How to Grease Primary & Secondary Clutches

S

srt842

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Jan 5, 2010
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Location
South Branch, MI
Does anyone have advice on how to grease/lube the Primary & Secondary Clutches on 2003 Viper? I looked in the Maintenance Manual and on this forum and I have been unable to find it. Thanks in advance!!
 
DO not use anything on the primary. Just BLOW IT OUT! Use compressed air and blow it out as often as you can.
The secondary I take apart often ( make sure you check what the spring was at) and clean and use a slight amount I mean a film of light lube(white grease maybe?). This is all I do. ALthough it doesn't last long as they will be dirty again in a week.

Just clean clean clean. They will last a lot longer.
 
I removed the belt on my Viper and my wife's venom and on both, I had a hard time getting the secondary release to snap back in place. It seemed like something needed to be lubed.
 
You more then likely need to replace the ramp shoes they may be worn all the way down, there like $1 each and should be done every or every other yr.

Never use any lube
 
Concept Carbon said:
You more then likely need to replace the ramp shoes they may be worn all the way down, there like $1 each and should be done every or every other yr.

Never use any lube
Click to expand...
Both sleds have less than 700 miles on them so I don't suspect anything is wearing out.
 
It's possible that any previous application of oil has collected enough 'junk' that it's now built up in the bushing clearance area. The bushings are self lubing. Make sure all three ramp shoes are still there. I agree that this shouldn't be a wear issue at 700 so it must be dirty.
 
The secondaries should take some force to open. Ona 4 stroke it,s 3X harder. normal & don,t put any lube of any kind anywhere near your clutches.
 
All the lube will do is act as a magnet for belt dust. If it gets on the sheaves and the belt, which it will do, your belt will slip terribly. They are easy to keep clean if you clean them often, the belt dust is easier to remove if it doesn't build up. I diassemble both clutches at the beginninig of every season or 1500 miles and use an ultrasonic cleaning tank to clean them up. I also deglaze the surface of the sheaves with 240 grit sand paper. When the bushings need to be replaced, get a set of oil-lite bushings from Alan Ullmer. There is less initial play with his bushings and they are self lubricating. They will last longer and work smoother.
 
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