Removing sway bar 01 MM 700

sagerider

sagerider

New member
Joined
Feb 7, 2009
Messages
67
Age
51
Location
Eastern Oregon
Went to take off the sway bar on 01 MM 700, drilled and popped the three rivets and then... wait a minute, isn't there a fourth rivet? Oh yeah, under the clutch in a tight little bas***d corner on PTO side and completely invisibile on Mag side.

Is there a special trick for this, before I break out the torch?

Thanks
 
Torch it off and then poke the stub into the tub? or will it come out once both sides are torched off?

Thanks Yoopermike
 
I cut mine from both sides with metal sawzall blades (about 5 high quality expensive ones). It is wicked tough metal. I would try the torch next time. The only reason I didn't do the torch the first time is I was worried about the bar transferring too much heat to other parts of the sled. But really the rubber bushing smoking would probably be it and with no sway bar.... who need stinkin bushings? A plasma cutter would be the whip.
 
Cheap 4" cutting wheel whipped through it (and a little bit of tub, sadly). Put a block under the opposite side ski and yanked 'er out. No biggie... thanks again.

RE: Torch... I work a lot with a torch, and due to close proximity of a lot of rubber and plastic decided against it. All my tips run way too hot. Took about 90 seconds with the cut off wheel.
 
Can someone explain to me why you guys take it off, both of my cousins did the same on a Doo and Poo.....
 
how much disadvantage to hard trailriding, and how much gain carving and side hilling. i would like mine to carve better but i do alot of high speed trail riding/mogule pounding so i think it may not be worth it for me, depens how much of a change it is, i would guess alot though. have also seen people with the links on the end flipped over so it repositioned the swaybar height, is there any effect here or just someone put it back together wrong after having them apart?
 
livewire_101proof said:
how much disadvantage to hard trailriding, and how much gain carving and side hilling. i would like mine to carve better but i do alot of high speed trail riding/mogule pounding so i think it may not be worth it for me, depens how much of a change it is, i would guess alot though. have also seen people with the links on the end flipped over so it repositioned the swaybar height, is there any effect here or just someone put it back together wrong after having them apart?
Click to expand...

Anyone have any input on this?
 
hereismylife said:
Anyone have any input on this?
Click to expand...

Which part, the handling or the flipped linkage? The non committal way to see if the lack of a swaybar suits your needs is to simply unbolt one side at the dogbone and secure the loose end with a zip tie or tape. Ride the sled and see how it feels.
 
You could do that but mountain sleds don't have the sway bar to see the difference. .lol

black dog said:
Which part, the handling or the flipped linkage? The non committal way to see if the lack of a swaybar suits your needs is to simply unbolt one side at the dogbone and secure the loose end with a zip tie or tape. Ride the sled and see how it feels.
Click to expand...
 
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