Help Please.....

now I see what you are talking about.That's certainly not the track tensioner bolt,it is in the rear between track windows.This problem you have has happened to me exactly 2 summers ago.You had a wrench on both ends did you? You took cotter pin off from shaft on the left end also.Did you force the right hand bolt off????
 
bluemonster1 said:
now I see what you are talking about.That's certainly not the track tensioner bolt,it is in the rear between track windows.This problem you have has happened to me exactly 2 summers ago.You had a wrench on both ends did you? You took cotter pin off from shaft on the left end also.Did you force the right hand bolt off????
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no , not the track tensioner bolt....and yes I had sockets on both sides....as for forcing the bolt off, not really sure about that but did turn it alot I think and it was hard to turn from what I remember......so what do I do know??
 
you have the problem I had exactly 2 summers ago.Loosened my LHS axle nut and loosened track for summer storage.Come fall time tightened track back and started to tighten axle nut.With socket and wrench in each end I started to do so,but the LHS nut wasn't turning easily.I say WTF!!. I continued force tightening it,was not going easy at all and all of a sudden the bolt on the same end yours broke...broke off for me and now I was pissed.Couldn`t figure out why this happened at all. I never ever had a problem with the axle nut before.So I was stuck and found another axle from a TY member on here and had to replace it.
It involves a little work,first time did not go good for me.Loosening track all the way I slide axle out,of course all the washers and spacers and wheels all fall down.You have to keep track of them parts and the order they go back.I had a hell of a time even trying to get the new axle in slowly as I slide washers,spacers and wheels on.The words where flying.It takes patience and practice.Now I can do it with my eyes closed basically,but there is a trick to it all.Find a new axle first and mark all your pieces in order and when time is right to install..come back on here and ask for help.
 
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now that looks right,what size are them bolts Dice? is one a 19mm and one a 17mm??




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daman said:
yep...
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not sure sizes off hand...so what exactly happened?.. did I break that bolt then?..so I need a new back axle?...to replace it do I need to take out the whole suspension or can it be done without taking whole suspension out?....Thanks for all your guys help tonight..Great bunch of guys...Diceman
 
ya know i always thought it was one pice,WTH maybe not? can you thread that bolt back in and tightn it down?

i never seen that before or had that happen....
 
Had this happen to me this year when I changed my rear idlers. The problem is this.... Yamaha made the rear axle not out of one solid bolt/shaft. They made the axle out of a piece of aluminum or soft white metal and threaded both ends... one end male (left side) and female (right side). Then the put a bolt in the female end and installed a roll pin through the shaft and bolt. What happened to you and I also is we both removed that bolt and In doing so broke that roll pin and took out the threads in the shaft. Proper removal of the right side idler wheel is to remove nut from left side, and slide axle through all the spacers and center wheels. Then remove right idler wheel from axle. Its a stupid design really, but I was able to repair mine with a Tap and new bolt. Don't try and reinstall that bolt as you may ruin it completely. I would recommend buying or using a tap that is slightly larger (I used a standard thread tap not a metric one) and tap the hole in the axle, and install a new bolt with a little bit of blue loctite. Hopefully this helps, if you have any questions let me know as I went through this about a month ago! Pissed me off!
 
96YamVmaxXT said:
Had this happen to me this year when I changed my rear idlers. The problem is this.... Yamaha made the rear axle not out of one solid bolt/shaft. They made the axle out of a piece of aluminum or soft white metal and threaded both ends... one end male (left side) and female (right side). Then the put a bolt in the female end and installed a roll pin through the shaft and bolt. What happened to you and I also is we both removed that bolt and In doing so broke that roll pin and took out the threads in the shaft. Proper removal of the right side idler wheel is to remove nut from left side, and slide axle through all the spacers and center wheels. Then remove right idler wheel from axle. Its a stupid design really, but I was able to repair mine with a Tap and new bolt. Don't try and reinstall that bolt as you may ruin it completely. I would recommend buying or using a tap that is slightly larger (I used a standard thread tap not a metric one) and tap the hole in the axle, and install a new bolt with a little bit of blue loctite. Hopefully this helps, if you have any questions let me know as I went through this about a month ago! Pissed me off!
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ok..I am not a real handy guy so when you say tap the hole you mean??..is there still a piece in there that I need to get out?...
 
with mine,both end so the shaft was wrecked,I uped for another shaft.You have that broken piece in there and probably that pin to contend with..try to drill that out straight and tap..not easily done.Them shafts don`t cost that much anyways.Check for your model on any of the Yamaha supplier sites,punch in your make and model and look up the cost.
 
if your sled is a 97 vmax sx 600,the shaft part number is 8L8-47520-02-00.I found on one site it priced at $26.47 for an example.Direct from Yamaha will probably cost you double or more.
 
By tap I mean make new threads in the shaft. You can get a tap at a local auto parts supplier. But if cost isn't a big issue than you can opt to replace. The dealers around here don't stock much for my sled and I didn't want to wait over a week to get it so I repaired it. Up to you really.
 
96YamVmaxXT said:
By tap I mean make new threads in the shaft. You can get a tap at a local auto parts supplier. But if cost isn't a big issue than you can opt to replace. The dealers around here don't stock much for my sled and I didn't want to wait over a week to get it so I repaired it. Up to you really.
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so how much of that bolt if any is still in the shaft?how long is the bolt if not broken?........I guess all that bolt does is hold that idler wheel on?....last question is if I di replace the shaft does the whole suspension need to come out for this or is there another way??..Thanks Again
 
The bolt didn't break, that is the whole thing. And yes for the most part that is all that bolt does. I'm not sure if the axle can be replaced without removing whole suspension because i had mine out when this happened. Anyone replaced them without removing suspension?
 
96YamVmaxXT said:
The bolt didn't break, that is the whole thing. And yes for the most part that is all that bolt does. I'm not sure if the axle can be replaced without removing whole suspension because i had mine out when this happened. Anyone replaced them without removing suspension?
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so it sounds like perhaps get a new bolt and try to tap it out or my buddy says use a tracer.....would still like to hear from someone who knows if the axle can be replaced without removing skid...Thanks
 
I thought that looked like a roll pin through that bolt,anyway i would pull the skid to replace that axle no real easy way of doing it plus you can check everything else out wile your in there.
 
daman said:
I thought that looked like a roll pin through that bolt,anyway i would pull the skid to replace that axle no real easy way of doing it plus you can check everything else out wile your in there.
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sounds good....any tricks or things to worry about when removing the skid?..never did it before.....Diceman
 
lift the rear to unload weight,loosen track all the way,start from the rear and work your way up to the front removing bolts when droping skid.

when putting back in it's a little tuffer start from the front work back,loosen the rear transfer bolts that will aid in getting the top idlers lined up.
 
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