panteramatt
New member
So oem is that much better? Not arguing just trying to understand. Ivr built
MANY motors over the years and have used aftermarket pistons with good outcomes. If Yammie is the best, thats what Ill go with.
MANY motors over the years and have used aftermarket pistons with good outcomes. If Yammie is the best, thats what Ill go with.
also just purchased 1997 SX700!
I just purchased a 1997 SX-700 it has 3800 miles on it. I'm sure it hasn't been maintained for crap. It's all stock minus ski's and hasn't been run in some time. Compression was on par, and less than 5% variance between cylinders. Daman, you know your triple stuff. I am an ASE HD truck tech, and know nothing of these things with skis. I've read a few FAQ and the other post by daman on the SX's. I def want to get this season started off on the right foot in NYS. I can't avoid the snow so I might as well embrace it! Obviously new fuel, new set of plugs, and checking all the oil and fuel lines I will also be checking this oil line that was mentioned. I'm pulling the carb's tomorrow and cleaning them. I assume a normal carb syncronizer will work on these? I haven't seen if it has any ports to do so. I'm not trying to post jack here, you guys have allot of information on these, and more importantly the know-how to keep them going. I just don't want to suffer a similar fate at less than half the miles. Obviously a little PM goes a long ways. I'm not afraid to read or research any other know issues with the triples would be greatly appreciate. I guess this is something I should have done prior to buying the sled but it was bought at a good price and I knew it would take a triple to have a chance of keeping up with the guys i intend to ride with.
Thanks for your time!@
Matthew
I just purchased a 1997 SX-700 it has 3800 miles on it. I'm sure it hasn't been maintained for crap. It's all stock minus ski's and hasn't been run in some time. Compression was on par, and less than 5% variance between cylinders. Daman, you know your triple stuff. I am an ASE HD truck tech, and know nothing of these things with skis. I've read a few FAQ and the other post by daman on the SX's. I def want to get this season started off on the right foot in NYS. I can't avoid the snow so I might as well embrace it! Obviously new fuel, new set of plugs, and checking all the oil and fuel lines I will also be checking this oil line that was mentioned. I'm pulling the carb's tomorrow and cleaning them. I assume a normal carb syncronizer will work on these? I haven't seen if it has any ports to do so. I'm not trying to post jack here, you guys have allot of information on these, and more importantly the know-how to keep them going. I just don't want to suffer a similar fate at less than half the miles. Obviously a little PM goes a long ways. I'm not afraid to read or research any other know issues with the triples would be greatly appreciate. I guess this is something I should have done prior to buying the sled but it was bought at a good price and I knew it would take a triple to have a chance of keeping up with the guys i intend to ride with.
Thanks for your time!@
Matthew
daman
New member
panteramatt stock yamaha pistons are as good as it gets for a trail sled, they are a powdered metal forging and they dont expand as much or as fast as say a wiseco does,this is because of the metal(aluminum), that means they can run a tighter skirt tolerance to the bore and provide better sealing capabilities,wisecos run a looser tolerance thus more warm up is neded also they do run a thinner ring for less drag BUT will need to be replaced more often then the stock yamahas will the stock yammie ring is thicker holds comp better and keeps the piston more stabil in the boar.
OEM only in a trail stock boar sled,
OEM only in a trail stock boar sled,
just throwing this out there but i had the same problem last year .....its cold seizeing ....i would bet one carb is not letting fuel in to the bowl ....the float needle sticks quite easy with a little varnish ....
I just read this whole post for the first time. 1 mile from home makes me ask 1 thing. How long did you warm the sled up. Cold seize is when you don't warm these motors up enough before ridding. The pistons expand faster than the cylinders and stick. Cold seize has nothing to do with carbs. If you pulled the rope, waited 2 minutes and hammered away, it cold seized, plain and simple. The scratches wn't hurt anything. Call the old owner and see if it has ever had new pistons and rings. Check the bores for out of round. Get oem pistons and rings and put it back together. Maxdlx
panteramatt
New member
Thanx Daman, if you say oem than oem it is. How much is a kit? Wheres the cheapest place to get it? Also maxdlx, if you read back I did let it warm up by idleing about 15 minutes!!! And Ive been trying to look for the original ownwer but cant find his #. Just waiting for the clutch puller so I can get the motor out and check the bottom end. Probally just put new bearings and seals anyway. Oh, and how do I check the carbs to make sure they are performing as they should?
daman
New member
you'll just have to price around,on the web, site sponsers here, your dealer etc.panteramatt said:Thanx Daman, if you say oem than oem it is. How much is a kit? Wheres the cheapest place to get it? Also maxdlx, if you read back I did let it warm up by idleing about 15 minutes!!! And Ive been trying to look for the original ownwer but cant find his #. Just waiting for the clutch puller so I can get the motor out and check the bottom end. Probally just put new bearings and seals anyway. Oh, and how do I check the carbs to make sure they are performing as they should?
yes check it out,new crank seals for sure you may want do wp seals too with that many miles hate to see then leak on ya after your done,i know it cost money but if your in there now is the time.
not much on the carbs issue just clean them good choke circuts too, check floats adjust jetting if you think it needs it, etc,etc.....
also what max said is true,liquid sleds need warm up....