So I've read through bethvipers posts about 18 times and think I'm ready for this.
The bottom front shock mount/cross member broke out on me this past weekend. In the process it also stripped out the aluminum rib on both rails (see pix). Will adding in some JBweld/stealex and putting in the full length bolt (stronger than the two short ones) be sufficient to hold this sucker? And is this bolt small enough to fit through the threads for the previous bolts or do I need to ream the holes?
Also, the stealership is charging me like 12$ for the full length bolt and another 5 for the lockwasher...Is there anything wrong with stopping at the local bolt supplyhouse and picking one up for <5$ total? I already ordered the bearings, bushings and whatnot...85$, dang.
Is the brace/bracket that sandwiches the rail (held by the second bolt) supposed to be welded onto the cross member, it looks like it once was. Seems pretty flimsy to me, is there a better set up for this? Does anyone have a picture?
Upon ripping everything apart I found that my W-arm is cracked in several places...more welding, I hope it's worth it.
I found a 121 iq skid for 300$ today, it was tempting. If only it was a 136", my extentions from Hartman won't be compatible will they?
Thanks.
The bottom front shock mount/cross member broke out on me this past weekend. In the process it also stripped out the aluminum rib on both rails (see pix). Will adding in some JBweld/stealex and putting in the full length bolt (stronger than the two short ones) be sufficient to hold this sucker? And is this bolt small enough to fit through the threads for the previous bolts or do I need to ream the holes?
Also, the stealership is charging me like 12$ for the full length bolt and another 5 for the lockwasher...Is there anything wrong with stopping at the local bolt supplyhouse and picking one up for <5$ total? I already ordered the bearings, bushings and whatnot...85$, dang.
Is the brace/bracket that sandwiches the rail (held by the second bolt) supposed to be welded onto the cross member, it looks like it once was. Seems pretty flimsy to me, is there a better set up for this? Does anyone have a picture?
Upon ripping everything apart I found that my W-arm is cracked in several places...more welding, I hope it's worth it.
I found a 121 iq skid for 300$ today, it was tempting. If only it was a 136", my extentions from Hartman won't be compatible will they?
Thanks.
Attachments
yes, it is welded to the lower shock mount. While welding it, it is good insurance to weld another plate similar to it on the bottom pointing forward with a bolt and nut through it
You would be wise to add gussets to the w Arm as opposed to just welding the cracks.
Betheviper, yes I recall seeing this second plate in one of your pictures. I'll add one. Do you know if the long bolt running through this shock mount is a standard 10mm (i think) bolt that I can pick up at the a alternate ( not yamaha) supplier?
Netefrog, I am definitly going to beef it up. I hadn't really thought of gussets, was just going to held on some extra pieces of flat iron, maybe even some angle iron if I can find some to fit. I havn't but much work/thinking into it yet. Do you have any pictures that I can use for reference?
Thanks guys.
Netefrog, I am definitly going to beef it up. I hadn't really thought of gussets, was just going to held on some extra pieces of flat iron, maybe even some angle iron if I can find some to fit. I havn't but much work/thinking into it yet. Do you have any pictures that I can use for reference?
Thanks guys.
theres a 136 m10 on ebay right now. iten # 200439365596 at $300 with 2 days left. hope this helps. awsome site
you can use any size bolt and drill the hole out bigger to fit, take it up to 1/2 or 5/8 if you want and use standard grade 8 bolt.
for the w arm, I have found the best repair and looks the best is to drill and grind out the ends of the tubing on the bottom where you cant see it, slide the appropiate size slug of metal up inside so it goes from the bottom up past the brake a few inches, drill holes in the pipe along the slugs lenght and spot weld it in there as well as welding the cracks. It will look stock and last longer than trying to weld pieces here and there. Make sure when repairing these that they are not welded off plane, sight accross them and make sure they are not twisted before welding.
for the w arm, I have found the best repair and looks the best is to drill and grind out the ends of the tubing on the bottom where you cant see it, slide the appropiate size slug of metal up inside so it goes from the bottom up past the brake a few inches, drill holes in the pipe along the slugs lenght and spot weld it in there as well as welding the cracks. It will look stock and last longer than trying to weld pieces here and there. Make sure when repairing these that they are not welded off plane, sight accross them and make sure they are not twisted before welding.
I recommend swapping skids if you haven't already passed the point of no return. The ride benefits are well worth the time, effort, and $300 or so it takes to get into a newer skid. You just have to be patient until one that you want shows up in good condition. The Proaction is very dated at this point.