Help testing TORS switches.....

sockeyerun

sockeyerun

Test Dummy
Joined
May 1, 2003
Messages
593
Age
65
Location
Anchorage,AK
Just wanted to make sure I was doing this right, I basically know nothing about testing electrical problems :eek: . Last year I started to have some issues that have carried over to this year, I have figured it out that there's a problem with the TORS system on my '02 700M. Everything else is clean , and adjusted properly, I'm one of those guys that uses lots of air, juice, magnifying glass to make sure all passages are clear. I have even tried to set the idles as loose as it goes with out stopping from opening fully, no difference. I have intermitent idle hang, and it falls on it's face when your come to a tight turn and let off the gas and try to give it any gas at all. I have found that when I unplug the TORS the sled runs perfect. Running my sled without TORS is unexceptable. So I've spent a couple hours searching TY on this subject and have since tested the switches for continuity and found that the wires on throttle side show a reading (3.7 I think), and when I open the throttle, the numbers fall to zero. But on the carb side I am not getting a reading at all open or closed. Is this telling me the switch is bad on the carb side? Thanks, Soc
 
sockeyerun said:
Just wanted to make sure I was doing this right, I basically know nothing about testing electrical problems :eek: . Last year I started to have some issues that have carried over to this year, I have figured it out that there's a problem with the TORS system on my '02 700M. Everything else is clean , and adjusted properly, I'm one of those guys that uses lots of air, juice, magnifying glass to make sure all passages are clear. I have even tried to set the idles as loose as it goes with out stopping from opening fully, no difference. I have intermitent idle hang, and it falls on it's face when your come to a tight turn and let off the gas and try to give it any gas at all. I have found that when I unplug the TORS the sled runs perfect. Running my sled without TORS is unexceptable. So I've spent a couple hours searching TY on this subject and have since tested the switches for continuity and found that the wires on throttle side show a reading (3.7 I think), and when I open the throttle, the numbers fall to zero. But on the carb side I am not getting a reading at all open or closed. Is this telling me the switch is bad on the carb side? Thanks, Soc
Click to expand...

if the carb switch isn't showing open or closed, what is it showing?... it's got to be telling you something...

each of these switches have two states, (OPEN=infinity ohms) or (CLOSED=very near zero ohms)..

1) the throttle lever switch, at rest, should show OPEN... as soon as you grab the throttle lever and the pivot action happens at the throttle lever, this switch should change state to CLOSED..... grabbing and completely releasing the throttle lever several times should duplicate these results of the switch states.. (there should be no hang-up of state)..

2) the carb switch on the carb rack should be CLOSED when at rest (when all cable tension is released like at idle)... same switch should show OPEN when throttle is advanced off idle (when grabbing rack linkage and opening carbs)...... completely opening and closing carbs with one hand should show repeatability of these switch states on several operations without hang-up...

NOW..

OFTEN, ensuring Throttle Cable FREE PLAY Adjustment is set to spec, most TORS malfunctions are eliminated... your owners manual shows how to set this.. you don't need the shop manual...

the design of the TORS system is such that either one of those two switches, MUST be CLOSED, at any given moment... this ensures safe riding conditions with no frozen carb linkages or cables... great idea to get it working rather than bypassing since riding in deep snow frequently lends itself to these freeze up kind of conditions... tj
 
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just one more thought... both switches, when CLOSED, supply a chassis ground to the CDI for operation, be sure chassis ground source is present for each switch... tj..
 
Your dealing with someone who basically an idiot when it comes to this electrical stuff. When I hook the leads from the meter to each side of the wires coming from the throttle side I get a reading of 3.7, but as soon as I touch the throttle the numbers drop to zero. So this is telling me the throttle switch is working, isn't this correct? I'm getting no reading on the carb switch, open or closed. So, doesn't that tell me that the carb side switch is defective? As far as the ground, I have not changed any of the wiring, so I would think it's fine. Thanks
 
Sounds like the switch on the carb rack is junk,replace. there just simple switches that break or connect the circuit.
 
carb rack switch should show change of state when opening and closing the rack with one hand... assuming of course all cable tension is released, and/or throttle free play had been adjusted correctly.... ie. A TIGHT CABLE ADJUSTMENT WILL MAKE THE CARB SWITCH APPEAR FAULTY AND PRODUCE TORS OPERATION...

if above conditions have been met, then, it does appear that carb switch is not working since you are getting no change of contact state from the switch...

I am wondering what the "3.7" is for the other switch however, is that 3.7 Megohms?.. tj
 
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TORS update...

That was it ;)! TJ, when I was testing I had the dial set at 20k , was this correct? The carb rack switch had no reading on or off. I have since replaced the switch and the sled works fine now. The new switch tested at 1. on, push the button and it goes to 000 on the same 20k. Thanks for the help guys, Soc
 
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