Anyone have a 1.25" track studed 9 tooth driver?

T

timd222002

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I was wondering if anyone has the 1.25" track studed. I still have the 9 tooth driver with the 1.25 studed and I installed the fwd heat exchange protectors but with the track hitting them it ended up loosening the rivets on the protectors. Wondering if anyone had some advice.
 
Unfortunately I think you know what you need to do next, but don't want to hear it;)

If you are set on a 1.25" track with studs, you will need to go to 8t drivers. You might as well get extrovert drivers while you are at it.
 
I'm gonna get it to work the question is how? Option #1 I think I might be able to get a nylocked nut in between the heat exchanger and the belly and cut a bolt to the right lenghth so it does not protrude and may need to shave down nut a little. I don't want it to be hitting the heat exchanger while ridding. Option # 2 I could also just shave the tips of the track where the windows are located a little so the track wouldn't constantly contact and obviously keep a close eye on the track tension. Option #3 make my own protectors that extend farther under the belly pan giving me a more rigid setup where i would be able to use bolts. it has the belly protector already and this would hide it. These are just a couple of ideas I had though of. But I love the 1.25 track and the studs and the sled is running great clutched the way it is and I don't want to change all this with the 8 tooth drivers.
 
Your willing to do the work to the protectors but not the drivers & gearing? I can't handle riding around thinking i might put a hole in the exchanger. I wonder if you could make it so when it got hot it would kill the motor, or run through the TORS as to not run it if you put a hole in the exchanger.
 
I have a rip saw 1 1/4" with studs and it works great all you have to do is notch the lugs where it hits the protectors by 3/8" or so. It still has lots of clearance to the heat exchanger just make sure your track is set to 1" to 1 1/4" @ 22 lbs. I've had no issues yet.
 
How tall of studs are you guys running?? I studded with 1.5's I don't think it would be clear. Also by notching the track you are letting the studs come even closer to the exchanger. I think the problem will arise if your track ratchets as the inner lug will push out & over the driver.
 
ottawaair said:
How tall of studs are you guys running?? I studded with 1.5's I don't think it would be clear. Also by notching the track you are letting the studs come even closer to the exchanger. I think the problem will arise if your track ratchets as the inner lug will push out & over the driver.
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I was wondering how tall the studs they use are as well.

I go at least .25" over, if not 3/8" when I stud. I just think you are playing with fire if you use 9t drivers instead of 8t ones.
 
why would anyone need to run larger than 1.25 lug on groomed trails? I have 1.25 on the Viper and is more than enough, I did notch the lugs to clear the protectors, very easy to do. Use a knife and a hot torch.
 
alswagg said:
why would anyone need to run larger than 1.25 lug on groomed trails?
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There really is no reason to run taller than that on a groomed trail. If anything, you will eat up more sliders with the taller track, and of course you will lose top end speed with a taller track as well.
 
And don't forget the taller lug paddle tracks are hard on the trails. I hate when I see somebody with 1.75" paddles spinning his/her track right down the middle of the trail. 1.25" Ripsaw, Cobra or Predator is more than enough. Personally I run a 1".
 
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