iqr skid in viper problems

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xviperx7

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Oct 26, 2008
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i bought this skid in the spring of last year and just got to installing it the guy said draw a line 8 1/2 back from the flat of the driveshaft and you can drill the holes anywhere on that line well thats what i did but the front arm has handle like things that are digging into the track after install.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/05-IQ-POLARIS-440-COMPLETE-REAR-SUSPENSION-WALKER EVAN_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem53deee5aaeQQitemZ360222448302QQptZSnowmobileQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

heres a link with some pics incase your unsure what im talking about.
 
You draw a line 8.5" back from the driveshaft, more specifically an arc with an 8.5" radius, then depending on what you want for ride height you can move the skid up and down that line. You can put it anywhere on this line, but within reason obviously. In a nutshell, you can mount the skid at different heights depending on what you want for a ride height. Sounds like you put the front of the skid up too high and the "handle things" you talk about are rubbing the track? You want the top of the drivers above the front skid arm so that they carry the track above everything. Sounds like you might have to lower your skid some.
 
This is in no way meant to discredit or bash RTYsxV, but I dont like the Idea of establishing skid mounting points based on the front mounting point.
The hieght of the front mounting point,considerably effects ski pressure. We all know how much moving the limiter strap up and down a 1/2" makes on ski pressure, its the same principal.
When I did my Cat skid,I worked off a base line drawn from the center line of the Driveaxle to the center line of the rear suspension mounting bolt(from donor sled), and pulled the front mounting point dimensions off this line. One critical point,is being sure that your rear mounting bolt is atleast the same dimension or slightly more down from the top of the tunnel. This will ensure that when the suspension is completely colapsed, it has ample clearence from the top of your tunnel.
There is a link in my signature below to give you an idea of what I did.

Remember, all the dimensions have to come from the donor sled that your new suspension came from.
Good luck with getting this figured out, theres snow out there waiting to be pounded!! lol
Sno
 
Sno-Xr said:
This is in no way meant to discredit or bash RTYsxV, but I dont like the Idea of establishing skid mounting points based on the front mounting point.
The hieght of the front mounting point,considerably effects ski pressure. We all know how much moving the limiter strap up and down a 1/2" makes on ski pressure, its the same principal.
When I did my Cat skid,I worked off a base line drawn from the center line of the Driveaxle to the center line of the rear suspension mounting bolt(from donor sled), and pulled the front mounting point dimensions off this line. One critical point,is being sure that your rear mounting bolt is atleast the same dimension or slightly more down from the top of the tunnel. This will ensure that when the suspension is completely colapsed, it has ample clearence from the top of your tunnel.
There is a link in my signature below to give you an idea of what I did.

Remember, all the dimensions have to come from the donor sled that your new suspension came from.
Good luck with getting this figured out, theres snow out there waiting to be pounded!! lol
Sno
Click to expand...

No offense taken Sno-Xr. I did it with the help of TY member ahicks on the 4-stroke side. The concept is that you should maintain the 8.5" dimension from the driveshaft to the front mounting point, but you can move the skid up and down for different ride heights. I didn't have a donor sled to take measurements from. But as you move the front of the skid up and down, obviously the rear needs to move proportionally. Done this way, the skid stays level to the ground and there is no limiter strap-like effect.

When I did my Apex skid swap about a month ago, I did it a simpler way. All I did was block up the sled to the ride height I wanted, put the skid inside the track, and then pulled the skid rearward with an ATV winch to take out most of the slack in the track. I marked and drilled the holes, and that was it. Worked perfectly. Obviously I checked to make sure nothing was going to rub or hit under compression. And you need to pay attention to what you're doing with the winch so you can still adjust the track to proper tension. But it was easy and simple that way. 300 rough miles later and I couldn't be happier with it.
 
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Good deal. I just wanted to be sure he understood the corilation between the front and rear mounting positions.
The biggest concern I have with how you did yours is, when a suspension isnt bolted in a chasiss, it will not hold the correct bolt pattern as when it is in a sled.
What I mean is, anyone who has installed a rear suspension knows that once you line up one suspension arm, the other arm needs some persuasion to get it to line up.
So this tells you that your mounting holes center to center may be incorrect,and may cause extra stress when the suspension travels through its range.
I know you have had good luck with yours so far, but you may find a sled that has your skid in it, and measure the C to C to be sure your close.
 
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On the Apex swap I did have donor sled measurements. And the skid did hold the right bolt pattern as it sat - I checked that out ahead of time.
 
dropped the front raised the back mad new brackets and got it to work the suspension rides great couldnt ask for a better sled now :letitsnow
 
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