interesting read on engine break-in


It odesn't say anything about GAS PORTED pistons... There is a lot of good reading there EXCEPT the part about synthetic oil... Whatever he said about 80% and the other 20% takes a long time to break in,, YOU WANT the 20% to last a LONGER TIME.. The rings will break in FAST ENOUGH !!!! You want the 80% to last a longer time too.. I don't agree that you should break in a GAS PORTED piston engine ANY MORE than a HALF A DOZEN dyno pulls with conventional oil.. in FACT,, MY 572 WORLD PRODUCTS engine broke in JUST FINE with KLOTZ ESTORLIN 20W50 on the SEVEN DYNO PULLS last week!!!!
 
breaking a 2 stroke motor in on synthetic oil is JUST FINE !!!! I've broke in a BUNCH of them !!!! It reduces HOT SPOTS and reduces the chance of DAMAGING the piston rings if you have a TOO AGRESSIVE hone job !!!! SYNTHETIC oil is SAFER to break in a NEW TWO STROKE ENGINE than using a conventional oil.. WHY do you think they tell you to DOUBLE THE OIL on your first tankful ( conventional oil) OR TO PREMIX... BECAUSE the oil lubricates better at 32 to 1 than 64 to 1.. SYNTHETIC oil you DO NOT HAVE TO DOUBLE THE OIL to achieve the same results!!!!! ALTHOUGH is is a GREAT IDEA to DOUBLE THE OIL or to PREMIX even with SYNTHETIC OIL !!!!! You'd RATHER foul out a set of plugs than hurt piston rings !!! if rings get TOO HOT ( friction from a rough hone job) they lose some of their "spring" or SURFACE TENSION and lose their ability to SEAL !!!!! SYNTHETIC OIL helps to prevent that !!!!
 
so,, don't ALWAYS believe whatever you READ !!!!! Although it has a LOT OF GOOD INFO,,, I would DISAGREE BIGTIME about his claims about SYNTHETIC OILS... USE KLOTZ !!! it works fine !!! I use it in my RACECAR ENGINE !!!!
 
the thing I found the most interesting is just don't baby the motor.You have to give her a bit to seal the rings in properly.What do most of you guys do after rebuilding a motor for break-in??Like to hear some of your stories on it.
 
I always heat cycle an engine at rpms under 1200 to full opporating temp then shut it down and let it cool...... to seal gaskets and re-torque bolts and nuts, just dbl check everything!!!

then like he said for the first day or two of riding, short bursts of throttle..... never long constant rpms of any range.....

then rip it as hard as I can!!! 'till I get tired, break something else, or the anger is gone!!!!
 
Well very good read Doug, I agree about not using synthetic on a fresh engine as well. You could use regular oil for the whole life of the sled and you would probably just have dirtier power valves, not gonna hurt nothing. I would switch to synthetic after you break the motor in. And I dont know about people adding double the amount of oil to there tank as that is a big no no, I would adjust the pump closer to stock setting though. So basically to sum the article up you are progressively running the sled harder and not babying it or idling it for any given amount of time, Excessive running in the garage does nothing.
Putt-Putting ( Babying) the motor for the first hour does nothing.
Some exotic battery of timed heat cycles, cooling off, more cycles, more cooling is hogwash.

The basic fact is that by slowly bringing the piston to size, and at a controlled rate, it's allowed mate to the cylinder wall properly where it can have a long life.
 
My opinion

On two stroke engines I agree with Gary that synthetic oil is fine for break in. I disagree with his comment about ring "spring" because it is the compression that pushes the rings out against the cylinder wall and causes them to seal better. The "spring" in the ring is insignificant. The value in the Mototune article....and I think it is a great article....is in the "short hard burst" suggestion and the adequate cooling between cycles and not getting it too hot during actual break in.

Madmatt
 
Madmatt said:
On two stroke engines I agree with Gary that synthetic oil is fine for break in. I disagree with his comment about ring "spring" because it is the compression that pushes the rings out against the cylinder wall and causes them to seal better. The "spring" in the ring is insignificant. The value in the Mototune article....and I think it is a great article....is in the "short hard burst" suggestion and the adequate cooling between cycles and not getting it too hot during actual break in.

Madmatt
Click to expand...
Unless your pistons are "gas ported" the compression PINS the ring to the bottom of the ring groove and DOES NOT aid in pushing the ring against the cylinder walls... The "spring" in the ring is ALL YOU HAVE.. thats why ring gaps are so important!!! SOME RINGS are cut on an angle, which describes your action of "pushing" the TOP RING,,, but,, I haven't seen rings like that since the 1970's.. They didn't work too well because they kept getting stuck by the carbon buildup in the combustion chamber !!! (right above the top ring)
 
nosboy said:
Unless your pistons are "gas ported" the compression PINS the ring to the bottom of the ring groove and DOES NOT aid in pushing the ring against the cylinder walls... The "spring" in the ring is ALL YOU HAVE.. thats why ring gaps are so important!!! SOME RINGS are cut on an angle, which describes your action of "pushing" the TOP RING,,, but,, I haven't seen rings like that since the 1970's.. They didn't work too well because they kept getting stuck by the carbon buildup in the combustion chamber !!! (right above the top ring)
Click to expand...


Haven't looked at the profile of an SRX ring, but my monoblock Polaris had tappered rings (1996) both OEM and Wiseco, top and bottom.
 
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