HARD Viper Start after a long sit...

akrievins

akrievins

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So I see this question a lot on here.
Vipers are hard to start after sitting over the summer, even after a month, or after a rebuild.

Seems like the only solution is to pull plugs, dump some fuel down each cylinder, replace plugs, and fire it up.

At the beginning of each sledding season, I have to do this at least a half dozen times until it stays running. This is a pain in the A$$!
Why is that it takes so long to get fuel to the carbs? Before putting fuel down the jugs I have already pulled on the rope close to 100 times!

Who has installed a "squeeze ball" type primer? I think this is the only real viable solution.

Thoughts...
 
Not sure why your viper is hard to start. I know the SRX's can be a tough go but i didnt know the vipers were prone to that. Both mine after sitting all summer with dry carbs started in 3-4 pulls, and the first 2 were to just get things moving again. A trick i learned here which is supposed to prime the carbs is to move the primary back and forth about 6 times. Seems to work great. My ol 96xt which used to take about 100 pulls in the fall is even cut down to about 20 with no help from gas down the plug holes. Worth a try for you. But unless im mistaken you viper shouldnt be that hard to get started. Hopefully others will post to see what theirs are like. CCC
 
My SX 700 is a bitch to start after the long summer months. With the head milled .020 the compression is higher than the Viper so It is tough to pull. I usually just pull out of the trailer, set on a stand and immidialy pull the carbs, don't even try to start up. Once the carbs are cleaned and reinstalled, I pressurize the fuel tank with compressed air. This pushes fuel into each carb. From then on it is easy to start. Same procedure is used on the Viper also. Al
 
alswagg said:
My SX 700 is a bitch to start after the long summer months. With the head milled .020 the compression is higher than the Viper so It is tough to pull. I usually just pull out of the trailer, set on a stand and immidialy pull the carbs, don't even try to start up. Once the carbs are cleaned and reinstalled, I pressurize the fuel tank with compressed air. This pushes fuel into each carb. From then on it is easy to start. Same procedure is used on the Viper also. Al
Click to expand...

Ditto here. With the #$%&* fuel we have here, it's pretty much mandatory to pull the carbs and give them and the pilots a good going through. Just the nature of the beast.
 
do you clean the carbs each season? stupid question, but that might be the problem.

EDIT: lol, i see this has been suggested already, nevermind.... ;)! :o|
 
no offense but these sleds should fire right up when everything is in good working cond check fuel pump,make sure carbs are clean, ignition,also check comp even after cleaning carbs my 03 viper fire in 3-5 pulls if i had to dump gas in jugs i would go nuts
 
I've read that a few others have the same problem.

I've always used premium octane and Stabil over the summer.
Just doesn't seem to be getting fuel after a long time of sitting.
Once it gets going there are no problems. Runs like a top. Stars with a 1/4 tug on the rope when warm with no holding the throttle. Just seems so tough to get that initial prime after a long slumber.

I've never had the carbs cleaned... :(
I've done the PV's myself every year, but carbs just seem too difficult.
I know I'm gonna hear it from you guys for not cleaning carbs... Maybe it's time to bring it in.
 
I don't even bother pulling it once without putting mixed gas in the plug holes (after sitting all summer). Un-necessary wear and tear on me and the pull start. I figure this also insures I'm getting oil in the cyls. on the first pull.
 
Well why even try to run before you clean the carbs. You know the carbs should be cleaned anyway. Carb cleaning is a ritual we have with every sled. While the carbs are being cleaned, good time to inpect and repack every boggy brg, replace chain case oil, repack drive axle brgs. Remember to inspect clutches and wear bars. Al
 
i dont clean my carbs very often, just pvs an so on. An my viper only takes about 5 or 6 pulls after the summer.
 
I have cleaned alot of carbs. this year its like white gell stuff and it does really plug up the piliots it does take much to do.. Gas really sucks now!!
 
I've cleaned 2 sets of Viper carbs so far this year, 1 needed to be rejetted, and the other ended up having 2 plugged pilot jets. Such a pain. 6 carbs down, 9 more to go.
 
People who dont clean carbs are the ones who ball and moan when the have problems and give carburated sleds a bad name.
 
One thing i have noticed in the marine industry is the older 2 strokes seem to be better with the crudded up carbs than the new 4 strokes. I believe the jetting is so lean on the newer carbs any amount of crud will limit the fuel flow.
al
 
I go through the carbs every season just out of habbit, and exchange whatever fuel is still in the tank for fresh stuff. Last year started up fairly easy. Haven't fired it up yet this year. I imagine electric start makes it easier! There is also a fuel station down the street that has no ethanol premium so I try to run that every chance I can.
 
i cant say this enough: CLEAN YOUR CARBS EVERY SEASON.

my best friend has srx as well as me... he never cleaned his carbs past two seasons, his sled was always really hard to start cold, and was never as crisp as mine... well finally this season we did them together he couldnt believe it 2 clogged pilots and the difference in the sled was unbelieveable, he was very happy now he swears he gonna do it every season, and besides its a great time to really clean up the sled under the hood and check everything out, powervalves, exhaust connections, chaincase... all these things cost near nothing and save you not only money but headaches on the trail...
i like knowing what im riding, not guessing...
 
I know, I feel bad for not cleaning them, and I'd feel bad bringing it in to get this done for $.
I'd love to watch someone clean them once, and then I know I could do it 100% after that!

It just seems pretty complicated. Everything that you need to unhook, and all of those small parts inside the actual carbs!
 
Trust me, not as difficult as you may think. With the guides, pictures on here and common sense you can do it. Take your time and be very careful and very organized about the whole process. Plus, anyone on here will be glad to help you out. You know how much you'll end up paying a shop to do it. If you can clean and adjust your PV's you can do this.
 
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