Remove side heat exchanger on Viper

02ViperMody44

02ViperMody44

Life Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2008
Messages
202
Age
49
Location
Uitca, NY
I have a leak on my right side heat exchanger, I need to take it off as I apparently have a crack in my tunnel where the rear bolt mounts and would like to get it welded when it is all apart. What needs to come off to disconnect the heat exchanger. I've got all the rivets popped, but I can't see to where the front of the exchanger is connected. Do I need to take the foot well apart as well and the side belly pan,trailing arm attachment area. Please advise.

Thanks in advance!!!!
 
02ViperMody44 said:
I have a leak on my right side heat exchanger, I need to take it off as I apparently have a crack in my tunnel where the rear bolt mounts and would like to get it welded when it is all apart. What needs to come off to disconnect the heat exchanger. I've got all the rivets popped, but I can't see to where the front of the exchanger is connected. Do I need to take the foot well apart as well and the side belly pan,trailing arm attachment area. Please advise.

Thanks in advance!!!!
Click to expand...
you dont need to take the foot well apart but you do need to take the little deflector plate off at the front to be able to sneak it around the steering hoop bolt, you may have to put a really thin pry bar on the end to pop the rivets loose, but dont use a lot of force.
 
mtndreamer said:
you dont need to take the foot well apart but you do need to take the little deflector plate off at the front to be able to sneak it around the steering hoop bolt, you may have to put a really thin pry bar on the end to pop the rivets loose, but dont use a lot of force.
Click to expand...

I think you are referring to the FRONT exchanger as I don't feel that I am near the steering hoop. I was asking about the right SIDE heat exchanger. I didn't know if I had to remove the whole foot well to get to the hose that connects to the top of the exchanger. :dunno:
 
I end up destroying the clamp to get mine off, but I just installed a standard worm clamp instead. Either take the chaincase off or pull the screw that holds the side panel to the vent piece that the recoil runs through. Then pop out the rubber cover on the side panel to see what you are doing.
 
I've done the same thing and what a bit*h to get at that clamp. Put a standard hose clamp on after, and yes chaincase removal makes it alot easier.
 
Thanks for the replies. I had just changed the fluid in my chain case, literally 10 minutes before undergoing this endeavor. I had a hell of a time, but ended up taking the bolt out that holds the coolant pipe to the frame and rotating it out and then pushing down on it to gain apprx. an inch of rubber hose before putting on a screw clamp. Before I read the final replies, I was thinking that it would be a lot easier to take the chain case off, put stubborness actually prevailed this lone time and was able to get it back together w/o doing that. If there is a next time I now know better, as it would probably save me a lot of time and anxiety!!!

BTW my cooler was leaking from the side, where it mounts between the metal plate that the suspension sets against. No obvious signs of damage, only that the aluminum looked "corroded". I put air to the cooler to pressurize it and w/ soap and water it was bubbling from that area. What are the chances?? Lucky me. I tell you this sled has been a nightmare since day one.
 
Thats where both of mine had hair line cracks. Got them tig welded and when i installed them i cut Mtn bike inner tube, and put in between exchanger and bracket so it wouldn't rub so much.
 
I had my exchangers crack in that same place 4 different times. Pain in the a** dealing with those front hoses.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top