Installing front heat exchanger

Im gonna post a pic of the exchanger. i tore the sled down last night (suspension, track, driveshaft.) so i can show you guys exactly what im dealing with. wall thickness looks to be really thin might only b able to get 3 threads max even with UNF threads.
 
beekmanSRX said:
http://s940.photobucket.com/albums/...&current=HeatexchangerAntlers008.jpg&newest=1

http://s940.photobucket.com/albums/...&current=HeatexchangerAntlers009.jpg&newest=1


just so im clear, for the bolt method do u grind down the fins where your going to be inserting it so that its flush? and do you pressurize the two hoses coming out of the exchanger to test it? any easier way of pressure testing?

beekman
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Maybe you could grind it down flush and alumiweld a patch of aluminum right over top of it? Just throwing a thought out there.
 
Ya I gotta get it somewhat leveled out, insert the plug (bolt) and use a washer and put some aluminum expoxy underneath the washer to get a nice tight seal. Worth a try!
 
seca said:
i have seen friends cover holes bigger than that with j-b weld . just make sure it's fully dry when applying and let cure overnight. it works!!
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Yikes, I think by the time you're done grinding away a flat spot you may open the hole quite a bit more. My buddy with the sheet metal screw had a somewhat perfect round hole (more like a single puncture) but you've got a bit more material missing. I think you might have a tough time getting a good mechanical seal and it doesn't look very deep. I guess trying a screw first won't stop you from using something else.

I assume it's still in the sled (kinda looks like it). Other than some low temp brazing rod, JB wled might be your second best choice making sure things are clean (wipe with acetone) and dry when applying.

If it's out, pay someone $20 bucks to tig it.

Sucks man, good luck.
 
My track blew off last year on my SXR700 and gouged my front exchanger really badly (while on my track stand which flew 300 ft. in the air).

I bought a used exchanger (Viperlover) at Haydays and looked at doing the work myself. But when I realized that my water pump seal was actually leaking too, I just took the whole thing to my local Motorsports shop and had them change the exchanger and the pump seals. It was around $400.00 and I had everything out of their way to minimize the cost (track, drive shaft etc.). They actually found that one of the studs had screwed up the motor mount stud and I had to put in a new mount too!

I feel safe that it's not going to leak out on me in the middle of nowhere now.

I would NOT trust JBWeld!!

Exciterfan
 
and thought you where non-existent anymore Len..haven't seen you post on here since way back when.You are alive then...lol..Happy New Year to you to..
 
do you have to take the panel out under the engine i think i have all my rivets out it wiggles just wont come out
 
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