Parking / E - Brake

[axapowell]

So I read all of the threads on how to remove and replace my track before I started and even printed off a few of the tips...

Got the old track off and am just about ready to re-install the new one. (BTW thanks for the help in deciding wich track and studs to go with: 02 stock Viper, 1" hacksaw pre-drilled with 144 Woodys Golddiggers up the middle)

The parking brake had to be dis assembled to get the case off, no two ways about it. The rotor wouldn't budge and I really couldn't see damaging it to remove it.

Help me re-assemble the parking brake!!! I've read and read about it, but no one steped up to actually tell how to put it back together. My bearings will be here by Thursday, so I need some tips. I will put it back on, so advice to just leave it off is not welcomed!



Dave

 

[sideshowBob]

I have removed the parking brakes and levers/cables on my two SXs and my 2002 SRX...the only trouble with this is any tiime I leave my sled on any kind of a grade I have to stick one of my skiis into the back of one of my riding buddies sleds or it rolls away! I guess I could counteract this by blocking or tying the brake lever to apply the normal brake when parked.
Bob

 

[grapeape]

easiest way is to put the brake system together on the chaincase half, and install the brake rotor, key and chaincase half all as one assembly. Otherwise install the top half of the brake system, install as you removed everything, then do the "lower" half of the parking brake after the back half of the chaincase is installed. Side note If you loosen the transfer rod lower bolts, it removes the preload off the rear shock. Install skid bolts, front,center, rear, then tighten ack up the transfer rod bolts.

 

[axapowell]

easiest way is to put the brake system together on the chaincase half, and install the brake rotor, key and chaincase half all as one assembly. Otherwise install the top half of the brake system, install as you removed everything, then do the "lower" half of the parking brake after the back half of the chaincase is installed. Side note If you loosen the transfer rod lower bolts, it removes the preload off the rear shock. Install skid bolts, front,center, rear, then tighten ack up the transfer rod bolts.

Thanks Grape...Don't think I'm going to mess with trying to get the rotor off. Mabye I'll give it a love tap, but I don't think it'll budge. It's just pressed on with the key? I'll look again tonight, but I thought that it has some sort of collar. Otherwise, I'll do the half and half trick. Thanks!!!

Dave

 

[jay87lx]

So I read all of the threads on how to remove and replace my track before I started and even printed off a few of the tips...

where are the threads? are they step by step? in tech?

 

[grapeape]

rotor could be rusted to the upper shaft and key, but it is not a press fit, PB blast it if it is rusted. jay there should be info in the tech section. If I get a 2 stroke that needs a track swapped, I need someone to take pictures of the "tricks" so I can keep to my time I give myself for a project.

 

[crewchief47]

Thanks Grape...Don't think I'm going to mess with trying to get the rotor off. Mabye I'll give it a love tap, but I don't think it'll budge. It's just pressed on with the key? I'll look again tonight, but I thought that it has some sort of collar. Otherwise, I'll do the half and half trick. Thanks!!!

Dave

It's not even pressed on. More than likely it is now rusted on. Just a square key on the hub/shaft. I destroyed the one on my Venture/rage project trying to get it off, it was that bad. I would throw a puller on there real quick and see if it starts moving easily. If it does, take it off.

 

[axapowell]

The collar I spoke of goes into the rear of the chain case and creates a spacer between the seal, bearing, and the rotor. The collar has an o-ring in the inside center and will slide right off the shaft, then allowing me to remove the rotor. Wasn't rusted on, just didn't know how to remove that collar.

Ended up putting the e-brake assembly back together on the bench as Grape said and putting the chain case and rotor back on the shafts together. Not too bad a deal that way, just remember to not tighten the e-brake bolt all the way, but remember to put the double nuts back on.

Loosening the transfer rod bolts worked like a charm too! I took them right out for maximum flexability!

Ok, thanks again guys for the tips!! This site is a huge help when we "do it yourselfers" need support!