2001 srx 700 rebuild

R

Ride.Race.Live

New member
Joined
Nov 4, 2008
Messages
616
Age
36
Location
Canada Ontario
So I got an email from sasksrx

he has 3 used pistons and a 99 cylinder he is willing to sell me...

he bought the 3 used pistons as extras incase of another melt down (his sled did the same thing mine did from what i understand) So he would personally use them in his own sled which must count for something...

Is it worth putting in used pistons and just buying new rings for them?
My funds are definately tight... and it would be tuff affording a new top end... but i rather do it right then take short cuts... What are all your opinions on this matter...


Also does a 99 cylinder fit all years srx's?

Thanks for your help!
 
Most of us are all the same...when rebuilding/refreshing our sleds we take the overkill route and replace pretty well everything. I personally don't even check my pistons wear when I have a sled apart...I just put new ones in.

The manuals have the clearance/wear specs for the cylinder/piston installation and if they meet the specs you definately could just rering the pistons and reuse them.

On the SRX 700s the 1998/99 cylinders have the same porting deck heights ect but Yamaha changed the porting on the 2000-2002s cylinders so it would be preferable to match the cylinders with similar ones but not a "Show Stopper" to mix them in a pinch.

Budgets and availability will always dictate the amount of good used parts that are reused in a rebuild...the bottom line on used parts is price and condition.

JM.02c
 
thanks for your opinion on this matter!... as it is... ill buy new pistons... and look for a 2000+ cylinder...

What would you guys think is better.... would I be hurting myself going with a cheaper aftermarket piston... such as the spx or spi pistons... (or they are called something like that) i heard they where pretty solid...

The reason im thinking of this is because my atv costed me abit more then i though to get it going right... and i think my funds are going to fall short on me for the sled to go back to oem pistons n stuff...
 
The subject of after market pistons for Yamaha's has come up many times.
IMO: Its not that there is anything wrong or a specific problem with the aftermarket pistons...its just that the OEM Yamaha pistons are "AS GOOD AS IT GETS".

Again I would let your budjet determine which pistons you use:
-good, in spec, used OEMs
-aftermarket piston kits
-new OEM
 
Yea I have read alot of threads about what pistons to use n so on... and 100% of ppl do say use oem over any other piston... i can relate to the grades of pistons n so on and usually get a good quality one for my engines... but havent ran into the whole i need 3 pistons in one shot situation lol...

it wouldnt be too bad for me to get oem if i didnt need to change a cylinder or two... thats what is making me debate on the oem...


now if i did end up going to an after market... am i just looking at changing the top end sooner with aftermarket then if i where to be using oem... if that is just the case... I would do jut a few seasons if it lasts on those after market.. then over the summer when it needs to be changed get the propper oem pistons.. if i didnt have to change the cylinders.... thats always a deal breaker...

You wouldnt go to used oem before new aftermarkets would you?

also... found pistons online.... there isnt a dif between the 98 99 and 00 pistons right?
 
Last edited:
There are a lot of Yamahas and other brand sleds, bikes ect out there running after market pistons, big bores, stockers + mods. The after market pistons should last as long as needed before a top end rebuild is required due to ring seal/wear, as long as there is nothing wrong with the engine/setup that would accelerate or create a problem. A lot of times someone burns down their sled and pops in a new piston and rings only to repeat the failure right... the after market piston gets blamed for the quick failure when it really is because the original issue was never solved!

Used OEM pistons are fine as long as they are in good condition and their cylinder clearances ect meet specs, you then can use OEM rings that I feel are superior.

All years of stock 700 SRXs and Vipers can interchange pistons even though there were some different part numbers over the years...I would not recommend you mix brands between the cylinders but again it can be + is done.

JM.02c
 
If you do go with AM pistons I would recomend the Wiseco Pro-Lites. They are a VERY GOOD piston regardless of heresay etc. As long as they have the proper clearance they will be fine. 15-20 years ago Wiseco pistons were nothing to write home about, but times have changed. Nothing wrong with Pro-Lites IMHO.
 
Awesome... well i found some brand new oem pistons for 85 a pop online... no rings... which is a pretty damn good price... if theres any left might plan on ordering them... just got to rack down the credit card a couple hundred before doing so... if they do sell before hand....

I am more then likely going to go aftermarket. I rather not be broke all winter and be unable to ride due to a low account... I already have one SPI or SPX piston brand new with rings never used (dont remember the exact name)... which my buddy more or less gave to me for free after selling his srx... Ill do abit more reaserch on them before I decided on those ones but yea.

Thanks for the reference netefrog I will be calling to price those out if I dont go with the pistons I already have.... and you are definately right about am pistons getting better over time... The only big down fall I ever really heard about wiseco is you really got to let the sled warm up properly for a while before taking off...which you are supposed to do anyways... they just have a bigger expansion them most pistons... (from the info ive read) wether its accurate or not i dont know...

One thing I do not beleive in is using different brand pistons in each cylinder... diferent grades and weights cant be too healthy on the engine...

That is def true about people blamming aftermarket for failures that werent fixed from the first time around.

I dont know if you remember but I made a thread a while ago.. and had mrviper help me out... I do beleive I have "cured and figured out my issue" or so i hope.

So the am pistons should be able to tuff it out for the period of time until I can get some cash for oem... not to mention... i would hate to be spending the big bucks on oem just to find out I didnt find the root cause.

I would think people would be better off with a aftermarket set up after a burn down... just incase the root cause wasnt fixed... (ofcourse depending on how the burn down happend) once you know its properly running you could swap the am for oems when your ready... I def would rather burn up am pistons over oem... I know im personally going to take my top end apart about half way through the season just to check up on the top end and see how its holding up to ensure no detonation or anything is occuring again like last season or from before. if it is... well atleast I know I didnt find the cause and could go from there and not shed tears knowing i just spent big bucks on a top end that didnt last...

The more I think about it... the more i feel better going with am for this season and just make sure the sled is going to hold up rather then spend the big bucks right away..

Thanks alot for your opinion and help sideshow! its appreciated! and thanks again netefrog
 
Last edited:
The only big down fall I ever really heard about wiseco is you really got to let the sled warm up properly for a while before taking off
Click to expand...

My sled has never had the top end redone at 12,500KMS with about 125psi/cylinder and I'll tell ya how I warm my sled up. I turn the key, pull the cord and I drive it. VERY easily for the first couple KMS. People think that letting their sled idle for 5 mins is going to bring everything up to proper temp. WRONG. Ya, if it's really cold I'll let it idle and work the choke until the revs even out, but that's it.

And something else that really burn my a$$. People start their sleds up for vids and what not and then killing the engine. A by-product of the internal combustion engines is water and if the engine is not operating hot enough to evaporate the water then it will pools in the 2-Stroke crankcase and will rust the bearings. I kidd you not, I have seen the water stains in the bottom of cases belonging to people who thought it was a good idea to start their sled up every month in the off season and let it idle for a good long time. :o|

Sorry, at any time tell me to :jack: and call me a :postwhore but I think everybody should know the :rulez: of 2-Stroke sleddin...
 
hey im all for peoples opinions and ideas... it can be informative and its good reading!

only time i would say something is if you started vering off and talking about something completely irelavent that isnt about something burning fuel while driving... if you can ride it and it burns gas... then its related hahaha


Imo... it is good to let it idle for a good 5-10 min... however I do know it is definately still not up to operating temp... you still require to baby it a few minutes atleast before giving her hell... the 5-10 mins lets the pistons expand a bit before reving it up..

starting it in the off season like you mentioned is a big thing people talked about here... i remember a pretty huge thread talking about that...and I agree with you... that is def a no go...

The reason I said that about wiseco is that they have a larger expansion rate then other pistons or something in those lines...

BTW... how is that clutch set up of yours? liking it? Im not too fond of my HC's awesome trail set up but sucks big ones for top end... like I hit 160 and it was gutless after that.. gets there fast but other then that....
 
I like my clutch setup. It's an overall improvement over stock. Not really a top end 2000' setup, but it's a good aggressive trail/lake setup.
 
Did 96mph in the 1/4 mile on the gun with a pre-studded track and a worn out belt. I'm not sure what it would do on the top end to be exact.
 
ahh ok not bad... thats what I got now... though its more or less cutting out at that point... did it have alot more get go aftert that point? or was she getting kinda slugish accelerating from that point?

I know im going to gain a good 5-10 kph ditching my 1.25 lug ripsaw with 196 studs going to a 1" 96 studded... but trying to get the most out of her...
 
Yes it was still pulling through the 1/4 mile. Not like it does off the line but it was still there. If you're looking for top speed i would suggest you go with a track setup like my new one, 3/4" full bar Camo trail track with 144 pre-punched holes and .875" megabites. It's the closest you can get to a speed track without actually droping the money on a speed track and chisels.
 
im not looking to get a speed track... just something that wont hold me back overly on the lake or weight it down like my track...

I could take out the studs n just ride it like that.... but seems like a crap load of work when i can sell it for the cost of a new non studded track...

just want more up top get go power... and less heavy track... if the track only had 96 studs or a little more i would of been good,.... just 196 you def can feel it
 
Netefrog said:
My sled has never had the top end redone at 12,500KMS with about 125psi/cylinder and I'll tell ya how I warm my sled up. I turn the key, pull the cord and I drive it. VERY easily for the first couple KMS. People think that letting their sled idle for 5 mins is going to bring everything up to proper temp. WRONG. Ya, if it's really cold I'll let it idle and work the choke until the revs even out, but that's it.
And something else that really burn my a$$. People start their sleds up for vids and what not and then killing the engine. A by-product of the internal combustion engines is water and if the engine is not operating hot enough to evaporate the water then it will pools in the 2-Stroke crankcase and will rust the bearings. I kidd you not, I have seen the water stains in the bottom of cases belonging to people who thought it was a good idea to start their sled up every month in the off season and let it idle for a good long time. :o|

Sorry, at any time tell me to :jack: and call me a :postwhore but I think everybody should know the :rulez: of 2-Stroke sleddin...
Click to expand...


Sorry dude , i got to disagree with that , and may be misleading to some
My 98 has no thermostat ,but an inline plug with a digital temp gauge
and my 00 has a thermostat with a digital temp gauge , and neither one moves untill water temp reaches 110..... no cold seizures this way !!!
 
harness racer said:
Sorry dude , i got to disagree with that , and may be misleading to some
My 98 has no thermostat ,but an inline plug with a digital temp gauge
and my 00 has a thermostat with a digital temp gauge , and neither one moves untill water temp reaches 110..... no cold seizures this way !!!
Click to expand...

I'm with you on this one. I have a digital temp gauge and on it the thermostat opens at about 107.5F. Then it drops to 101ish and climbs back up. At 110 I have good heat in the last heat exchanger and it's good to go. My wisecos' like a nice warm place to call home.
 
harness racer said:
Sorry dude , i got to disagree with that , and may be misleading to some
My 98 has no thermostat ,but an inline plug with a digital temp gauge
and my 00 has a thermostat with a digital temp gauge , and neither one moves untill water temp reaches 110..... no cold seizures this way !!!
Click to expand...

Don't apolagize man. Opinions/theories are like A-Holes, everybody has one. lol..
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top