unchained
New member
54/44---silver spring and Cat CFR 800 HO results
Removed the MAXX roller 64/44 set up and put on a Yami 54/44 and a new silver spring. Initially could only pull about 8200 and wasnt impressed. Cranked up the twist and could climb to 8500 then. On a hard ice road I was getting 86- maybe 8700. Probably need to back off the spring a touch.
Weather was upper 20's during the day and the sled was flat untill the sun went down. Pulled the carbs and verified jetting is 02 stock and also verified the PV's were free. Ran much stronger at night in low 20/upper teen temps so im pondering a tempa flow now. This is now the 3rd ride with no DCS light yet the sled feels rich? Last year I was constantly seeing the light and it seemed to run better above 30 degrees than it does this year...
It feels like the aggressive clutching requires the engine to be making peak HP or its actually slower--possibly? Right now the primary is stock so i may load the 8DN-20's up and change the primary spring and go from there.
Rode with a brand new 2010 Cat cfr 800 HO this weekend..
I could actually jump him to about 60 then he would go by me and pull out about 2-3 sleds. About the time I felt like I could possibly run him down, he would let off. We are both unstudded and the conditions were loose snow on top of solid ice. Had a fun weekend eitherway...
Removed the MAXX roller 64/44 set up and put on a Yami 54/44 and a new silver spring. Initially could only pull about 8200 and wasnt impressed. Cranked up the twist and could climb to 8500 then. On a hard ice road I was getting 86- maybe 8700. Probably need to back off the spring a touch.
Weather was upper 20's during the day and the sled was flat untill the sun went down. Pulled the carbs and verified jetting is 02 stock and also verified the PV's were free. Ran much stronger at night in low 20/upper teen temps so im pondering a tempa flow now. This is now the 3rd ride with no DCS light yet the sled feels rich? Last year I was constantly seeing the light and it seemed to run better above 30 degrees than it does this year...
It feels like the aggressive clutching requires the engine to be making peak HP or its actually slower--possibly? Right now the primary is stock so i may load the 8DN-20's up and change the primary spring and go from there.
Rode with a brand new 2010 Cat cfr 800 HO this weekend..
I could actually jump him to about 60 then he would go by me and pull out about 2-3 sleds. About the time I felt like I could possibly run him down, he would let off. We are both unstudded and the conditions were loose snow on top of solid ice. Had a fun weekend eitherway...
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mopar1rules
Active member
what is your primary setup? i think turk calls for 60deg w/silver and 54/44 helix w/stock primary. i could be wrong tho??
unchained
New member
02 stock primary. Im sure my primary spring is sacked out at 4,000 miles now though. It runs and pulls hard for sure as is but I started at 60 degrees and couldnt get passed 8200 so I had to wind it up. Im thinking a fresh primary spring and cooler temps and I should be able to back off closer to 60 degrees.mopar1rules said:
unchained
New member
Rode 100 miles today. 35-38 degrees and soft slushy trails.
Removed the Bender can and put a stock back on. Immediattely started turning 8700 with no clutch changes from the weekend before. Backed the secondary spring from 3/6 to 2/6 and got 8500. Ok so it pulls really hard and for almost 40 degrees with stock jetting. I was very pleased with how it ran overall. Old 8DN belt eventually delaminated after many long hard runs with an 03 F7 (stock). He could pretty well walk me from a 50 roll but from 80, I could hold him off and twice we held out and I slowly pulled away showing about 112-115 ish (speedo). I was surprised how hard he could walk me down low and under 60 but Im confident that his EFI was running better than me and at 15 degrees it will be different. Fun day and fun competition with 2 legends. So far Im real pleased with the 54/44, silver spring especially after I put a stock muffler on it...
Removed the Bender can and put a stock back on. Immediattely started turning 8700 with no clutch changes from the weekend before. Backed the secondary spring from 3/6 to 2/6 and got 8500. Ok so it pulls really hard and for almost 40 degrees with stock jetting. I was very pleased with how it ran overall. Old 8DN belt eventually delaminated after many long hard runs with an 03 F7 (stock). He could pretty well walk me from a 50 roll but from 80, I could hold him off and twice we held out and I slowly pulled away showing about 112-115 ish (speedo). I was surprised how hard he could walk me down low and under 60 but Im confident that his EFI was running better than me and at 15 degrees it will be different. Fun day and fun competition with 2 legends. So far Im real pleased with the 54/44, silver spring especially after I put a stock muffler on it...
mopar1rules
Active member
unchained said:
this should be a sticky, so people will stop thinking that they are adding hp to their srx's w/aftermarket silencers.
daman
New member
^^^Definitely!!!!mopar1rules said:
with them temps your in yea your rich even with stock '02 jetting or DCS would be talking or you found a good source of fuel,watch when temps when they drop down tho.
that 54/44 set up is a very good choice for srx's that along with the whole package is needed. was that a Y-S-Y spring?
how many miles are on the sled now?
unchained
New member
mopar1rules said:
I wasnt going to be shocked if the Bender can robbed a little but seriously the stock can woke mine up on long hard pulls. The only bummer is the added weight but oh well, Im a believer now.
daman
New member
Cut down on the big macs,lol Yamaha did there home work on the srx exhaust.unchained said:I wasnt going to be shocked if the Bender can robbed a little but seriously the stock can woke mine up on long hard pulls. The only bummer is the added weight but oh well, Im a believer now.
bufalobob
Member
round bender can on the dyno is +4-5 h.p. mid range & +2-3 h.p. @ peak!! 10 degrees less twist is not going to drop 200 rpms... maybe 50. belts usually delaminate from excessive heat - slippage. you need to check clutch alignment & put on a new belt before trying to dial the sled in.
bob
bob
unchained
New member
daman said:
It is rich when its warm out but perfect when its cold. Considering a tempa flow at this point.
After coming off a damn near solid bare ice trail for a mile or so and then onto an nice hard snow covered 2 track, I lined up from a roll to race my buddy with the f7 and I couldnt keep the light off. Once I got off into some snow and back onto the 2 track, no light. Im sure I was running warm but it just occured to me that the DCS can also be triggered easier by low snow, warm weather in addition to just low octane and bad gas.
Sleds got about 4300 after yesterdays 100 mile ride.
Primary is all stock. Any recommondations? My belt was deff less than good and mid range and below 80, that F7 was putting 3-4 sleds on me. He could also run me down from 50-80 big time. Im half tempted to throw my MAXX roller, 64/44, Cat red/white in with this stock muffler and compare.
What exactly is the whole package?
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daman
New member
right in warm weather slush snow it loads the motor more thus making deto and DCS going off, i dont ride in that crap.unchained said:
8DN-20's loaded with 4.5
Y-S-Y for light weight guy(lower engagement) OR W-W-W for heavy guy(higher engagement)
54/44(1st choice) or (51/43 2nd choice) with a green(corner to corner)spring or red(more top end type riding)spring @ 70 to start.
unchained
New member
I agree the $5 ebay used 8DN I was running wasnt good for tuning. I'll start again with a fresh belt. Last weekend I struggled to get 8500, changed the muffler and gained at least 100 if not possibly 200 rpms from 5 days prior. Backed secondary spring off 10 degrees and back down to 8500. Not sure how much the failing belt had to do with all of this though. Eitherway and regardless of the clutching scenerios, the sled pulls harder and runs stronger (on top). I dont dissagree that I may have lost some mid range though...bufalobob said:
unchained
New member
4.5 in both holes I assume.daman said:
daman
New member
yes..
bufalobob
Member
for a accurate comparison of cans you would need to run them both the same day in the same conditions. before you put on the new belt clean the clutch sheaves w/ acetone. check offset/center to center distance. adjust belt height. you do not want a lot of installed belt deflection. also, go up 1 jet size. more fuel will compensate for a marginal cooling system.
bob
bob
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Unchained, What you have done is shown yourself and everyone else who has a sled has a built in "BS" detector,its the tach! If you leave your clutching alone and you gain rpm with changing something like a can or airbox mod,or engine work, pipes, you can easily tell if your getting the advertised power gain,it simply will over rev. Just as your did with the stock can over the aftermarket. Lots of places like to use a "dyno sheet" to sell products when in the real world(your own testing) you can see you dont get a gain and possibly a loss in rpm, the loss in rpm is power loss plain and simple. Of course when dealing with some products like pipes or such there may be some jetting required but leave the clutch alone till you can test the rpm to see if you have a gain in rpm. It (part or work)can make all the hp numbers on paper it wants,but if it doesnt work in the field(real world) what good is your sheet telling you how much power you gained when your buddy just beat you with his stock sled 
.
The best thing to do when buying products is to leave all your tested, known rpm clutch set up alone then install your product or engine work parts on sled and retest, you should over rev if you got what you paid for and didnt get the sales pitch instead. You will never be able to tell a 2-3hp gain,it would be the same as not eating a cheeseburger before you went out riding.
Once you know you gained rpm,then go ahead and harness the new found power by clutching the sled and getting the most of it, your on the right track!
.The best thing to do when buying products is to leave all your tested, known rpm clutch set up alone then install your product or engine work parts on sled and retest, you should over rev if you got what you paid for and didnt get the sales pitch instead. You will never be able to tell a 2-3hp gain,it would be the same as not eating a cheeseburger before you went out riding.
Once you know you gained rpm,then go ahead and harness the new found power by clutching the sled and getting the most of it, your on the right track!
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YAMMIEGOD3:16
Active member
BOB, ALL DO RESPECT TO YOU, THAT BENDER CREW AND JIM AT DYNO-TECH, BUT THERE IS NO WAY I BELIEVE THOSE HORNET NEST,S MAKE 4-5 hp ON A SRX. comon, !!!! THOSE THINGS ARE A WASTE. SORRY. 3:16 (yammie tony)
unchained
New member
Well put Tony. The question it though, do you loose 4-5 hp with it?YAMMIEGOD3:16 said:
YAMMIEGOD3:16
Active member
UNCHAINED, THAT WOULD BE MORE LIKE IT. I WILL ADD THERE HAS BEEN COMPARISON DONE HERE ON LONG RADER PULLS , THE STOCK BOX KILLS THESE THINGS. 3:16 (yammie tony)
bufalobob
Member
tony:
there is another member on here that has posted a link to dyno tests ( recently & in the past ) that confirm my findings. so far we are the only one's to post actual data. 2-3 h.p. @ the crank will be about 1.5 h.p. to the track. not enough to make a diff. on the tach. however it is more than stock & is a big weight savings ( 7# - which is 28 quarter pounders w/ cheese ). that's 7# of sprung weight ( cheeseburgers ) removed from the rt. front side of the sled. that is huge!!!
bob
there is another member on here that has posted a link to dyno tests ( recently & in the past ) that confirm my findings. so far we are the only one's to post actual data. 2-3 h.p. @ the crank will be about 1.5 h.p. to the track. not enough to make a diff. on the tach. however it is more than stock & is a big weight savings ( 7# - which is 28 quarter pounders w/ cheese ). that's 7# of sprung weight ( cheeseburgers ) removed from the rt. front side of the sled. that is huge!!!
bob