemed like it was figured out already....if you can relate?????? I learned about the properties of "trans fluid" first in AUTO DIESEL TECHNOLOGY in the TRANS 2 class at Greer Tech.... Wrenchin put me through IIT and I learned some more about "additive packages" and the do's and dont's of Ammonium Nitrate and MR BUBBLE.... ( I won't elaborate further)... needless to say,, BETWEEN PARTIES,,, I learned a little bit about a little bit....... Glad it worked well for you!!!! You'll be REALLY IMPRESSED when you take your powervalves apart!!!! (all that carbon will be as soft as PUPPY POOP!!! Gary Oles nosboy
 
Ha and my buddy I ride with looked at me like I was nuts for putting ATF in and this weekend we were running my two sleds(viper and a rev) and his( a rev) around a field and mine ran like champs and his carbs are clogged and the thing back fires and is sluggish. We are taking my viper and his rev apart sometime this weekend to compare carbs etc. I will post pics b/c I am a believer in the ATF. Awesome post and thanks for the info Gary ;)!
 
I absolutely agree with all of this. Good stuff here TY.com! Anyhow Gary...Instead of the solid heavy dose of straight ATF, couldnt you pre mix at about 20:1 with approx 2-3 gallons left in the tank from the last ride of the season and run it for about 45 min and then shut her down for the summer. Obviously the 100% ATF sucking in through the fuel line would be very effective in coating everything but a mess in the fall to flush out. Just a thought...
 
unchained said:
I absolutely agree with all of this. Good stuff here TY.com! Anyhow Gary...Instead of the solid heavy dose of straight ATF, couldnt you pre mix at about 20:1 with approx 2-3 gallons left in the tank from the last ride of the season and run it for about 45 min and then shut her down for the summer. Obviously the 100% ATF sucking in through the fuel line would be very effective in coating everything but a mess in the fall to flush out. Just a thought...
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The detergent package will get destroyed by the Fuel and ESPECIALLY the ALCOHOL in the fuel.... RACE FUEL does NOT deteriorate the way "pump gas" does... If you want to use,,,lets say,,, 100 LL (one hundred low lead) from the airport and cut it 20 to 1 with 100LL and trans fluid,,,,, it PROBABLY would NOT RUN good at all for longer than a MINUTE or so before it KILLS the SPARK PLUGS,,, but,,, I REALLY PREFER the 100% UNCUT Transmission fluids characteristics with CLEANING and KEEPING EMMOLIATED the powervalves and powervalve seals too!!!
 
A 50/50 mix of Acetone and ATF is the best mixture to free stuck nuts and bolts and has been known the free locked up motors as well. It works better then WD-40 or PB Blaster.
 
another ? can you pour ATF in your daily driver truck without any problems Like when you gas up at station and then pour it in your tank and run it like that will it harm anything or it just for storage use
 
needaSRX said:
another ? can you pour ATF in your daily driver truck without any problems Like when you gas up at station and then pour it in your tank and run it like that will it harm anything or it just for storage use
Click to expand...

We used to do that in our vehicles as a "Tune Up" to clean valves + combustion chambers but that was pre cat convertors...don't know how the cats would like it!? Have not tried it since I parted with my 70 Mach 1.
 
I too can attest to ATF in a sludged up motor's crankcase, the stuff does wonders to dissolve engine contaminates. I might just try this next year! And I just love smoke so this will be a ton of fun!

But really my favorite smell is race gas run through a two-stroke. If they made cologne out of that I'd totally wear it all the time!
 
If they made cologne out of that I'd totally wear it all the time![/QUOTE]




They do they do its called smell you later!!
 
Since there are friction modifiers, etc and other differences in dex/merc, type f, type h, etc.

So Im learning that type f does not have friction modifiers and is used in my Simplicity sub compact hyd system. So now Im wondering if using Dex/Merc as an engine additive/cleaner, etc with friction modifiers would cause some other problems? Is type f better for use in a combustion engine, chaincase, etc, etc? I love this topic....
 
sleds are in the garage thawing. Not sure if Riding them for two days will mess up trying to clean the valves but I couldn't pass up the sweet snow we now have here. I'll get them apart and take pics.
 
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