YAMMIEGOD3:16
Active member
HAD TO REPLACE BOTH SHEAVES ON MY 1995 VMAX 4 800 GRASS DRAG SLED. VERY DANGEROUS CRACKS IN BOTH SHEAVES I COULD NOT TAKE ANY CHANCES OF A BOMB GOING OFF. I BOUGHT A HAUCK YAMAHA FIXED OVER DRIVE SHEAVE. ANY OF YOU GUYS EVER RUN THESE. 3:16 (yammie tony)
Hope you didn't spend that much. Not much b----r than oem.. unless......
extremelyfastmax4
New member
that over drive sheave will grab the belt a little better than the oem sheave and that is the issue with those as they have lots of belt slippage that we can not see and thats why they are cracking, aluminum doe,ent like heat. AL
Gear down 1 tooth on top to get the same final ratio as a stock shive.
Is it just me or doesn't it look like the belt sits on kind of an angle with the hauck sheave installed?
mopar1rules
Active member
i ran one a few years back, when i bought my viper. i had some belt slippage going on, but that could have been partly due to the hauck clutch kit that was in there too at the time. needless to say, i sold the 2 overdrive sheaves i had, and never got another one.
I am considering selling mine.
YAMMIEGOD3:16
Active member
I BOUGHT MINE FOR LESS THAN WHAT THE YAMAHA OEM COST, SO I GRABED IT. THIS IS GOING ON A SLED THAT IS GRASS DRAGED AND YES I PLAIN ON DROPPING GEARING ONE TOOTH. 3:16 (yammie tony)
When I picked up my 2002 SRX[used] it had an overdrive sheave on the primary...I never seemed to be able to get the clutching just right so I replaced the entire clutch with a new OEM. I have the over drive primary somewhere in parts heaven out in the shop as a spare. I run Team secondaries on all my sleds so clutch tunig can be a challenge even with the OEM primary.
harness racer
New member
norwegian said:
absolutely correct , belt tolerence is reduced by ading this thicker sheave,
Tony; i suggest you break specific belts to this sheave , im quite certain that the sheave angle is not the same as oem , i have tested alot with this , the wear tapper on the chasis side of the belt will be different then the outer side .
learned a leson when i wwent to an event with only one belt broke in to the sheave , ya you guessed it i blew it first run , spent the rest of the day wondering why the sled ran like s,,,,t , dreamed up all kind of excuses crank out of phase etc......
always wondered if the secondary inner sheave had the same angle if it would work more efficiently, as it is, under very little resistance it does work on ice , but due to the fact that there is less belt surface on the secondary inner sheave , expect under load like deeeper snow , to pull cor.ds and blow more belts . also may apply to you if your set up requires a stiff secondary spring and or a wrap greater then 70
vince
Last edited:
I'll be lookin for one also my primary is showing cracks near the shaft on both sides
jabber800
New member
Tony do yourself a favor and have the Hauck sheave cut to OEM angles! Been there done that. We used those on our 800 improver after blowing up 2 OEM sheaves. The Hauck billet sheave held up good but we could never get it to perform as well as the stock sheaves in a drag race until we cut the face angle. JMO but I would think if these funky angled clutch faces worked well all clutches would have it!!
YAMMIEGOD3:16
Active member
OK GUYS, WONDERING SOMETHING HERE. THE CONSENUS HERE LOOKS LIKE THESE ARE FAIR TO POOR. I HAVE READ MANY POSTS HERE HOW THE YAMAHA STOCK FIXED INNER SHEAVE WILL ONLY ALLOW BELT UP SO HIGH. AND THEY CRACK TO BOOT. WHATS THE ANSWER HERE THAN. LIKE I POSTED, THIS IS ON A VMAX 4 AND I WILL GET IT TO WORK. BESIDES LIKE I POSTED, IT WAS CHEAPER THAN OEM TO BUY. 3:16 (yammie tony)
jabber800
New member
Tony cut the face of the Hauck sheave. Done! No more problems with exploding clutch face. The stock face does not like to be run at 10,000 rpm.
Mac
Member
Tony what RPM are you turning?
I don't have any experience at ten thousand RPM. But I have turned 9300 RPM for over 9000 miles on my 780 Viper without exploding the clutch. No cracks either. I have not seen the Hauck inner sheath. Is it a much stronger design? I never really understood why it was a different angle anyway. Jabber has a great idea in machining the inner sheath. This is called blueprinting the clutch. If you want to make it perfect. Have a machinist true up the clutch shaft running absolutely perfect. Then machine the crank taper with a tool-post grinder. Now bolt the clutch shaft to the engine to measure run-out with an indicator. You can remove the clutch and index several times marking different locations and remounting to find out where the least run-out occurs. Once happy remount the shaft in the lathe then turn the fixed sheath so it now runs perfect. Assemble entire clutch and cut the movable face last. And don't forget to measure how bad your current setup runs out so you can compare the improvement. The only problem with doing all this is that you may decide to measure your run-out on your crank. Once you see how bad that is you may be pulling the crank to tru that perfect. Keep in mind this is what the PRO's do to get real fast. Lot and lots of work.
I don't have any experience at ten thousand RPM. But I have turned 9300 RPM for over 9000 miles on my 780 Viper without exploding the clutch. No cracks either. I have not seen the Hauck inner sheath. Is it a much stronger design? I never really understood why it was a different angle anyway. Jabber has a great idea in machining the inner sheath. This is called blueprinting the clutch. If you want to make it perfect. Have a machinist true up the clutch shaft running absolutely perfect. Then machine the crank taper with a tool-post grinder. Now bolt the clutch shaft to the engine to measure run-out with an indicator. You can remove the clutch and index several times marking different locations and remounting to find out where the least run-out occurs. Once happy remount the shaft in the lathe then turn the fixed sheath so it now runs perfect. Assemble entire clutch and cut the movable face last. And don't forget to measure how bad your current setup runs out so you can compare the improvement. The only problem with doing all this is that you may decide to measure your run-out on your crank. Once you see how bad that is you may be pulling the crank to tru that perfect. Keep in mind this is what the PRO's do to get real fast. Lot and lots of work.
YAMMIEGOD3:16
Active member
10,000, NOT EVEN CLOSE. I RUN THIS SLED AT 8350/8500. 3:16 (yammie tony)
Yamahasrx700
Member
Tony,
I have read all these posts and I cant believe what I am reading. I have used the sheave on my 95 vmax 600 and then put it on my 97 SX (12000 miles total). That kit was UNFRICKEN believable. I could not use it on my 2002 SRX so I sold it. People that raced me or rode either sled could not believe the acceleration difference. The people that do not see a benefit from this kit just don’t have it set up correctly, which is not that difficult. If you want to talk to me about it PM me with a number and I will call you.
I have read all these posts and I cant believe what I am reading. I have used the sheave on my 95 vmax 600 and then put it on my 97 SX (12000 miles total). That kit was UNFRICKEN believable. I could not use it on my 2002 SRX so I sold it. People that raced me or rode either sled could not believe the acceleration difference. The people that do not see a benefit from this kit just don’t have it set up correctly, which is not that difficult. If you want to talk to me about it PM me with a number and I will call you.
YAMMIEGOD3:16
Active member
LIKE I POSTED, FIRST I BOUGHT THIS NEW FOR ALOT LESS THAN THE OEM. SECOND ITS GOING ON A 95 VMAX 800 THAT IS JUST GRASS DRAG RACED, AND OF CORSE, THE OUTCOME I HOPE IS TO YET GEAR DOWN AND BE ABLE TO INPROVE 60 ft/ HOLESHOT TIMES. I AM WITH YA, I,LL GET IT TO WORK IF IT DON,T lol. 3:16 (yammie tony)