00SRXWHERRY said:Next I had to grind down the axcess off the inside. In this process the spring and the little ball in the zirk fitting fell out answering my question of why the stock ones didn't have that little ball in them.
FWIW - I filled in the area between the two gussets with the mig, drilled and tapped the hole and used a standard/short zerk fitting. This negates having to use a long zerk fitting and also retains the spring and sealing ball inside the zerk. A little hard on the tap due to the hard filler wire from the mig but it worked. Plus my zerk ain't oozing all over.
00SRXWHERRY
New member
Ok got some more done today. First I had to buy some hard wear to tighen up what I call the H Bar. I bought two different kinds of washers on top of the 1 yamaha uses. The fat washer is the yamaha I reused, the other are the ones I bought from the hardwear store.
00SRXWHERRY
New member
Next everywhere there was a plastic bushing I shimmed W/ tin as shown before. I also shimmed the two scisor bars.
Ok, here is the bottom end of the transfer rods wher I added 45 deg. zirks. It was the same process as I did for the W/ bar. Drilled then tapped srewed in the zirk and ground the axcess off to be flush. I put the zirks on the bottom facing outward.
Ok, here is the bottom end of the transfer rods wher I added 45 deg. zirks. It was the same process as I did for the W/ bar. Drilled then tapped srewed in the zirk and ground the axcess off to be flush. I put the zirks on the bottom facing outward.
00SRXWHERRY
New member
Ok next was the top of the H bar. I hope my pic helps because it was hard to explain. This process has steps so it works.
-Put plastic bushings W/ tin Shim on H bar tube
-Put plastic bushing W/ tin in top end of transfer rods
-Next slide the rod in but as you get the rod between the inside of the transfer rod a H bar tube side in the lg flanged washer that was bought from the heard wear store. Continue sliding the bar threw (this will take finess and patients because W/ the tin everthing is so tight) when you get to the other end do the same as before and slide in the lg flange washer in. Then push the bar untill even on both sides
-next on both ends a lg flange washer then the yamaha fat washer
-next pound on the wheels tight then make them even so that the end caps fit equill on the outside
MY SPELLING SUCKS
-Put plastic bushings W/ tin Shim on H bar tube
-Put plastic bushing W/ tin in top end of transfer rods
-Next slide the rod in but as you get the rod between the inside of the transfer rod a H bar tube side in the lg flanged washer that was bought from the heard wear store. Continue sliding the bar threw (this will take finess and patients because W/ the tin everthing is so tight) when you get to the other end do the same as before and slide in the lg flange washer in. Then push the bar untill even on both sides
-next on both ends a lg flange washer then the yamaha fat washer
-next pound on the wheels tight then make them even so that the end caps fit equill on the outside
MY SPELLING SUCKS
00SRXWHERRY
New member
Overall pic
SWEDE
New member
Your doing a very nice job on that skidframe!
super1c
Super Moderator
Im right with ya on that. I did it exactly like you did. Man was the skid tight after. I got my ohlins installed and the skid back in. was a little freaked out how the ohlins were so loose in the skid and i even had new bushings/bearings put in. Not sure on that. Let me know if you have diff results once you get your shocks in. CCC
00SRXWHERRY
New member
Well as you guys have read I got scammed by Back-On-Blue on the front W/ bar shock. I was suppose to have a Ohlins YA641 to replace the stock aluninum kabya. So untill I find another ohlins the kabya is going in (I will be diong the berring mod for that as well). In the rear the skid is getting Ohlins YA202 that has been shortened, re-springed and revalved to be the sane length as the stock kabya.
I would weld my suspension solid and see a chiropractor before I put a skidoo suspension
in my yamaha.. Shame on you
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
Kinda like riding a Harley hard tail?
bluewho
Active member
The only shame is yamahas poor design and not trying to upgrade a bad skidframe but stick with it for 10 years or so when
everybody else was improving every other year.These are old sleds now whatever keeps them on the trail is all that maters!IMO
In all fairness the Proaction suspension was one of the best available when it debuted. I agree that Yamaha tried to ride it (pun intended) far too long. By the late 90's / early 2000's it was far behind the competition. This was the era that saw great advancement in suspensions, including the M10.
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
Cooper0809
New member
Since I've got my skid out to replace my W arm I'm going to tighten my skid up and definitely JB weld where you did also, I noticed mine has lots of play also. Very nice write up btw!!! Skid looks ace!
