chilli
New member
So, I finally started tearing into the SX. I plan to stuff the most aggressive 121" track in there that I can, while dropping down to 8 tooth drivers.
I got the skid and driveshaft removed, removed all the old bearings (wow, speedo one was nearly ceased).
I never realized that the chain tensioner was spring loaded in these exciters...thats cool!!
Are other exciters like that too? Is this chaincase common to say vmaxes of the same era?
Man how I wish the SRX was as easy to work on as the exciter is...side panels removed is the best thing ever!! lol
I cant believe how freekin heavy the stocvk exhasut is?? wow, thats insane
Pics to come as teardown continues
I got the skid and driveshaft removed, removed all the old bearings (wow, speedo one was nearly ceased).
I never realized that the chain tensioner was spring loaded in these exciters...thats cool!!
Are other exciters like that too? Is this chaincase common to say vmaxes of the same era?
Man how I wish the SRX was as easy to work on as the exciter is...side panels removed is the best thing ever!! lol
I cant believe how freekin heavy the stocvk exhasut is?? wow, thats insane
Pics to come as teardown continues
rx1jim
New member
Hello Chilli,
Good luck with the project. When you reassemble the speedo sid bearing onto the drive shaft, polish the shaft with some 400 grit paper then apply an antisieze compond and put the bearing on. This will make it much easier to remove the bearing later for servicing or replacement. This bearing is easy to service, I remove this bearing on my sleds after every 500 miles to clean and repack it with synthetic grease. With servicing, this bearing will last a long time. The problem with these bearings is that the seals do let water it which washes out the grease and rusts the bearing parts. It is impossible for this seal to keep allthe water out.
Good luck and Happy holidays!!
Good luck with the project. When you reassemble the speedo sid bearing onto the drive shaft, polish the shaft with some 400 grit paper then apply an antisieze compond and put the bearing on. This will make it much easier to remove the bearing later for servicing or replacement. This bearing is easy to service, I remove this bearing on my sleds after every 500 miles to clean and repack it with synthetic grease. With servicing, this bearing will last a long time. The problem with these bearings is that the seals do let water it which washes out the grease and rusts the bearing parts. It is impossible for this seal to keep allthe water out.
Good luck and Happy holidays!!
YAMMIEGOD3:16
Active member
CHILLI, I FOUND A BENDER SINGLE PIPE FOR MINE, 11 POUNDS vs 21 POUNDS FOR STOCK EXHAUST. AND THE BENDER CAN ADDS POWER. GREAT SLED. 3:16 (yammie tony)
chilli
New member
how much you want for it? lol
and who makes the good dual exhaust? is it aeen or psi or?
and who makes the good dual exhaust? is it aeen or psi or?
YAMMIEGOD3:16
Active member
PSI. 3:16 (yammie tony)
chilli
New member
rx1jim said:
I agree, none of those goddam allen key screws to remove on the collar....but then again, those styler seem to be more robust
Ah well, I still prefer this easy to service type
BARON 8BU
New member
There is a PSI single pipe forsale in the classifieds listed by STEERJOCK.
chilli
New member
Phase 2 tonight
Removed heads, cylinders, carbs. Looks like its time for a top end job...its got just over 10,000 km on it, so figure its due since im tearing into it anyways.
Decided to run 7 tooth drivers just for extra peace of mind...should be able to run a 1.75" backcountry track in there...
Thats about it, need to ake an order for top end stuff, drivers should be here monday.
SO, seeing how Im going to 7 tooth, i think I need to re-gear? any thougts?
Removed heads, cylinders, carbs. Looks like its time for a top end job...its got just over 10,000 km on it, so figure its due since im tearing into it anyways.
Decided to run 7 tooth drivers just for extra peace of mind...should be able to run a 1.75" backcountry track in there...
Thats about it, need to ake an order for top end stuff, drivers should be here monday.
SO, seeing how Im going to 7 tooth, i think I need to re-gear? any thougts?
Last edited:
justheman80
New member
I am running 7 tooths with stock gearing and it is a bit too slow for trail riding or flat ground, but not unbareable. I mostly ride boondocking, so the gearing works pretty good for me, as it is nice to have the track speed for climbing.
chilli
New member
well, Im nervous to say that Im OK with giving up the top end speed, so a slight gear change sounds like its in order.
Yes I want the track speed, but also want the lake blasting speed...LOL
It will have to be a nice balance
Yes I want the track speed, but also want the lake blasting speed...LOL
It will have to be a nice balance
chilli
New member
update....
Decided on 7 tooth drivers which are here ready to be installed. Complete top end rebuild parts ordered and hopefully here very soon (fingers crossed coming from usa)
Decided on a track, going with the 1.75" BackCountry from camoplast.
Found a set of gently used C&As like 45 min drive from here, still waiting on reply...GRRR no phone number, email only...i hate that...
Annoyed to see that some idler wheels dont use the common 6205 bearings, but 6004's instead...ah well, chaincase uses 6205s...and I have 7 left from a 10 pack I bought last year
I cant remember having this much fun working on a sled...probably cuz its on MY schedule, not a huge panic as its not my daily driver...
Thats about it
If anyone has a set of black or red (or combo ski/loop) C&A for sale let me know, and also if you see twis psi's anywhere, id appreciate a heads up
Cheers and happy new year
Decided on 7 tooth drivers which are here ready to be installed. Complete top end rebuild parts ordered and hopefully here very soon (fingers crossed coming from usa)
Decided on a track, going with the 1.75" BackCountry from camoplast.
Found a set of gently used C&As like 45 min drive from here, still waiting on reply...GRRR no phone number, email only...i hate that...
Annoyed to see that some idler wheels dont use the common 6205 bearings, but 6004's instead...ah well, chaincase uses 6205s...and I have 7 left from a 10 pack I bought last year
I cant remember having this much fun working on a sled...probably cuz its on MY schedule, not a huge panic as its not my daily driver...
Thats about it
If anyone has a set of black or red (or combo ski/loop) C&A for sale let me know, and also if you see twis psi's anywhere, id appreciate a heads up
Cheers and happy new year
Brit44Aldo
New member
PSI is way better then AAEEN on the Exciter (my opinion). I also never liked the twin pipes. The port timing of the cylinders is all torque. What the twins give you on top by spinning more RPM (in a narrow range) can more then be made up for with upping the gearing. Sure the guy with the twins will win the 600 foot drag, but the engine can not handle the rpm for extended use without adding a harmonic balancer.
chilli
New member
thanks for all the input guys
Working on pics, but not really much to see as just a pule of parts
I completely took apart the suspension, sand nblasted and painted every component, working on polishing up the aluminim a bit...
Top end stuff and track still not here, but thats par for the course when shipping from US to Canada.
Confirmed that there are mounts available for C&A and old pogo style yamahas, so I wont have to chop up my old metal skis to make them work, waiting for an ebay auction to close on a set of black Razors.
7 tooth drivers are installed and alligned perfectly...
Installed a set of black hot grips to replace the oem ones that were still there (and working).
IN total, 8 new 6004 bearings, 2 new 6205 bearings and new speedo bearing.
SO....I only have to clean the carbs and then im out of work until the parts arrive.
Any tips/tricks for these flat side carbs?
I also think Ill need to re-gear, so IM looking for recommendations to get back some of the top end Ill lose by dropping to 7 tooth drivers
Working on pics, but not really much to see as just a pule of parts
I completely took apart the suspension, sand nblasted and painted every component, working on polishing up the aluminim a bit...
Top end stuff and track still not here, but thats par for the course when shipping from US to Canada.
Confirmed that there are mounts available for C&A and old pogo style yamahas, so I wont have to chop up my old metal skis to make them work, waiting for an ebay auction to close on a set of black Razors.
7 tooth drivers are installed and alligned perfectly...
Installed a set of black hot grips to replace the oem ones that were still there (and working).
IN total, 8 new 6004 bearings, 2 new 6205 bearings and new speedo bearing.
SO....I only have to clean the carbs and then im out of work until the parts arrive.
Any tips/tricks for these flat side carbs?
I also think Ill need to re-gear, so IM looking for recommendations to get back some of the top end Ill lose by dropping to 7 tooth drivers
BigMan76
Member
Do a search on this site; there was a post awhile back about the Exciter II and PSI v. Reichard v. Aaen pipes. There was some negativity surrounding twin pipes v. the single too (most thought the single pipe was better). I was able to find a new, old stock, never used single PSI and put it on mine. Love my sled. Has right around 1,400 miles on it (original-found it on ebay and won the auction).
chilli
New member
Is it true that the pipes are specific to just the SX?
Id seen somemposts where they say the pipe for the SX is only for that year, and other pipes wont fit. Then I heard something about working, but using stock y pipe?
Id appreciate some light shed on this too, from those that have done it
Id seen somemposts where they say the pipe for the SX is only for that year, and other pipes wont fit. Then I heard something about working, but using stock y pipe?
Id appreciate some light shed on this too, from those that have done it
motofishsled
New member
exciter pipes
I had exciter!!'s ,rpc and psi pipes were really loud . Then rpc came out with a stealth pipe , very quiet it was a torque pipe made power at 7000 rpm . It required gear change and many clutch and jetting changes . I had many exciter pipes (single pipes ) rpc stealth pipe was the best . I had the second one built so it took some dialing in till it was right . I adapted the can from rpc stealth pipe onto my phazer rpc pipe (to make it quieter ) , it took away a little top end but the midrange is brutal . I see them on ebay here and there .Twin pipes make the most power but mostly up top. My friend had a bender terminator with twins and 44s , my exciter!! would beat it up to top end then the twins and 44s would destroy me . In NY they ticket you for loud pipes so i think the days of loud pipes may be over .
I had exciter!!'s ,rpc and psi pipes were really loud . Then rpc came out with a stealth pipe , very quiet it was a torque pipe made power at 7000 rpm . It required gear change and many clutch and jetting changes . I had many exciter pipes (single pipes ) rpc stealth pipe was the best . I had the second one built so it took some dialing in till it was right . I adapted the can from rpc stealth pipe onto my phazer rpc pipe (to make it quieter ) , it took away a little top end but the midrange is brutal . I see them on ebay here and there .Twin pipes make the most power but mostly up top. My friend had a bender terminator with twins and 44s , my exciter!! would beat it up to top end then the twins and 44s would destroy me . In NY they ticket you for loud pipes so i think the days of loud pipes may be over .
chilli
New member
ok well, i figure the 1st pictures should somewhat make the statement of where I am going with this project, so here goes...
YAMMIEGOD3:16
Active member
I HAVE A BENDER SINGLE ON MY SX, LOVE IT. 3:16 (yammie tony)
Brit44Aldo
New member
Chilli,
Your serious if you want that track. The 570 will pull that no problem.
The SX was Yamaha finaly admiting and fixing the problem with the Exciter applying a few things (clutching) to make it faster then the previous years (my opinion)
Pogo sticks are for people who want a plush, touring ride.
38VM carbs caused Exciters to seize at trail speeds.
in 91 Yamaha understood the problem and upgraded the suspension.
Pogo sticks still suck if your not touring.
96 XT ( the 2nd sled that was never ment to be srx500 ) proves this.
The EX570 is one of Yamaha's best twins ever built.
Work within the limitations of the chassie and you can do anything.
Your serious if you want that track. The 570 will pull that no problem.
The SX was Yamaha finaly admiting and fixing the problem with the Exciter applying a few things (clutching) to make it faster then the previous years (my opinion)
Pogo sticks are for people who want a plush, touring ride.
38VM carbs caused Exciters to seize at trail speeds.
in 91 Yamaha understood the problem and upgraded the suspension.
Pogo sticks still suck if your not touring.
96 XT ( the 2nd sled that was never ment to be srx500 ) proves this.
The EX570 is one of Yamaha's best twins ever built.
Work within the limitations of the chassie and you can do anything.