Bluenote
New member
Ok not sure the proper name of the piece, but is the lower part where the front shock on the skid mounts to the bar which in turn mounts to the rails.
The limiter straps are also around this bar.
Here is my issue. I sheared the heads off both bolts that hold this mounting bar in place on the skid. No idea why a Number 8 grade bolt would shear off so easy, as I was not being an idiot yesterday, just riding in the powder. But both sides came clean off. Now I have the issue is how do I get these bolts out of that bar ?
I tried to drill them out and just re-tap the holes if needed, but I burnt through 5 tintanium bits and it made hardly any progress.
So I doubt doing the dremel trick of making a slot in them and then backing them out with a flat head would work.
I though about heating it up with a torch and trying, but kinda afraid that I will weaken this bar in the process.
Ideas would be great, and ideas why grade 8 bolts would snap off like this.
Or should I just take it to a shop and have them drill it out and then re-tap it and be done with it?
Thanks
Sorry , this is also on my 1998 V Max SX
The limiter straps are also around this bar.
Here is my issue. I sheared the heads off both bolts that hold this mounting bar in place on the skid. No idea why a Number 8 grade bolt would shear off so easy, as I was not being an idiot yesterday, just riding in the powder. But both sides came clean off. Now I have the issue is how do I get these bolts out of that bar ?
I tried to drill them out and just re-tap the holes if needed, but I burnt through 5 tintanium bits and it made hardly any progress.
So I doubt doing the dremel trick of making a slot in them and then backing them out with a flat head would work.
I though about heating it up with a torch and trying, but kinda afraid that I will weaken this bar in the process.
Ideas would be great, and ideas why grade 8 bolts would snap off like this.
Or should I just take it to a shop and have them drill it out and then re-tap it and be done with it?
Thanks
Sorry , this is also on my 1998 V Max SX
bluewho
Active member
Its just simply a poor design.The front axle is mounted were the older sleds like phazors and exciters were and with the extra weight of holding the sled up there is pounding on the front shock breaking the w arm or in your case the shock axle bracket has spun on the rail snapping the bolts.I cant remember if 98s had a slot cut in them[that slides over the ledge of the rails or if there is only a half moon that sits over the ledge.
I would upgrade it to the slot style if that is the case.
I would upgrade it to the slot style if that is the case.
get a pic of the shaft I may have something that would work to replace it with. Maxdlx
as well, i have a box full of suspension parts and cross shafts. length and diameter would be needed.maxdlx said:get a pic of the shaft I may have something that would work to replace it with. Maxdlx
been there ...have a weld shop weld a smaller bolt on whats left and back it out that way ....the heat from the welder will help loosen the red locktight
bluewho
Active member
There is a welding rod thats has been out for years that will stick to the bolt and not damage the threads in the hole.Have used it on truck bell houseings that the trany has come loose and snapped the bolts off.Its puddles out like a icecream cone untill you can git visegripes on it.
try a cobalt drill bit. Ive drill out a many grade 8 bolts with cobalt bits.
Bluenote
New member
I'll pull the shaft out tomorrow and it is the one with the notches in it. Not that big of a deal, just a pita for two bolts.
Going to try and fix it, if I cannot I will take one of you up on a new one.
Personally I was even going to go have a new one fabbed up, not like it is some intricate part, just cut off the shock mounts, weld them on a new bar, drill and thread it, and cut a snotch in it, done deal and you know then it is new.
Going to try and fix it, if I cannot I will take one of you up on a new one.
Personally I was even going to go have a new one fabbed up, not like it is some intricate part, just cut off the shock mounts, weld them on a new bar, drill and thread it, and cut a snotch in it, done deal and you know then it is new.
gild
New member
lower shock mount
Make sure the shock has not been changed and is too long. Fully collapsed you still should see a bit of the shock shaft. If it is too long your W arm may also be bent at the top mounting bar.
I guess you have not priced one yet, you will have to sell your house for one. I have one if you need it.
Make sure the shock has not been changed and is too long. Fully collapsed you still should see a bit of the shock shaft. If it is too long your W arm may also be bent at the top mounting bar.
I guess you have not priced one yet, you will have to sell your house for one. I have one if you need it.
Bluenote
New member
gild said:Make sure the shock has not been changed and is too long. Fully collapsed you still should see a bit of the shock shaft. If it is too long your W arm may also be bent at the top mounting bar.
I guess you have not priced one yet, you will have to sell your house for one. I have one if you need it.
The W arm is fine, about the best part of the skid tbh, not even any rust on it.
As for the bar though, since you are in BC , how much would you want for one with the notches, need the bolts as well if you have. And I would need it here by thursday/friday as I have another trail ride Saturday, but guess we can UPS it, no worries about brokerage fee's since you are in canada.
e-mail me directly at jeffsch@mymts.net with price for shipping and for the bar.
Thanks
the shock mount bar that you are referring to has 4 bolts! not two. There are two bracket bolts that extend out to the rails and two that go into the rails and into the ends of the bar. the brackets usually break causing the bolts to break off from the rails! you could weld the brackets back on if you are good at welding making sure they line up perfectly or you just need to buy a new one.
Bluenote
New member
yammy said:the shock mount bar that you are referring to has 4 bolts! not two. There are two bracket bolts that extend out to the rails and two that go into the rails and into the ends of the bar. the brackets usually break causing the bolts to break off from the rails! you could weld the brackets back on if you are good at welding making sure they line up perfectly or you just need to buy a new one.
The two brakets are the only thing that was holding it together, those little bolts never broke, I actually drilled two more holes , one for each side when the other side went, just to make sure those stay in place.
Anyway got it off, looks like it sheared off about a 1/4 inch inside, so least they have a good guide to drill it out, just about to take it in to drill out now and then have it retapped.
Now should I stay with grade 8 bolts or go lower like I was told to be some people.
One good thing, no damage to the rest of the suspension or track and I had to ride it back 50 miles like this boondocking it pretty much all the way.
I think though I may put some sort of reinforcment at the bracket and pipe/tube junction, just to try and take the load off the bolt.
gild
New member
heat
If you have acess toa leftt hand drill bit and a torch it will come out
If you have acess toa leftt hand drill bit and a torch it will come out

bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
every season I get at least one of these heads break off.First time I tried drilling it and do a re-tap..but screwed it up.Lucky I had a spare shaft lying around.The second tome this happened,I drilled a smaller hole and used an e-z out.It backed off so easy..it was funny.I am expecting another to break before this season is done,providing I get to get the SRX on the snow..loll/I just have to make sure I am not running low on the bolts to replace the snapped ones.
Bluenote
New member
bluemonster1 said:every season I get at least one of these heads break off.First time I tried drilling it and do a re-tap..but screwed it up.Lucky I had a spare shaft lying around.The second tome this happened,I drilled a smaller hole and used an e-z out.It backed off so easy..it was funny.I am expecting another to break before this season is done,providing I get to get the SRX on the snow..loll/I just have to make sure I am not running low on the bolts to replace the snapped ones.
I lucked out and found this old timer, as in about 70 years old, he drilled them out, re-tapped it with non metric sh*t bolts, he also made it so it not only sits on the rail notched, but also welded up two half moon loops on the bar to when I reinstall it, I can weld it to the other bracket, so even if the bolt broke, the bracket would hold, kinda trip protection. I also had the inside of the tub reinforced , as it was bending over time.
I just hate sh*t that breaks over and over again because of a poor design.
Oh ya, he also said there was another option, and this may solve it for everyone. Instead of using bolts, he suggested drilling it out more so it was smooth on both the hardened ends that are welded onto the tub, then fit it, then run a solid metal cylinder or pipe, high grade, mark it off where it comes out as you could slid it right through, and then thread it, then you just use bolts instead, if it breaks, you can almost carry a spare on the trail then. Kinda like knocking out the bolt for a shock.
The other idea, which I like if I get the 136 track extension, is to get a billit aluminium one made up, costly if you do not know a shop though, but you save some weight and it is stronger, this one would be made like the above I just mentioned.
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