Power valve adjustment

wanasrx

wanasrx

Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2003
Messages
410
Age
61
Location
Ghent, NY
Cleaned my power valves on my 01 srx. Not to bad being 1700 miles and yamalube. Purchased maxx's pv tester. What a pain to get hooked up. The electrical ends were a bit to big for the female end on the sled. The directions were fine but that kind of ticked me off. Activated the motor, didn't really move to far ?? Checked gap at the cable/valve connection , all were around .16"(spec .08 -.14) Adjusted all three to .11 .
Questions:
Is the adjustment distance somewhat typical?
How far should the motor actually turn? ( I did pull on a cable a bit and she did return a few times, looked to be only around a half inch)
This may help others:
Used two drill bits (the size of the gap I wanted) and slid them in at bothsides of the flanges to get a good measurement on the gap. It helps get the mating surfaces squared up with each other.
Try to fit those male ends on the tester in your female plug before you put them in the plug cover. If they don't fit they'll just push out the end of the plug and piss you off. :rockon:
 
It takes a bit more time, but pull the pipes off and remove the exhaust manifolds. Once you have them adjusted, stick your finger into the exhaust port and feel if the valve is open/flush with the top of the port. This is the position the valve will be in when it's open. Then you'll know that it's correct, but remember that the powervalve motor should be cycled to the open position (either with the tester, idled down under 900 rpm, or to the previous marked location on the pv-motor).

Jon
 
start the sled and adjust the idle down, at 900 rpm's or below the servo motor will open up completely, keep an eye on the servo motor and try to kill the motor when the servo opens completely and mark that spot with a paint pin. it sounds like to me your servo motor isn't opening very far.

My buddy had the same problem with his tester and he ended up just using the red and black wire on the tester and not the blue, it then opened completely.

and like "ecopter" said, take your exhaust off when you think it is adjusted right and check to make sure the valve is flush
 
I guess I'm assuming the valves were open being the adjustment wasn't that far off. I used the red and black wires on the tester as directed. The motor rotated, stopped and then stuttered. I happened to pull on the cable a couple of times while adjusting and the motor moved back. Powered it up again and it did the same thing , rotated, stopped and stuttered.
Does this sound normal?
If I had the pipes on I would start it as you stated but I'd rather not unless I have to.
 
By the way, do you guys use new exhaust gaskets when you remove the manifolds?
Also, can you move the servo motor by hand without damaging it?
 
Last edited:
Valves

My friend's '98 would stutter as well when using the Maxx PV tester. I don't recall exactly what we did to get it to stop but after jiggling things around a bit we finally managed to get it to settle down. I assume it was a bad connection because, as you said, the connectors on the end are absolute crap.
 
anyone else?
Can you move the servo motor by hand without damaging it?
Can ya re-use the manifold gaskets?
thanks everyone
 
I was wondering if you have your motor apart, cylinders off and wanted to check the valves on your workbench, can you do it. [or just by setting the cylinders back on the sled]. Is their any way to open the servo motor without the sled running or a tester like max perf. I see many people having a lot of trouble with that tester. Does someone make one better? I just hate to put all back together and then take triple pipe manifolds off to check valves.
 
I just got a Valve testor thingy from Yamaha for my SRX's but have no instructions on how to use it. Are there instructions posted on this site somewhere??? If not, how do you use the frikken thing???
 
What type of plug is at the end? White with male connections, other end with a black and red leads for a battery?
 
Wana, yes you can move the servo by hand BUT VERY CAREFULLY. And you can take the manifold pipes off and re-use the gaskets just pay attention to which side is which so you can put them back on right.

Now for my personal opinion on adjusting the valves... To get them right you're better off taking the manifolds off so you can stick your finger in there and adjust them until they are flush and this is the only way to actually "know" that they are flush. I also don't have much faith in using the tester to open them up and here's why. Nobody has been able to prove yet whether the tester drives the motor to the same position that the sled does. I've gotten the RPM's down under 900 so that it opened the valves up. Now if I turn the sled off I can still turn the servo by hand and open them up a little more before the motor hits its stop. So if the tester just drives it the motor to the stop then you're not actually getting the same position that the sled would on its own. Hope this makes sense.
 
Bigmax,
What ya said makes sense. I've pulled one manifold off and the valve is flush. I must have got lucky doing it the other way. Now if only I'm lucky in having the servo motor at its open position ?????. Going to check the other ones while it's apart then put it back together and fire it up (outside, she in my cellar )and see if the servo goes to the same location when I idle her down. Hoping it will or I'll have to start all over.
Thank you
Rich
 
Bigmax,
so are you saying when you take the manifolds off you go to the servo and move it all the way open and then check the valves with your fingers? or do you start the sled do the 900 rpm trick and then take the manifolds off?
 
All done. The maxx tester and idling her down both put the servo motor at the same spot. Feeling through the exhaust ports is the best way, as stated by many. I had it close by doing it the other way but it's not perfect. Thanks to all for the help. ;)! :rockon:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top