Heating knob ON or OFF?

sdahm

sdahm

New member
Joined
Oct 18, 2009
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68
Age
33
Location
Wisconsin
I know that all vipers have a problem with the temp light coming on, and was wondering if i should switch my heating knob to the off position. My light comes on about twice a night when im on about a 50 mile trip. So I just pack snow on the running boards and drive in some powder and its fine. Can I just leave the knob off and not worry about this, or will it be too cold for the engine? (it was in the teens last night and it did it)
 
Most people leave it off unless it gets real cold. This will have no effect on your overheating problem. Check to see if you have a rear heat exchanger or just a crossover pipe. Vipers are known to have an overheating problem when driving in low snow conditions. This is usually corrected with a heat exchanger from a SRX.You can also use ice scratchers to help. Other things to check is that the coolant is good and no air in the system.
 
I've only got the crossover pipe. What would you consider real cold? There is a shop up the road from me that works on snowmobiles where i always take mine, and i asked him about a cooler and he said he put one on a viper and it still does the same thing, so i'm not sure if i'd want to spend another $100 for one. What effect does the knob have on my engine then when its on or off?
 
sdahm said:
I've only got the crossover pipe. What would you consider real cold? There is a shop up the road from me that works on snowmobiles where i always take mine, and i asked him about a cooler and he said he put one on a viper and it still does the same thing, so i'm not sure if i'd want to spend another $100 for one. What effect does the knob have on my engine then when its on or off?
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I would consider anything below -22f real cold :brr
If the cooler did not fix the other Viper there is another issue. I have the SRX cooler and have never had the temp light come on on my Viper.I do not have ice scratchers but I do run picks.
 
I strongly suggest you get the rear cooler update,makes all the difference in the world for over heating.

your carb heater valve only needs to be ON when it's very cold OR your busten powder.
 
i'm really considering getting to cooler now because i just put on 100 miles and it overheated almost 6 times, while occasionally going in powder. had to run in powder until it turned off each time. If u guys see a cheap one out there i'd appreciate it if you'd let me know. i'll start looking.
 
If you are running a belly pan protector(skid plate)and it goes right back to the frt heat exchanger it will cause it to overheat.When it overheats next time flip the sled over and there will be a wall of ice between the track and the frt exchanger.This will happen even in good conditions.The fix is to trim the back of the skid plate.Cut at least 2 inches off of it.My nephews Viper would overheat worse on real cold days and good conditions until we trimmed the 2 inches off.Neither of us had the rear exchanger on our sleds and never really had any problems unless it had been mild and then froze up tight.
 
Yes I am running a skid plate. That makes sense that it would do that, but by doing that it only exposes a little bit more metal. Those two inches make that much of a difference? How did you cut it while it was mounted
 
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