deglazing a cylinder..look see

Nice video. I would have used a slower drill speed. Did the process actually break the glaze?? On the video it was not possible to see into the cylinder.
What grit stones did you have in the honing tool.

I guess Arctic Crap parts are good for something after all!!!
 
I wanted input on the speed..that is good.It is an old Cat cylinder that has some damage ,so thought of it late last night.Not really sure how long I should run the hone up and down,probably up and down 4 times.It is a 240 grit stone also.Could use low speed on drill instead,but have watched other videos on it and guy's seem to be running then fast...don't know.
 
I see one minor problem, the stones on that hone will NOT deglaze nicasil. You will need special nicasil stones. Check with Lisle Corp. they have them. 280 -320 would be my recommendation slow the speed down and try to attain a 45 degree crosshatch.
 
jamie said:
I see one minor problem, the stones on that hone will NOT deglaze nicasil. You will need special nicasil stones. Check with Lisle Corp. they have them. 280 -320 would be my recommendation slow the speed down and try to attain a 45 degree crosshatch.
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The cross hatch is already there on a nikasil coated cyl basically you are just removing any ring or piston material on the bore. The coating it is so hard that you will not be removing any material or making new crosshatches. The nikasil is only .002 inches thick.

Doug I would just use some wd or some atf and scub w a green scotchbrite and keep wiping away until your cloth is clean and your cyl are good to go. You are not going to make new crosshatches in the cyl and you dont wanna risk flaking around the ports. When I did that cr250 top end I had tons of visible vertical lines in the cyl from the piston scuffing but I couldnt feel any of those scratches w my fingernail. I used the scotchbrite pad and it took off all the aluminum that was on the cyl walls. Your cyl probably doesnt have those lines and shouldnt take much to deglaze them. After I was done I could see the crosshatching again but noticed it was wearing a little by the exaust port. I threw it together and got 185psi warm which is the stock compression for that year of motor.
 
Looks like the cordless drill probably should be on the slower (screw) setting. The stroke speed in the vid should be fine w/ the slower RPMs. An engine cylinder hone would produce a more even result vs the brake hone in the vid. Providing of course that one is available w/ the proper stone for the task at hand. But for what your doing.....that should be just fine. And use LOTS more oil/fluid to carry away any particulate.

Looks like a late 70's early 80's A/C jug.
 
bluemonster1 said:
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?t=40683&highlight=deglazing+cylinders

start reading after post #8 ..daman states it like it is..he is usually right.
Then what MrViper says about rings in post #51.

So maybe scotch brite or fine steel wool with ATF will do to de-glaze the cylinders..then wash good.
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Thats what I would do, I would be scared to catch a port edge w the tool. That tool is designed to remove material from a iron bore and restore/recut the crosshatches in the cyl. , when deglazing a nikasil cyl you arent removing any material or adding new crosshatches. The three finger hone WILL work but your not going to remove material( nor do u want to) or recrosshatch the cyl. Its going to do the same as a pad would w the risk of catching a port. So many opinions out there on this topic and others. like assembling the top end dry, some people prefer to lube everything, oil ratios/ type etc. There is different ways to doing everything i guess.
 
A couple of bucks said:
Looks like the cordless drill probably should be on the slower (screw) setting. The stroke speed in the vid should be fine w/ the slower RPMs. An engine cylinder hone would produce a more even result vs the brake hone in the vid. Providing of course that one is available w/ the proper stone for the task at hand. But for what your doing.....that should be just fine. And use LOTS more oil/fluid to carry away any particulate.

Looks like a late 70's early 80's A/C jug.
Click to expand...

With a nikasil cyl your not going to remove any material its harder than the stones on the hone, Honing is actually removing material, deglazing is not, the nikasil is only .002 in thick.
 
Bluemonster2 said:
With a nikasil cyl your not going to remove any material its harder than the stones on the hone, Honing is actually removing material, deglazing is not, the nikasil is only .002 in thick.
Click to expand...

Ring residue would be the only thing you'ld remove....more than likely.
 
you are convincing me there Scotty to use steel wool and ATF.Does it matter which way I clean?Do I do it in a circular motion from top to bottom?

PS:did Jamie go to the Banjo Bowl football game..he usually does....
 
Pretty sure Jamie went to the game , I don't think it matters which way u do it you don't have to worry about scatching the nikasil.
 
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