Track install on '01 SRX

jay87lx

jay87lx

New member
Joined
Oct 22, 2009
Messages
249
Age
58
Location
Mass
What is the difficulty level of installing a track on an '01SRX?
I called one dealer and asked what they would charge if I bought the track,(Hacksaw 9009H from CB for $400) They said they wouldn't even do it unless I bought it from them, their price is $800 plus $320 for install. The other place I called will do it for $205 but their reputaion for service from my persoanl experience is not that good.
Who here has installed their own and what is the difficulty level?
 
Track swap is pretty straightforward if you know a little about wrenching. Drop the skid, pull the pipes, pull the chaincase, pull the bearing on the pto side, slide shaft out. Reinstall everything. Having done them multiple times, I don't think much of it, but the first time took an evening or two. Now I'd say less than 2 hours easy, with beer breaks and yelling at the football game on the TV. Just take your time and pay attention to how it comes apart so that you know which spacer goes where and such things.
 
If you can use tools you can do this. I changed my 02 viper track out last spring and it went well. Do a search, lots of info on track change. Also the write up in the tech section was really good. The parts are a bit diff looking but the steps are all the same. Just take lots of pics as you take it apart and label the pieces on a big piece of cardboard as you take them apart. This worked great for me. If your going to do it start hitting the bearing behind the speedo cover with PB blaster as this one was know to rust on. Most important the guys here know way more than any dealer does. I bet most dealers will be reading out of book the same as you will. CCC
 
Are there any bearings or gaskets or anything that usually needs to be replaced when doing a track? The sled is super clean so i dont think any parts will be rusted
 
Check the suspension over real well while its out. The driveshaft bearing on the pto side is the only one that is really known to fail. The chaincase gasket is reusable. That's it really for gaskets or seals.
 
Does the belly pan sides need to come off? I am just wondering how the axle will pull out? I am not in front of my sled now so I am just going off of memory
 
It's easy to do as long as you have a bit of mechanical sense & some tools. I figured out how to do mine by myself. As others have said, take your time & pay attention to how things come apart & be organized (especially with the chaincase). I'd recommend getting your hands on the service manual for your sled. I have one - PM me if you'd like a copy. It's good thing to have. You'll also need a bottle of chaincase oil. If you aren't sure on something take a picture and post it, all the help you need is right here.
 
If you were going to install gears for better accelaration and top speed would it be better to do it when you are doing the track?

I think over time I want to end up with a potent machine for the lake while maintaining reliability- I would like to keep the engine mostly stock and do this with clutching, gears and track. maybe get a Bender performance set up.
We have a house on Sebago Lake in Maine and thats where I woulld do most of the riding and also have an interest in radar runs in the stock class for fun
 
It would be a good idea to change the gearing while changing the track because you need to take the gears out anyway. I would be intrested in the track your replacing as I live in Mass also.
 
jay-s said:
Are there any bearings or gaskets or anything that usually needs to be replaced when doing a track? The sled is super clean so i dont think any parts will be rusted
Click to expand...


IMO - the biggest factor in the formation of rust is the fact the thing sits for 9 months out of the year. Just because it's clean on the outside doesn't mean nothing is rusting. In fact, there may be a better chance if it's been left to dry on it's own after washings. An example would be the trailing arms on my sled. When I long traveled my sled I powder coated both trailing arms. They looked pristine until I unbolted them. The rust inside made 'em sound like a salt shaker.

I spray EVERYTHING with silicone spray for storage and still had hidden rust.

Regardless of condition, I'd at least replace the PTO side driveshaft bearing if it's the original while you're in there.

Go ahead. If you get stuck just post back for help.
 
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