MikeSr
New member
What is involved in changing out the tie rod ends that are connected to the radius rods? Do I need to pull the entire engine out, or what? Any special tools needed?
madzx2
Member
i would think you have to pull the engine. when i fixed my harness rub through i pulled the engine and you would have direct acess to the inner tie rod ends.
MikeSr said:
I was able to replace the radius rods on my '01 SRX by just pulling the pipes. I don't see how yanking the motor would help any. It's been a while but I know I didn't pull the motor.
I did mine with the engine in and the pipes out.
madzx2
Member
whoops yea pipes off sorry not awake yet.
Just came in from doing mine on left side, (pesky trees in UP!). Major PIA! the bottom bolt was siezed into the rod end. I had to remove the pipes, and the middle ex. manifold (needed more room due to the bolt siezing). When I took off the 2 bottom manifold bolts they snapped, guess I should have heated them prior to removal. I had to remove the lower belly pan screen to have a path to beat the rod end bolt. At first I thought the bolt got stuck from wacking the tree, but now I realize it was form corrosion.
Good Luck! John
Good Luck! John
I don't know about anyone else but I had a hard time getting at the nuts for the bottom radius rods and holding them properly to loosen them under the hood. You can't get a box end on it. So I just tipped the sled on its side and loosened the lock nut where the radius rod turns into the swivel end and turned out the radius rod and left the swivel end bolted to the bulkhead for the righthand side one. But I was changing radius rods, not the swivel ends. I hope this isn't the one you have to change, its a real pain. I just pulled my pipes and left my manifolds in. It was a little awkward to get at but not too bad.
kirk700 srx
Member
Haul off your manifolds and pipes, it will be much easier to access the 4 bolts. If they are seized, use some heat. Just be careful you do not melt your bellypan and if there is any spilled gas and oil! Not really a big job ,but a PIA like mentioned earlier!
MikeSr
New member
Oh great
Sounds like a lot of fun. Can't be much worse than the bolts I had to drill out on both sides for the trailing arms.
Sounds like a lot of fun. Can't be much worse than the bolts I had to drill out on both sides for the trailing arms.
sasksrx said:
It's all coming back to me. I've had the upper and lower, right side off twice. The first time was up north after hitting a creek crossing the wrong way. Straightened the trailing arm and stick welded the radius arms to get it through the weekend.
Anyhow, I had removed the pipes, left the outlet pipes in place (although it'd been a bit easier without them) and used a box end 12 point (Snap-on) on the nuts and an air ratchet with swivel socket. Of course the sled was only a couple years old then and I didn't run into any corrosion, but when I long traveled it two years ago I still had no corrosion to speak of and again swapped rad. arms the same way.
There isn't much room for the box end wrench to fit over the nut and I know the Snap-on box end has a thinner wall than say an older style Craftsman so perhaps that was the reason sasksrx couldn't get a wrench on them.
If you take your sled apart more often the bolts don't have time to corrode, lol.
I have had a few that really were difficult. Heat and driving them out with an air hammer as a last resort, just expect to need new bolts.
Sounds like you are talking about the heim joints on the inboard side of the radius rods, however on the tie rods you can usually get them fairly easy with the pipe reomved, and even easier with the manifold (Y-pipe) removed.
I have had a few that really were difficult. Heat and driving them out with an air hammer as a last resort, just expect to need new bolts.
Sounds like you are talking about the heim joints on the inboard side of the radius rods, however on the tie rods you can usually get them fairly easy with the pipe reomved, and even easier with the manifold (Y-pipe) removed.
sgauthier
Member
they have loctite on the threads so heat is the way to go to get those off easier.
I guess I'll just have to hit trees more often to keep things loosened up lol! I tried my air hammer on it; no dice. I hit that SOB with all I had (I'm 6'2" 265, and 3# mini sledge) to get it to move. I'll use anti seize upon reassembly! Now the fun of drilling out the broken exhaust bolts, the fun just seems to never end! I'm thinking of pulling the motor to drill out the heim ends 1/2" so I can get SAE sizes (much cheaper/better choices) and have aluminun radius rods/tie rods made to widen it out to 45" for use with Viper shocks I've got.