SamuelJackson
Member
Thanks for advise. I will try 8100-8200 rpm.
-sami-
-sami-
SamuelJackson
Member
Thank you Denkel
Every info from tech sheet of vmax to porting advise of srv is welcome. Tomorrow I will change new track to vmax. Going to try 128x15x1.75 snoX track
Every info from tech sheet of vmax to porting advise of srv is welcome. Tomorrow I will change new track to vmax. Going to try 128x15x1.75 snoX track
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
So give us your honest opinion about this kit and the project as a whole.
SamuelJackson
Member
Ok here it goes.
Engine it sharper and little bit powerful. It took half a second away 660ft time compared to last season when it was stock. I am now running same times what -10 xrs doo 600etec did last winter. I measured both sleds several times many different days. So gaining performance kit done what it promised.
And doing job by my self was easier than i thought. If you can rebuild your engine you can do this too!
Cant say anything about fuel economy yet. And when I get change to race other sleds I will keep U informed how it goes.
After season I will open engine and check possible piston worns etc.
-sami-
Engine it sharper and little bit powerful. It took half a second away 660ft time compared to last season when it was stock. I am now running same times what -10 xrs doo 600etec did last winter. I measured both sleds several times many different days. So gaining performance kit done what it promised.
And doing job by my self was easier than i thought. If you can rebuild your engine you can do this too!
Cant say anything about fuel economy yet. And when I get change to race other sleds I will keep U informed how it goes.
After season I will open engine and check possible piston worns etc.
-sami-
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mopar1rules
Active member
SamuelJackson said:Ok here it goes.
Engine it sharper and little bit powerful. It took half a second away 660ft time compared to last season when it was stock. I am now running same times what -10 xrs doo 600etec did last winter. I measured both sleds several times many different days. So gaining performance kit done what it promised.
And doing job by my self was easier than i thought. If you can rebuild your engine you can do this too!
Cant say anything about fuel economy yet. And when I get change to race other sleds I will keep U informed how it goes.
After season I will open engine and check possible piston worns etc.
-sami-
i don't know if i would go ahead and say that. you still need to have a steady hand for sure, need to know how to properly angle/taper the exhaust port, from the cylinder wall, down to the port exit, you need to know how to properly chamfer the port, need to know what burrs to use and how to use them. i know people that can rebuild engines, but can't port, and won't try neither. porting is a different catagory in its own.....IMO.
toydoc
Member
mopar1rules said:i don't know if i would go ahead and say that. you still need to have a steady hand for sure, need to know how to properly angle/taper the exhaust port, from the cylinder wall, down to the port exit, you need to know how to properly chamfer the port, need to know what burrs to use and how to use them. i know people that can rebuild engines, but can't port, and won't try neither. porting is a different catagory in its own.....IMO.
Thats also why John from race logic didn't want people to play with the transfer ports. The wrong roof angle on transfer port can hurt hp. Most have no way to know if they have it right. Most people will open the transfer port, but not take the new roof angle all the way to back wall. Flow then shoots up and not at each other. Hp gain is out the window. Without a dyno you would never know it.
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SamuelJackson
Member
You need steady hand thats sure. And you have to be interested to do job by our self and dont hurry, take your time. Instructions are really good, job is done from outside of cylinder via exhaust and intake port. So you dont have to take grinder into cylinder that way you avoid grinder slip to cylinder wall 
