Cylinder removal issue

J

jminor1

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Oct 7, 2005
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Canada.
I am going to rerring my srx and I had no trouble getting off the number 1 cylinder but cannot for the life of me get #2 and 3 off!! Any tips??
 
Dead blow hammers are usually plastic with lead beads inside the head. You can hear them moving around in there when you shake it. They won't cause any damage to the cylinder so you can hit it pretty hard to break the base gasket seal loose.
 
JOSH , SEEN THIS OVER AND OVER WITH OLD VINTAGE SLEDS. ANYWHERE YOU POSSIBLEY CAN GET SOME PB BLASTER IN TO SOAK OVERNIGHT (a long shot ). ALSO TAKE A RUBBER MALLET AND KEEP TAPING THEM SIDE TO SIDE. MARK AND I HAD THAT HAPPEN ON A OLD INDY CENTURION 500 cc HE PICKED UP. ENDED UP USEING A BURNS-O-MATIC TO GET HEAT DOWN ON STUDS. 3:16 (yammie tony)
 
Tried soaking it with pb blaster. I am going to heat the base of the cylinders with a propane torch, a heat gun did nothing.
 
the steel dowels in the base are corroded into the cylinder,youll need heat from a mapp gas cylinder(mapp gas is way hotter then propane) to warm'em up then strike them with the deadblow hammer right at the square base in the rear,its the back thats holding it down.

ADD TIP: sometime s its easier if you leave the exh.manifolds on the cylinder and rock them back and forth front to back to get the dowels to come loose. when you do get them off remove the dowel and clean them up on wire wheel and smear a light coat of grease on them and it wont happen again.
 
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I have used an old wooden baseball bat stuck down the cylinder to rock them back and forth too. This was on older sleds, never on a yamaha triple.
 
Mr viper great tip on the manifold but after heating with the only thing I have, a propane torch, there is no movement..I can wiggle them but they will not let loose! I guess the motor now has to come out on the bench to get this right, great..where is the best ace to get an alignment bar for when this goes back together?
 
be alot easier to go to the hardware store and buy a cylinder of mapp gas,fits the same propane torch tip,much hotter.
when you use the manifold for leverage front to back you should be able to get it up off the dowels,or pull the dowels out of the case, heat it up ,smack it,then dribble pb blaster down stud holes when hot,keep doing this,they will break loose.


also,remove the coil pack so you can hit t he back square part of cylinders with dead blow hammer.
 
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How do you get the rowels out when you can't get the cylinders off? I will soak them down the studs and get the mapp gas tomorrow
 
the alignment dowels will either be stuck in the cylinder bottom or the case top when you do get it to let go, if in the case they come out easily with some heat and grabbing them by the open top, twisting as you pull up.. then again...lol ,sometimes they are rusted so bad you just grab em with vise grips and throw em away, put new ones in. :o|
Thats why I stock about 20 of these dowels at all times,the aluminum and metal combo fuses itself together. Keep at it,youll get it,some heat and pb blaster work the cylinder front and back.
 
jminor1 said:
How do you get the rowels out when you can't get the cylinders off? I will soak them down the studs and get the mapp gas tomorrow
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Get as much pb down the studs as you can. I'm not sure if you've seen them before or not, if you have then this will be for others looking to do this project.

In the pictures below, I have removed one of the dowel pins so that you can see the amount of space you're dealing with. You need to get enough pb in there to fill the entire space. The let it soak for a few hours.

There are only pins on the back 2 studs. You should still put some down the front as it will help with the gasket.

edit...it just realized you have seen this, because one cylinder came off. So this post is really for others. I figured why delete it.
 

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yeah I have the one off but thanks for the pics and tips. I have been soaking them with the PB blaster for some time and applying heat to them and then striking them with a dead blow on the bottom part of the cylinder and they are still stuck on the dowels!! Don I have been looking around for mapp gas but have not had luck in finding it yet..This is slowly turning into a nightmare..
 
Home Depot,Princess Auto and Canadian Tire have Mapp Gas in Canada,at least in Winnipeg..should be also in Ontario.If all else fails..throw the motor in the Freezer for a while,metal will shrink and then take out and try a quick tap..not to hard..lolll
 
bluemonster1 said:
Home Depot,Princess Auto and Canadian Tire have Mapp Gas in Canada,at least in Winnipeg..should be also in Ontario.If all else fails..throw the motor in the Freezer for a while,metal will shrink and then take out and try a quick tap..not to hard..lolll
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I was wondering if the freezer would work earlier.

We have a large heated parts washer that has worked in similar situations. But most people don't have access to one.

You could use the dishwasher, just make sure the wife doesn't come home before you run another cycle to clean it out. Or she'll remind you of the :rulez:
 
Well, I disassembled my motor today. Heads came off great. On the jugs the middle and clutch side gave me a small battle. I went out and bought a 2lb dead blow hammer from sears just for this. It definiatly made the difference. On the jugs I just soaked each stud W/ pb blaster for an hour then worked each jug from corner to corner W/ the hammer. And eventuially ther was enough play to tap them off. Good call on the dead blow hammer!!!!
 
jminor1 said:
Mr viper great tip on the manifold but after heating with the only thing I have, a propane torch, there is no movement..I can wiggle them but they will not let loose! I guess the motor now has to come out on the bench to get this right, great..where is the best ace to get an alignment bar for when this goes back together?
Click to expand...
Where about's in Canada are you?If you do end up taking the engine out I have a bar I will lend to you to line it back up.
 
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