Yes, if you are truly looking for top end speed you will need more than that....
madzx2
Member
ok so my srx isnt that bad for speed im seeing in 1000-1500'?
Are your speeds recorded on GPS or dream meter? There is about an 8 mph difference from one to the other....
madzx2
Member
Whammy said:Are your speeds recorded on GPS or dream meter? There is about an 8 mph difference from one to the other....
on my gps it said 94.5 and the speedo said 100
There are so many different variables to work with,, probably most important is the primary weight itself, helix has a huge role in speed obtained also.. Right now I'm running the 8dn-20's 4.5 middle 5.1 in the tip, ysy with a haulk 51/45 with a green at 70.. I have a SC10III skid with a 1" carve unstudded.. Just pulling my 4" duallys off in place of a worn down single can give me a couple more mph..... I have mine setup for top end and a cruising RPM of 4500-6000 between speeds of 45-70mph,, about 110 in 2000' and 115 in 2500'... no matter where your at it goes right to 8500 rpm and pulls,,, can still feel track spin well over 100 mph.. Got to get a little more ski pressure off the ground yet...
unchained
New member
Thats fast and deff good for a 1.25 ripsaw. The speedo is a dream-o-meter as you may have already read on here so whatever you show (speedo) after 100 you can subtract 7-8 mph. Im running a 1" Hacksaw and am VERY pleased with the traction and the top end...norwegian said:That is 116 mph, with a ripsaw 1.25 track. I think it's pretty good. I couldn't give it all that day because the sled was overrevving badly due to a too shallow helix. I'll give it another shot in march when I'm home. But keep in mind, 1.25 track.
madzx2
Member
im running an unstudded stock .920 track. but by next month i will have 120 or 144 woodys megabite studs.
Best of Results SRX 700
60' ET 1.684
330' ET 4.737
660' MPH 90.73
660' ET 7.417
1000' MPH 96.57
1000' ET 9.842
0-30 MPH (in sec.) 1.40
0-60 MPH (in sec.) 3.29
0-100 MPH (in sec.) 10.99
this was from amsno in december of 2000. so after finding this out im satisfied with my results for now. but i do know there is more to be had.
Best of Results SRX 700
60' ET 1.684
330' ET 4.737
660' MPH 90.73
660' ET 7.417
1000' MPH 96.57
1000' ET 9.842
0-30 MPH (in sec.) 1.40
0-60 MPH (in sec.) 3.29
0-100 MPH (in sec.) 10.99
this was from amsno in december of 2000. so after finding this out im satisfied with my results for now. but i do know there is more to be had.
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unchained said:Thats fast and deff good for a 1.25 ripsaw. The speedo is a dream-o-meter as you may have already read on here so whatever you show (speedo) after 100 you can subtract 7-8 mph. Im running a 1" Hacksaw and am VERY pleased with the traction and the top end...
Do you know if the Hacksaw is a little stiffer? The ripsaw feels like it's kind of too soft at high speeds. (Yes I know a softer track is generally better for higher speeds, but there has to be limits!).

bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
whanmmy,where are your limiter straps set up for length?? My all almost pulled up all the way.Last season ending was hitting 118 on speedo,unstudded and basically on ice.I am sure my ski pessure could be backed off.Even if you pull straps all the way up, really changing approach angle and applying more pressure to ski's,if you sit on the sled this way,the straps will really become loose due to compression of skid.So I can't see reason then to pull straps up all the way.I will back mine maybe back to specs.
Ya Blue, I have to let my let my straps out some more, I have the SC10III in there and did not want to much ski lift when I was setting it up... Hearing the stories about all the transfer and all... But I set it up according to bluewho install and the sled does not sit any higher than stock as I thought it would. Now sled is up north with no place to pull sled in to work on. Right now I get minimal ski lift, It still handles like Its on rails, Maybe even better than the stock suspension but with a much improved ride. I have the big X package shocks in there that I need to revalve to my weight,, a little to stiff yet.
unchained
New member
Not sure. I know the hack is also very soft but I think the lug design/pattern acting as a fan blade has more to do with slowing the sled down than the durometer of the rubber. I know the early ZR 800 and Viper 1" Camo finger tracks supposedely had good top end and didnt "balloon" out at high speeds. (parden my spelling here)....norwegian said:Do you know if the Hacksaw is a little stiffer? The ripsaw feels like it's kind of too soft at high speeds. (Yes I know a softer track is generally better for higher speeds, but there has to be limits!).
madzx2
Member
ok so the set up im running now is feeling pretty good. i rode to work today about 5 miles. when i got there i felt the clutches and was looking at them and noticed 2 cracks in the movable primary sheave. im bummin hard now. the primary i am running was traded to me from a fellow member and i dont remember how many miles he said it had. i did notice that there in like a dent at the top of the sheave and the cracks are by the dent. i should have questioned it when i got it but didnt. anyone got a GOOD primary for sale?
madzx2
Member
i just went out and looked at the clutch and the new belt must have been slipping a ton because the bottom cogs were melted to the primary. im so pissed i dont know what would have caused that. all i did was add more weight and installed a new belt 1.5mm above the secondary.



If your secondary is wrapped to tight it will be harder on your primary to spin belt.... make sure you took e-break off...... Did that once.. good way to ruin a new belt.......
madzx2
Member
Whammy said:If your secondary is wrapped to tight it will be harder on your primary to spin belt.... make sure you took e-break off...... Did that once.. good way to ruin a new belt.......
i have the secondary at 70. it seemed to grab at engagement and then i could feel it slip but it would grab as speed increased. i removed my ebrake when i put my new track in because i couldnt figure out how to reinstall it.
Make sure clutches are free of dirt and grease,, even take some 400 grit to scuff em up.. Did you give your new belt a good soapy bath? If not the residue on new belts will let them spin........
madzx2
Member
Whammy said:Make sure clutches are free of dirt and grease,, even take some 400 grit to scuff em up.. Did you give your new belt a good soapy bath? If not the residue on new belts will let them spin........
yes i washed it last night and let it dry in front of the stove. i also cleaned the sheaves before i installed the new belt.
Id take off the primary and make sure all is OK, bushing may be hanging up a bit.. Go over it all, may have missed something. Good wishes to a cool fix. Its definitely running hot... Don't know if you used nuts and bolts for weight but remove spring and make sure there is plenty of clearance for weights to stay on rollers through total clutch movement.....
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madzx2
Member
Whammy said:Id take off the primary and make sure all is OK, bushing may be hanging up a bit.. Go over it all, may have missed something. Good wishes to a cool fix. Its definitely running hot... Don't know if you used nuts and bolts for weight but remove spring and make sure there is plenty of clearance for weights to stay on rollers through total clutch movement.....
im gonna replace the clutch because its cracked in two spots. i aint taking a chance on it letting loose. i used the hardware that came with the heavy hitters.
madzx2
Member
just recieved my new to me used primary. i ran it with the stock 8dn-20 setup and ywy spring with my mega power 56/40 helix and green at 70. the engagement was a nice change from 5500 with my hh set up to being 4000 rpms
but the wot rpms were way to high at 9000.
but the wot rpms were way to high at 9000.