Rocket:
Those are ceramic coated, yes. I've seen pipes done with a shiny chrome color ceramic coat, but that was more $ and shows wear/ scratches more. I'm satisfied with this way.
Mike
Those are ceramic coated, yes. I've seen pipes done with a shiny chrome color ceramic coat, but that was more $ and shows wear/ scratches more. I'm satisfied with this way.
Mike
yup but what she dont know dont hurt her ...i do it at night while she is sleeping ......done some of my banshee parts too ....
A couple of bucks said:
killerklown
Member
I thought I read that curing paint in ovens released some chemicals, that you should never prepare food in an oven after something like this?
A couple of bucks said:
Sounds simular to the stuff I used.
As I said before, I have never had any luck rattle canning exhaust componants but I think it was due to poor prep and using exhaust heat to cure the coating. You paint them, get 'em dirty installing them and when it's time to bake them, the dirty/greasy spots bubble/flake off.
I did things a bit differently this time around including sand blasting/washing the to be painted areas. I also baked them in three stages as COB discribed above but used the wood burner in the man cave rather than risk the rath of my better half. I only coated the exposed pipe ends and dump/header tubes.
Prior to using the stuff I used last year, I'd have been an exclusive advocate for ceramic coatings. I Jet-Hotted some SLP pipes on my XCR and the durability of the coating was second to none. With my SRX, I wanted to retain the polished covers and couldn't see spending money on a coating I was going to cover anyhow. Year two and the finish still looks great.
Ride.Race.Live
New member
killerklown..
yea that is true... it has to be done a few times but after a while chemicals stick around in the oven which in turn arn't too healthy for ya when you cook food in there...
once in a while isnt toooo bad... but yea
yea that is true... it has to be done a few times but after a while chemicals stick around in the oven which in turn arn't too healthy for ya when you cook food in there...
once in a while isnt toooo bad... but yea
tcdesignguy
New member
VHT (Very Hight Temp) Good to over 2000 if I recall. I have tried many types, but this one has been the best for me.. The other trick is lots of thin coats. you get it at the auto parts stores in paint section. The standard 1500deg will come off
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
After I sandblasted the parts, I immediately primed them. I'm talking within minutes. Then I let them sit outside in the weather for a couple weeks before I put the paint on. The only reson I did this was to make sure I had removed absolutely everything and all contaminates from the surface. Sure enough, my three into one exhaust pipe had some rust coming through the primer. Reblasted the affected and surrounding areas, primed again, then did my 2000 deg paint job.
YooperMike
New member
Sorry to pull up an old thread, but I'm about to re-do some triples I picked up. I'm wondering what kind of media you guys have used to blast the pipes? I would think sand grit or steel would be too abrasive and blow holes in the pipes. I'm not experienced enough to be delicate. Would walnut shells be too soft? Should I go for a glass bead or plastic abrasive?
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shaggyzr2
Active member
Coal slag works good for blasting.
YooperMike said:
I used sand without a problem... on my OEM pipes.
YooperMike
New member
The SLP's are definitely thinner walled than a single pipe OEM. I just want to find the right media that will take off all of the junk/rust and not blow thru.
I used sand on my AAENS pipes with no problem.
YooperMike
New member
After further review and checking with my local 'garage of knowledge', regular sand will work for me. It's just a small home blaster with no more than 100 psi running it, so I shouldn't blow thru. I picked up the VHT paint, now I need to find an oven.