Seems like I'm darting after I installed new carbides this summer.
Checked toe in. Had about 5mm,with bungee.
I thought by looking at my books that I could just open(loosen) the upper control rods to correct to toe in to toe out.
Camber would change i know but I wanted to go one step at a time,did not seem like opening the upper rods increased the toe out so I went back to the original settings.
Was I thinking wrong?
Also,I have my front shocks set at just about max pre-load by the book and the bottom four coils are compressed tight, so are the springs shot?
thx in advance
Checked toe in. Had about 5mm,with bungee.
I thought by looking at my books that I could just open(loosen) the upper control rods to correct to toe in to toe out.
Camber would change i know but I wanted to go one step at a time,did not seem like opening the upper rods increased the toe out so I went back to the original settings.
Was I thinking wrong?
Also,I have my front shocks set at just about max pre-load by the book and the bottom four coils are compressed tight, so are the springs shot?
thx in advance
OnDaTrail
New member
I had darting and tried the shim wedge under the skis, it didn't help. What did help was studding the track.
livewire_101proof
Member
Easiest way i found for setup is to take off the skis and run a bar straight through both spindles. the only way it will do it is if everything is dead center. then i cambered the bottom out just a hair before tightening everything up, i also toed out the skis about 1/4" from front to back but that may change a little depending on how each person likes the machine to handle.
Your limiter strap in the rear suspension may effect this too, shorten it up will give more ski pressure, lengthen it will take away, too much pressure will dig in too much, not enough ski pressure will push in the corners because it will like to lift the ski's.
If the darting is from other peoples carbide marks then you may want to try dually carbides, bit expensive but wear really good and make a big diffrence in darting.
not sure what ondatrail is talking about with the shims, unles i have done diffrent rubber ski mounts in the saddle, or shimm the back of them but all that has ever done for me is make the carbides wear a little more even instead of eating off the front edge, as a result gets a little more life out of the bars. Im guessing why studding helped him is cause he had too much ski pressure for a nonstudded machine. good luck
P.S. just remembered, may want to check the bushings in the skis where the bolt goes through, i go through alot of them. If they are wore out you will be able to shake the ski and have a little play in where it is bolted to the spindle when the sled is jacked up in the air.
Your limiter strap in the rear suspension may effect this too, shorten it up will give more ski pressure, lengthen it will take away, too much pressure will dig in too much, not enough ski pressure will push in the corners because it will like to lift the ski's.
If the darting is from other peoples carbide marks then you may want to try dually carbides, bit expensive but wear really good and make a big diffrence in darting.
not sure what ondatrail is talking about with the shims, unles i have done diffrent rubber ski mounts in the saddle, or shimm the back of them but all that has ever done for me is make the carbides wear a little more even instead of eating off the front edge, as a result gets a little more life out of the bars. Im guessing why studding helped him is cause he had too much ski pressure for a nonstudded machine. good luck
P.S. just remembered, may want to check the bushings in the skis where the bolt goes through, i go through alot of them. If they are wore out you will be able to shake the ski and have a little play in where it is bolted to the spindle when the sled is jacked up in the air.
Last edited:
OnDaTrail
New member
I read here that one problem with my sled was too much pressure on hte front of the ski (a forward bias). A wedge shim under the rubber block transferred pressure to the back of the ski. There was a big write up about it and one vendor was selling the shims. I think about 3 years ago.
"not sure what ondatrail is talking about with the shims,"
"not sure what ondatrail is talking about with the shims,"
On my viper I had a pair of C&A pro Adv skis with 6" shaper bars and berstrom ski savers. The sled did not dart at all. I also had the shim kit on the skis too.
Thanks you guys,this am got my skis toed out about a quarter inch(pia) and went for a ride,didn't help in the trails because there is ice below our shallow snow cover with frozen runner tracks,but helped a lot in the fields. Feels ok.
Dual carbons,yes that might be the ticket to help out with all the ice crap we get.
Dual carbons,yes that might be the ticket to help out with all the ice crap we get.