Go easy on me, here's what I did...

mod-it

mod-it

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Nov 15, 2006
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Location
Lewiston, ID
Cleaned my carbs, wouldn't idle without choke on. Bunch of crud in pilots, got everything clean and put it back together. Rotated the primary for a while and then went to pulling. About ten pulls and it lights up, let it warm up, turn off the choke. Purrs like a kitten with no choke now, so I'm thinking I'm good to go...then I notice that there is anti-freeze pouring out from under the belly pan. Long story short, forgot to hook the carb heater line on the exhaust side back up. So, I re-fill the bottle with water/anti-freeze, drag it up onto the trailer so the front end is way above the back, and fire it up again. Left the cap off, saw a few air bubbles but not a lot. Heat exchangers under the foot rails and in the back all got warm, but didn't ever get any anti-freeze to come out of the bleeder by the carb heater knob. Removed the bottom one and the top one, not sure which is the bleeder. Anyway, what do you guys think? I'm thinking its a good sign that the heat exchangers got warm, but why no anti-freeze at the carb heaters? Don't think it could be air bound if the exchangers got warm...
 
mod-it said:
so I'm thinking I'm good to go...then I notice that there is anti-freeze pouring out from under the belly pan. Long story short, forgot to hook the carb heater line on the exhaust side back up.
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at least i dont feel so bad now............... i thought i was the only one that ever did this :rofl:.
 
I'm thinking its a good sign that the heat exchangers got warm, but why no anti-freeze at the carb heaters?


This seem to be the ? of the week. I had the same problem. Best i could come up with is that you have to pull the knob out a little after you remove the screw. I tried this but couldnt get it to move and gave up as i didnt want to break anything. Hopefully someone has the answer. Either its supposed to come out just by removing screw or i need to pull harder on the knob.
 
s fortuna said:
you need to fill it at the cap , not the tank
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You lost me, what do you mean??? These aren't like a car with a radiator cap and an overflow bottle...
 
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you bleed the system by raising the rear, not the front. or in your case with a mtn sled, track flat on the ground. i bet you still got air pockets. if there is no bleed screw under that rubber cap on the tunnel extension, take the left hose cover off and loosen the hose clamp and slide a small pick or small flat screwdriver between the hose and the fitting and see if coolant come out, or air. system cold, not hot. fill until coolant come out at the pick site. air will naturally rise in the system and these point being the highest will bleed off totally. by you raising the front, all the coolant is already there and the air stays at the rear, essentially blocking or airlocking the coolant flow.
 
if you raise the front and run it with the cap off the tank the air should makes its way to the high point which is now your tank. I too cannot ever get anything to bleed from the screw at the carb heater knob. I hear something about pulling it out a bit but have yet the balls to try.
 
I think the screw by the heater knob is just there to hold the knob in. Just bleed it at the rear of sled then fill it to full then check the level after the first few rides. Bring a small bottle of coolant with you.
 
I'm going to try one more time today, but I'm not too nervous since my heat exchangers are all getting warm. My carb heater knob turns really hard, have to use a rag and channel locks to get it to rotate, perhaps that's why nothing comes out the bleeder hole. I'll try moving the knob and getting it to "pull out of the rail slightly" and see what happens. Thanks, guys.
 
Just went out to start on it again, and noticed that my coolant level is down about 3" from where I had left it. After my last attempt, I had ran it with the cap on to let it build up some pressure. Apparently after I shut it off and walked away ( I had left it with the front end higher than the back), the pressure pushed the air out and thus drank down some of the coolant. Going to go out and see if I can get some coolant out of the carb heater bleeder now.
 
mod-it said:
I'm going to try one more time today, but I'm not too nervous since my heat exchangers are all getting warm. My carb heater knob turns really hard, have to use a rag and channel locks to get it to rotate, perhaps that's why nothing comes out the bleeder hole. I'll try moving the knob and getting it to "pull out of the rail slightly" and see what happens. Thanks, guys.
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Post back on the carb knob. I'm curious to see what happend.
 
I went out and tried again, still no coolant out of the top bleeder screw on the carb heaters. The carb heater knob doesn't even begin to pull out, the bottom bolt must be what holds it in? Anyway, with the exchangers all getting warm, I'm just going to go out and ride it close to the unloading area for a while to make sure the temp light doesn't come on. There can't be an air trap, otherwise there wouldn't be any flow. If it does come on, I'm just going to bleed it from the back, like I've done with every other sled I've had.
 
snowdad4 said:
you bleed the system by raising the rear, not the front. or in your case with a mtn sled, track flat on the ground. i bet you still got air pockets. if there is no bleed screw under that rubber cap on the tunnel extension, take the left hose cover off and loosen the hose clamp and slide a small pick or small flat screwdriver between the hose and the fitting and see if coolant come out, or air. system cold, not hot. fill until coolant come out at the pick site. air will naturally rise in the system and these point being the highest will bleed off totally. by you raising the front, all the coolant is already there and the air stays at the rear, essentially blocking or airlocking the coolant flow.
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What snowdad has said. The rear of the machine needs to be up to bleed the system. You will get coolant coming from the bleeder screw when the air is gone. Ride the machine after and check level to make sure it is good. Add more coolant if the system is low.... :letitsnow
 
THE SCREW TO TURN ON THE CARB HEATERS, IS NOT A BLEEDER SCREW!!!!!! that screw only holds in the knob. the knob is a pita to get out, as the orings hold it in there very well. leave knob alone. the only bleeder screw is on the rear of the sled, on the coolant rail.
 
Yamaha service manuals clearly states that is a bleed bolt hole on the water rail(viper/SRX),most time tho you need to have the knob in the "on" position and/or pull the knob out some so coolant can get to the hole,dont know why that is but it's how it is,,,clearly written.

ther has to be a bleed hole in the head area or you could not bleed the air out.
 
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i don't care what the manual says....that coolant rail "bleed hole" is useless. only use the bleed screw on the rear coolant rail, under the rear of the seat.
 
so you know more then yamaha engineers?


yes i agree it's PITA but it's there to be used with some effort,i've bleed them through there many times,you can't get a proper first time bleeding from just the rear, the head, cyls will have trapped air,having it just raised in the rear will not get the air in the head out,i'll do it yammies way....

wile your at it one can pull the knob(if coolant's down enough) clean the corrosion up and pop it back in.
 
never had bleeding issues, with using just the rear cooler bleeder. you do what you want, and i'll do it the way i want. never said that i knew more than the yamaha engineers.
 
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