dooman333
New member
What methods of gaining some free (or next to free) Horsepower have you guys heard of?
All I know of is the exhaust bore out.
All I know of is the exhaust bore out.

Loose weight!
Hands down the best method of going faster!
Mdmatt
Hands down the best method of going faster!
Mdmatt
SX_SLAYER
New member
thin head gasket mod on the redheads, vforce or carbon tech reeds, a well setup (jetted and clutched) sled, exhaust bore out, losing weight.
stickers add 5hp each, there cheap! ehehehe. buy some and plaster your sled full, it makes you look fast!
stickers add 5hp each, there cheap! ehehehe. buy some and plaster your sled full, it makes you look fast!
suspension set up is a huge factor. clutching and jetting are very cheap and very effective. These three things can make a great sled suck if not done right. but all the power in the world wont make a difference without a good track. thats number one in my book.
ottawaair
New member
your avatar is proof positive that you are a firm believer in more track. how long is that thing?
lol. 136 by 1.25 and its not nearly enough for the max4. might be going 144 by 1.5 next year. that ones my ditch banger though, so no 2 inch paddles. and definitely tip-up rails if i do go 144
Do everything I did adam, I can help you with the clutch set up, Turk gave it to me.
true-up jack shaft
ture-up drive shaft then have drivers put on and true them to the drive shaft
Set jack/drive shafts square to chassis
Do the stuff to the suspension listed in just about any post from betheviper
square the suspension to the chassis
square the front suspension to rear and then set 1/8" total toe-out
Turn all the idler wheels round (freeze them then turn them)
drastically reduces driveline drag, friction and vibration and frees up a lot of HP to get to the track.
ture-up drive shaft then have drivers put on and true them to the drive shaft
Set jack/drive shafts square to chassis
Do the stuff to the suspension listed in just about any post from betheviper
square the suspension to the chassis
square the front suspension to rear and then set 1/8" total toe-out
Turn all the idler wheels round (freeze them then turn them)
drastically reduces driveline drag, friction and vibration and frees up a lot of HP to get to the track.
reed notch is free as well. head gasket i would stay away from because of the ethenol in all the gas now-a-days.
dooman333
New member
Mills said:true-up jack shaft
ture-up drive shaft then have drivers put on and true them to the drive shaft
Set jack/drive shafts square to chassis
Do the stuff to the suspension listed in just about any post from betheviper
square the suspension to the chassis
square the front suspension to rear and then set 1/8" total toe-out
Turn all the idler wheels round (freeze them then turn them)
drastically reduces driveline drag, friction and vibration and frees up a lot of HP to get to the track.


ErikBerg
New member
Lose weight. 

You obviously havent me dooman333........theres no weight to lose lol
extremelyfastmax4
New member
u want free hp blue print ur engine and chassi and the rest will look at ur mud flap all day long
SamuelJackson said:Ok I have done porting job and going to rebuilt engine at sunday. Exhaust port got quite much bigger than stock. I also had to open intake port too.
I was surprised how easy porting was to do just following good instructions.
I keep you informed how engine works and feels after porting.
Very interested in your findings, thinking about doing my vmax 800
Excitabletom
Member
Don't foget the Monster stickers for the hood. That adds 5 hp I hear.
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
dooman333 said:I had a boner once I cleaned my carbs by myself for the first time.
That's funny
Sniff, scratch and grab yourself. Pound on chest and make tarzan noises.