sagerider
New member
Went to take off the sway bar on 01 MM 700, drilled and popped the three rivets and then... wait a minute, isn't there a fourth rivet? Oh yeah, under the clutch in a tight little bas***d corner on PTO side and completely invisibile on Mag side.
Is there a special trick for this, before I break out the torch?
Thanks
Is there a special trick for this, before I break out the torch?
Thanks
YooperMike
New member
Just torch it off, you'll be glad you did. Fill the holes with silicone or plates.
sagerider
New member
Torch it off and then poke the stub into the tub? or will it come out once both sides are torched off?
Thanks Yoopermike
Thanks Yoopermike
Mysledblows
VIP Member
I cut mine on each side with the cut off wheel and then pushed the middle out one side. Little silicone in the holes and good to go for years now.
sagerider
New member
Thanks to all...
mtsled
New member
I cut mine from both sides with metal sawzall blades (about 5 high quality expensive ones). It is wicked tough metal. I would try the torch next time. The only reason I didn't do the torch the first time is I was worried about the bar transferring too much heat to other parts of the sled. But really the rubber bushing smoking would probably be it and with no sway bar.... who need stinkin bushings? A plasma cutter would be the whip.
sagerider
New member
Cheap 4" cutting wheel whipped through it (and a little bit of tub, sadly). Put a block under the opposite side ski and yanked 'er out. No biggie... thanks again.
RE: Torch... I work a lot with a torch, and due to close proximity of a lot of rubber and plastic decided against it. All my tips run way too hot. Took about 90 seconds with the cut off wheel.
RE: Torch... I work a lot with a torch, and due to close proximity of a lot of rubber and plastic decided against it. All my tips run way too hot. Took about 90 seconds with the cut off wheel.
Can someone explain to me why you guys take it off, both of my cousins did the same on a Doo and Poo.....
MNpowderfiend
New member
cut it
yup, good sawsall blade did well on mine.
Eric
yup, good sawsall blade did well on mine.
Eric
Apher
New member
Coles_55 said:Can someone explain to me why you guys take it off, both of my cousins did the same on a Doo and Poo.....
It lets you side hill and carve better. But it does hinder the fast trail riding.
livewire_101proof
Member
how much disadvantage to hard trailriding, and how much gain carving and side hilling. i would like mine to carve better but i do alot of high speed trail riding/mogule pounding so i think it may not be worth it for me, depens how much of a change it is, i would guess alot though. have also seen people with the links on the end flipped over so it repositioned the swaybar height, is there any effect here or just someone put it back together wrong after having them apart?
hereismylife
Active member
how much disadvantage to hard trailriding, and how much gain carving and side hilling. i would like mine to carve better but i do alot of high speed trail riding/mogule pounding so i think it may not be worth it for me, depens how much of a change it is, i would guess alot though. have also seen people with the links on the end flipped over so it repositioned the swaybar height, is there any effect here or just someone put it back together wrong after having them apart?
Anyone have any input on this?
Anyone have any input on this?
Which part, the handling or the flipped linkage? The non committal way to see if the lack of a swaybar suits your needs is to simply unbolt one side at the dogbone and secure the loose end with a zip tie or tape. Ride the sled and see how it feels.
hereismylife
Active member
You could do that but mountain sleds don't have the sway bar to see the difference. .lol
Which part, the handling or the flipped linkage? The non committal way to see if the lack of a swaybar suits your needs is to simply unbolt one side at the dogbone and secure the loose end with a zip tie or tape. Ride the sled and see how it feels.