track clearence

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camoman

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I have a 2002 Viper and want to install a 1.25" ripsaw with picks. There are no tunnel or front heat exchanger protectors do I need any?

Thanks!
 
I am nto sure what is suppose to be on the front exchanger as it never had one. Can I get somthing from a yamaha dealer? I assume it would need to be welded in?
 
So from what I gather from reading the frot was welded on and the top was riveted simiarl to my attak..

Maybe not worth going to studs for the work of trying to get protectors and welding them back on??
 
Would these from a 98-2002 SRX work on a 2002 Viper?
 

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camoman said:
Would these from a 98-2002 SRX work on a 2002 Viper?
Click to expand...


They should work, I think the drive shaft will have to be removed to attach the top rivets on the front protectors (I don't think they're welded), but if you have the track out along with the drive shaft it shoud be easy to drill and rivet.

With your 1-1/4" track the lugs will rub against the front protectors. You can let them ware away or clip the lugs where they contact.
 
Had a look and the old protectors were definitely welded on.. there doesn't look to be much clearance under the front cooler to attach anything its almost flush with the belly pan. Looks like the top was riveted and the bottom welded.

Any issue riveting the tunnel protectors on from under nieth or should I be removing the seat and gas tank and going top down?
 
camoman said:
Had a look and the old protectors were definitely welded on.. there doesn't look to be much clearance under the front cooler to attach anything its almost flush with the belly pan. Looks like the top was riveted and the bottom welded.

Any issue riveting the tunnel protectors on from under nieth or should I be removing the seat and gas tank and going top down?
Click to expand...


I went out and looked at my sled and can't see how the bottom (front) is attached as my added skid plate covers the attachement points. They look like steel and I can't see they would weld the steel protector to an aluminum tunnel but I'll defer to your observations. I think the point at which the lower is riveted/welded is behind the HX so I would hold it in place, mark the holes and drill SLOWLY/LIGHTLY to avoid posible contact with the backside of the HX. As for the top, look for predrilled holes and rivet from either side. From the bottom may be easier if the driveshaft isn't in the way. Riveting from the top would require another hand to hold the protector tight against the tunnel while riveting. Just make sure the protruding backside of the rivet doesn't have any issues with contact.


Sounds like someone removed them to allow for clearance of the 1-1/4" track. As I said earlier, you'll need to notch/cut the track where they contact the protector which means the studs will end up even closer to the HX so watch your track tention. You may have to run it a bit tighter then desired. Balooning (especially under decel) can be reduced with tighter track tention but you'll lose a bit of top end under certain conditions but the added traction on ice would make it a wash.

From what I've read and contact I've seen with my 1" lug and 1.075" studs, I think you're going to have some issues with contact. Will it be enough is the big question. I think most who go to a larger than 1" track are going to smaller drivers.
 
Running picks on a 1.25 track you will need to go to 8 tooth drivers. There is not enough room for picks and the exchanger. I have pick marks on my exchanger with a 1" track.
 
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