srx clutching

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stealther27

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Jefferson, WI
Hey guys this past week I was messing with the clutching on my 02 srx 700 and my buddy whos been working on yamahas for 10+ years told me to put in a green yamaha spring wrapped at 70 in the secondary. My sled for now also has 144 studs, transfer rods and otherwise stock clutching. So this weekend I took it out riding and with just those few add ons the sled seemed to pull pretty good most noteable was in the midrange. So now im wondering if you guys have any input on some other clutching tips I could do, im looking for the sled to pull like a freight train from low end to the top, like my 98 srx 700 I had which when being rode at 50-60mph could just pull the skis up and rocket up into the triple digits when you nail the gas, basically thats what im looking for this sled to do. Im hoping you guys can give me some good info I would appreciate it. :letitsnow
 
Srx Clutching

Not That I Am Going To Disregard The Knowledge Of A Lot Of People Here But Look For Yammiegod On This Forum And Pm Him For Srx Clutching Info.

Many Many Others Here Are Also Experts On The Srx, But I Know Tony Knows Them The Best. Imho

Jersey Joe
 
Try this set up then hang on....

8dn-20 weights(you should have in already)

4.5 gram rivets in both holes
with either of the two springs;w-w-w or y-s-y, the white has more
engagement/preload(for heaver rider)

54/44 helix with green secondary @70 wrap

your shooting for when pinned shoots to 8100-82 then slowly climbing
to 8500 WOT..no more..that's peak HP on a stocker
 
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I have a 2000 SRX 700 all stock and I just installed 8BU-00 with .8 inner and 4.5 tip with a Green/White/Green with a stock 47 Helix and Silver Secondary wrap at 80 and the RPMS are spot on 8100-8200 at launch and WOT slowly climbs to 8500 and stays there but I'm in need of a little more better traction as it spins on a hard launch even though I have 144 trail studs which some are broken and some are bent. I can get to 110mph on the Dream-O-Meter in about 1200ft and is still pulling but I run out of room quick. I also have 21/40 gearing
 
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Daman - when refering to clutching, what is meant by the "wrap"?

I just put my secondary back together and I'm in hole 1 and 9 on the clutch. Is that what you are refering to?
 
How mutch "twist"/tension is on the secondary spring.

and that would be 100 on yours waaaay to much, back it off some 70 to 80 depending on the snow conditions you ride in 90% of the time is more like it.
 
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GREAT THING ABOUT THIS SITE IS IF YA GO TO THE CLUTCHING TECH PAGE, MANY , MANY MEMBERS HAVE SHARED THEIR SET-UPS HERE. ACOUPLE OF THINGS, FIRST WHEN YA OFFER A CLUTCH SET-UP TO SOMEBODY, ALL THEY CAN DO IS TRY WHAT YA SUGESTED, IF ONE DON,T LIKE IT, TRY SOMETHING ELSE. SECOND, LIKE NEEDASRX POSTED ABOVE, WHEN YOU INPROVED THE PERFORMANCE OF YOUR SNOWMOBILE THROUGH CLUTCHING YOU MUST HAVE PROPER AMOUNT OF TRACITION. EITHER THROUGH THE RIGHT AMOUNT OF STUDS OR A GOOD TRACK FOR HOOK UP. WHAT GOOD WOULD A HOT CAR BE WITH CRAP TIRES ON IT. 3:16 (yammie tony)
 
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daman said:
Try this set up then hang on....

8dn-20 weights(you should have in already)

4.5 gram rivets in both holes
with either of the two springs;w-w-w or y-s-y, the white has more
engagement/preload(for heaver rider)

54/44 helix with green secondary @70 wrap

your shooting for when pinned shoots to 8100-82 then slowly climbing
to 8500 WOT..no more..that's peak HP on a stocker
Click to expand...

same preload, so same engagement. w/w/w spring has a lower 2.25kg rate, while the y/w/y spring has a 2.5 kg rate. the lower rate of the w/w/w spring, will allow the primary to shift out faster and shift rpms will be lower.
 
thanx guys for the info yea my sled stock has the 8dn-00 weights and today im gonna order that helix that daman recomended, but I was wondering about that y-s-y primary spring. You said that it is a more aggressive spring and since im a lighter rider I weigh 175 with gear on, so would you guys recomend that i run that spring instead of the w-w-w spring? :2strokes:
 
THATS PROBLEY BEST ALL AROUND SET-UP FOR THE SRX , RIGHT THERE!! 3:16 (yammie tony)
NOTE: I JUST BUILT A CLUTCH KIT FOR MY 2002 SRX USEING 8BU-10 WEIGHTS. I,LL POST RESULTS SOON AS I FIELD TEST.
 
stealther27 said:
thanx guys for the info yea my sled stock has the 8dn-00 weights and today im gonna order that helix that daman recomended, but I was wondering about that y-s-y primary spring. You said that it is a more aggressive spring and since im a lighter rider I weigh 175 with gear on, so would you guys recomend that i run that spring instead of the w-w-w spring? :2strokes:
Click to expand...

I would double check your weights. Stock weights for '00-'02 are 8dn-20's. The 8dn-00's were stock for '98. I am not sure the WWW, 54/44, Green would work as well with the 8dn-00's. Different ramp profile.
 
mopar1rules said:
same preload, so same engagement. w/w/w spring has a lower 2.25kg rate, while the y/w/y spring has a 2.5 kg rate. the lower rate of the w/w/w spring, will allow the primary to shift out faster and shift rpms will be lower.
Click to expand...

Nope www has is a 45kg pre load and 119 total force(4200ish rpms) wile the ysy(you got ywy,not the same spring,you read it wrong) is 35 is 118 pre load(37-3800rpms),but both have about tha same total force so shift out should be close,so i recomend the WWW if your a heavy guy and the YSY if your a light guy,im talking engagment not shift out. i'd rather have a lower engagement speed on snow it helps you(a SRX) hook up better little less spinning outa the hole.

Also the green secondary ive found is better for trails, and the red for top end WOT type riding.

thats how i got mine set up and it works for me,all i can say is play with it and see what works for you.
 
daman said:
Nope www has is a 45kg pre load and 119 total force(4200ish rpms) wile the ysy(you got ywy,not the same spring,you read it wrong) is 35 is 118 pre load(37-3800rpms),but both have about tha same total force so shift out should be close,so i recomend the WWW if your a heavy guy and the YSY if your a light guy,im talking engagment not shift out. i'd rather have a lower engagement speed on snow it helps you(a SRX) hook up better little less spinning outa the hole.

Also the green secondary ive found is better for trails, and the red for top end WOT type riding.

thats how i got mine set up and it works for me,all i can say is play with it and see what works for you.
Click to expand...

sorry, i read it wrong then. thought you said y/w/y instead of y/s/y.
 
going through an old parts bin and came across a y/s/y primary spring and also a green secondary...running a 2000 srx which is bone stock right now except for a newer 1" track and 144 studs...

just looking for some insight on a starting point for clutching...i don't have a multi-angle helix (stock as mentioned) and am not very good at figuring out clutching...can i use these springs with my stock helix and 8dn-20 weights??

oh, also, i am 215 lbs and mainly trail ride (88%) with a little lake racing (12%) and a little powder riding (10%)
 
i guess what i should be asking is if this is a good set-up for me??

stock weight 8dn-20 with y/s/y spring

green secondary with stock helix

also wondering how tight to wrap that seconday spring and if i should add more weight to the primary with that spring..like i said..looking for low-mid-range performance (corner to corner)

is this acheivable without a multi-angle helix and the combo i have??
 
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