Anti freeze leak

L

LoneViper

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Jan 30, 2004
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Location
Great Falls Montana
I have an 03 Mtn Viper, the other day I noticed antifreeze in the belly pan area. I wiped every thing down and thought sure it was comming from the water pump cover. No luck, there seems to be a small weep hole on the bottom of the engine case and my leak is from there.

I would assume this is a pretty good indicator that the pump seal is out or going out.

Question, has anyone dealt with this before?
It looks to me like a dealer project.

Thanks for the info
 
So I have been told, one of our closer dealers that I trust, says it is easier to pull the engine and work on out in the open. This I can believe, at least I'll get the cluches aligned.

Thanks
 
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I pulled the seal out. It is not too bad of a job. Remove exhaust, Drain coolant ( I did this by pulling the hose from the waterpump cover to carb heater off at the carb and sticking a smaller hose inside it. You can then siphon the coolant out all the way down to the waterpump. Very neat!) Remove the water pump cover then the impeller. There are two spots on the seal where you can pry it out of the engine, be very careful. Then remove the seal in the impeller, it just pulls it out. You will need some type of driver to drive new seal back in engine block.(Short piece of pipe) Be VERY careful not to touch the sealing surfaces on the new seal. Put them together DRY. I am also replacing the washer on the bolt that holds the impeller on. That is a seal also.
Good luck!

11H-12438-00-00 Mechanical seal
90210-06001-00 Rubber washer
 
I was wondering if mine was leaking. I had a black line down from the weep hole but no antifreeze. Did you have to replace the o-ring in the cover or did it stay in tack. Thanks TD
 
Thanks for the info, that is what I was looking for.

Question, Does the drive shaft stay in the case ? You must pull the seal down the impeller shaft and out.

Thanks
 
The shaft stays in the case. If you buy the seals first you will see what I am talking about. The O-ring on the cover should be fine to reuse but it's up to you. A little blue loctite on the impeller bolt doesn't hurt either.
 
I've currently have my 02 sx600r apart because of this problem. What did you use to pull the mechanical seal out? I ended up with the spring pulling out first. Do you get ahold of the metal sleave of the seal? I'm flustered with it at the moment. Thanks for any help.
 
antifreeze leak

i had the same problem last year. had to replace yhe mechanical seal.when you reinstall the impeller and replace that washer , you have to use some kind of glue(yamaha???) and let it cure for 24 hrs before replacing antifreeze.if not it will leak thru impeller shaft and you have wasted time and effort
 
yamie 1,

Where exactly did you put the sealer? The only place I see that it was originally put is on the back side of the mechanical seal cap......the blue stuff. Did you put it somewhere else besides that?

Jon
 
Just yank the spring out first. Then carefully pry on the seal housing lip in the 2 spots where you can get access to it. You may have to drive the lip in a little and grab on it with a pair of dykes if you can. Patiently work at it and it will come out. DO NOT SCRATCH OR DAMAGE THE SEAL BORE OR YOU MAY BE LOOKING FOR A NEW SET OF CASES. As far as sealer or glue I don't put any on the washer or seal. That blue stuff on the seal is loctite sealer. That little rubber washer on the impeller bolt is pretty pricey!
 
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Another thing, if you buy the seal first you will see exactly what you need to do. Again DO NOT TOUCH THE SEALING SURFACES AND PUT THEM TOGETHER DRY.
 
Would you replace the seal that is just after the weep hole and before the retainer clip as well? or just replace the mechanical seal and impeller nut seal?

(finally got the metal cap of the mechanical seal out...pain in the @#!@)
 
Unfortunately, I scuffed the edge of the lip a bit. Looking closely, it really doesn't go any deeper than the two beveled edges on the case meant for prying that booger out of there. Hopefully (fingers crossed), it won't cause any problems when put back together. Wow, that thing was a monster to get out.

Speedracer, you're saying you didn't use any sealer whatsoever? No blue stuff to replace the old blue stuff? Nothing on the nut/washer?

yamajake, I'm also replacing the oil seal you're referring to. I figured since I'm in there, I might as well do that one too.

Man, this project (without taking the engine off) is tougher than expected.

Jon
 
ecopter,
from reading the posts, I new there would be difficulty in it. I just couldn't see swallowing the dealer cost of $315 for the repair when the parts are so inexpensive.

When you pulled that last seal before the circlip, did oil from the crankcase come out? I've heard there is 7oz of oil behind it. I read a post to start the sled once repairs are complete and hold the oil pump wide open while sled is at idle for several minutes. Should fill that 7oz spot back up.
 
That blue stuff your talking about is already on the new seal. Don't add anything else. I also wouldn't put anthing on the seal washer under the impeller bolt. I don't see where it is needed. Also don't put any type of sealer on the seal that goes in the back of the impeller, put together dry. I would put some blue loctite on the impeller bolt for added protection. I don't think any scuffs or marks on the beveled portion only will hurt anything.
 
I think that someone should write up a how to with pictures for this since so many people have to fix it. I haven't deceided if I'm going to fix mine or if I'm going to take it to the dealer to fix it.

How hard is it to replace the seals without taking the motor out?
 
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