Took my sled for maiden voyage last night in the field. Wasnt going fast at all, just trying to get the new belt warm and broken in. Drove around for about 1/2-45mins and noticed the coolant light just flicker on once(didnt seem to be a flash to me) Drove around some more and it started to flicker more often. Decided to head home and re-check coolant tomorrow(today). Before the sled ever hit the snow I bled the coolant system because I had cleaned the carbs. Got plenty of coolant from the rear bleed screw, but I couldnt seem to get any from the one on the rail. Fast forward to today, I checked the coolant tank and there was plenty of coolant in there. Let the sled warm up to where the rear heat exchanger was warm, then removed the bleed screw on the rail again thinking there might still be some trapped air.....and nothing. Let the sled warm up some more and took the screw completly out, still nothing. The valve on the rail that lets coolant run thru the carbs was in the ON position.
Any ideas why no coolant from the bleed screw? Does it sound like the sled was getting hot? or maybe the wiring is bad to the coolant temp sensor?.
Was running the sled in powder the whole time.
Thanks guys.
Any ideas why no coolant from the bleed screw? Does it sound like the sled was getting hot? or maybe the wiring is bad to the coolant temp sensor?.
Was running the sled in powder the whole time.
Thanks guys.
The bleed screw holds the carb heater switch in place. After the screw is removed try pulling the carb heater switch out slightly. Not too much or you will have coolant everywhere. The switch actually blocks the pasage way to the bleed screw.
daman
New member
^^^what he said....rz500 said:
If that does not work, try this. Remove the rad cap.
With a flat pair of pliers remove the coolant hose at the carb rack on the PTO side and keep it pinched .Let the coolant flow thru the carbs til there's no air and install the coolant line again. Install rad cap.
With a flat pair of pliers remove the coolant hose at the carb rack on the PTO side and keep it pinched .Let the coolant flow thru the carbs til there's no air and install the coolant line again. Install rad cap.
Thanks guys for all the tips, I was just sitting here doing nothing and having my sled sitting outside possibly broken is just something i cant sleep over. Got bundled up again and started it up to move it in the garage and got the "Discontinuity or shorting of the water tempature sensor is detected" fault code. Going back down in the garage now to see what the problem is, prob a broken wire.
Ok so, unplugged the harness off the water temp sensor. Tested for continuity from the connector on the sensor to the other connector on the CDI, tested good. Ground tested good on the connector also. Thinking that leaves only the water temp sensor to be bad. Anyone know how to test it? Yamaha repair manual says if theres any doubt if the part is good, replace it.
if you have a thermometer take its temp.....i got a digital guage on mine and runs 130 is the most i have seen ....
no1chevyboy
New member
to test sensor you need a thermometer and multimeter set to continuity one clip to sensor wire one too sensor body( on one wire sensor ) then heat sensor and watch reading you can do it on a stove in a pan and watch temp on thermometer and ohms on multimeter, should read nothing cold and ?ohms hot( basic idiot light sensor off cold on hot)
daman
New member
try these tests....
no1chevyboy
New member
there you go daman has it for non basic multi use two wire cdi controlled light