nfrantz007
New member
1996 VMAX 600 XT
So last season I had to replace my 108 due to a cracked spider. The reason it broke (I think) was due to the fact that the previous owner never added the appropriate washers to fit a stock Yamaha belt (1 3/
. After I replaced the belt that came on it with a stock Yamaha belt it would never fully disengage and hence i broke the spider. I bought a new comet 108 exp this past season from slepdparts.com. The clutch is slightly different than the one that broke. I THINK they are both 108 EXP's but the newer clutch has a ~1/4" collar on the back (pics).
3 questions:
1. Will the 1/4" collar on the sheave effect clutch offset? I assume so and am curious if anyone knows which is correct?
2. The stock yamaha belt IS 1 3/8" wide correct?
(sledparts.com sais the clutch will ONLY fit 1 3/8" belts so its not adding up)
3. how many spacers or approximate width of said spacers to fit the stock Yamaha belt? The new clutch has the same internal width as the old so I KNOW the stock belt will not allow it to fully disengage)
So last season I had to replace my 108 due to a cracked spider. The reason it broke (I think) was due to the fact that the previous owner never added the appropriate washers to fit a stock Yamaha belt (1 3/

3 questions:
1. Will the 1/4" collar on the sheave effect clutch offset? I assume so and am curious if anyone knows which is correct?
2. The stock yamaha belt IS 1 3/8" wide correct?
(sledparts.com sais the clutch will ONLY fit 1 3/8" belts so its not adding up)
3. how many spacers or approximate width of said spacers to fit the stock Yamaha belt? The new clutch has the same internal width as the old so I KNOW the stock belt will not allow it to fully disengage)
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nfrantz007
New member
ok... I have some more info.
The part number on the clutch is 17501-10808 which according this pdf (http://www.marshalldistributing.com/files/snow-2011/p.-344-361.pdf) is not the right clutch. Thanks to the above vendor for that one....
The old clutch has NO part numbers stamped on it but I'm going to assume its the right clutch. I will just pull the spider out of the new clutch and put it in the old and sell off the new one in pieces.
So that just leaves the issue of how many spacers go in to fit the stock yami belt (pic #13, 15). I have to believe someone on here has dealt with this before. If not what should the sheave opening be at the base when it's fully open? Same width as the belt?
The part number on the clutch is 17501-10808 which according this pdf (http://www.marshalldistributing.com/files/snow-2011/p.-344-361.pdf) is not the right clutch. Thanks to the above vendor for that one....
The old clutch has NO part numbers stamped on it but I'm going to assume its the right clutch. I will just pull the spider out of the new clutch and put it in the old and sell off the new one in pieces.
So that just leaves the issue of how many spacers go in to fit the stock yami belt (pic #13, 15). I have to believe someone on here has dealt with this before. If not what should the sheave opening be at the base when it's fully open? Same width as the belt?
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SWEDE
New member
I think you'll find that the majority of guys on here stick with the oem clutch and maybe a few p-85 polaris units.
nfrantz007
New member
SWEDE said:I think you'll find that the majority of guys on here stick with the oem clutch and maybe a few p-85 polaris units.
...finding that out the hard way. I'll figure this one out for now and go back to stock when this one blows... shouldn't take long.
SWEDE
New member
Good luck
Call where you purchased clutch,, as Comet make these to run on specific sleds-- (make, model, year, shaft, etc..) they should also have reference chart for specific sled for correct weights and spring to run at the right rpm......
toydoc
Member
"1. Will the 1/4" collar on the sheave effect clutch offset? I assume so and am curious if anyone knows which is correct?"
Yes, you will need to reset your offset. Shim out the driven, setup to spec with offset tool.
"So that just leaves the issue of how many spacers go in to fit the stock yami belt (pic #13, 15). I have to believe someone on here has dealt with this before. If not what should the sheave opening be at the base when it's fully open? Same width as the belt?"
Use the grunt tool (and heat), remove the spider. Clean the red loctite off shaft. Get a new belt, add or remove shims till you get .020 clearance from belt face to clutch face. Tighten without loctite first till you set clearance, then remove spider and add red loctite tighten to spec.
Yes, you will need to reset your offset. Shim out the driven, setup to spec with offset tool.
"So that just leaves the issue of how many spacers go in to fit the stock yami belt (pic #13, 15). I have to believe someone on here has dealt with this before. If not what should the sheave opening be at the base when it's fully open? Same width as the belt?"
Use the grunt tool (and heat), remove the spider. Clean the red loctite off shaft. Get a new belt, add or remove shims till you get .020 clearance from belt face to clutch face. Tighten without loctite first till you set clearance, then remove spider and add red loctite tighten to spec.
nfrantz007
New member
Yes, you will need to reset your offset. Shim out the driven, setup to spec with offset tool.
Gotcha.
Use the grunt tool (and heat), remove the spider. Clean the red loctite off shaft. Get a new belt, add or remove shims till you get .020 clearance from belt face to clutch face. Tighten without loctite first till you set clearance, then remove spider and add red loctite tighten to spec.
.02. Perfect.
Thanks!
Gotcha.
Use the grunt tool (and heat), remove the spider. Clean the red loctite off shaft. Get a new belt, add or remove shims till you get .020 clearance from belt face to clutch face. Tighten without loctite first till you set clearance, then remove spider and add red loctite tighten to spec.
.02. Perfect.
Thanks!