redhead triple 700

B

Brett Corwin

New member
Joined
Aug 3, 2004
Messages
39
Age
62
Location
Finger Lakes area, NY
Hey I could use some help. I would like to get more power from SXR700. Nothing to wild, I want to trail ride but with a bit more "get the hell out of my way power"! :2strokes:
I guess I'm looking for tricks and bolt on's. Any suggestion? Do triple pies help or will I lose my low end?

I know buy a new faster sled.... Love the riding position and this sled! HATE THE STAND UP SLEDS!
 
pipes will certainly help you get more HP,but your gas mileage will really drop down badly.Maybe some PSI pipes will do nicely.Put larger idler and rear wheels in to help with rolling resistance and save hyfax..Porting is another thing you can do for the money..if it is worth it for you.Clutching is always an area where you can get more bang for the buck.A good setup will help in planting that power to the track.Lose weight on the sled and you.For every 10 lbs there is a loss of 1 HP..

or just buy yourself an SRX and be done wioth it.
 
bluemonster1 pretty much said it all, horsepower can be gained by doing the head gasket mod, boring your silencer and notching your reeds or just getting reed spacers. Check the technical pages for more info on these cheap mods.
 
I did the singlre layer gasket mod,reed spacers and drilling out the can on my SXR years back.Sled sounds nice and I am sure I gained the odd HP also.
 
i owned 5 red head triples. It,s all been covered & beat to death on here. Should be 8 years of posts if you do a search.
 
Biggest thing is to make sure the sled is tuned, and running properly. Clutches clean, adjusted and working properly. Traction! A new 1" track, and some studs will work wonders
 
Can someone lead me to the "head gasket and reed mod's". I suck on a computer! It took me awhile to just figure out how to post!

The sled is in great shape! Plugs are burning a nice brown/tan color and a warm compression test gave all above 145lbs.

Thanks all!

Brett
 
Brett Corwin said:
Can someone lead me to the "head gasket and reed mod's". I suck on a computer! It took me awhile to just figure out how to post!

The sled is in great shape! Plugs are burning a nice brown/tan color and a warm compression test gave all above 145lbs.

Thanks all!

Brett
Click to expand...
145 psi . eeeee mine was 112 new and 135 now at 10,000 mi with a peak head
 
Anyone know what the compresion should be on this motor?

s fortuna said:
145 psi . eeeee mine was 112 new and 135 now at 10,000 mi with a peak head
Click to expand...

Ok, Tell me more, Why the eeeee? :o| Unless I did it wrong.....? Warmed up the motor, let it sit for about 10min. took out all the plugs, threaded in the gauge each and pulled it over 5 or 6 times. All cyclindes where between 145lbs. and 150lbs. I thought that was great!

It has the stock 3 piece headgaskets. I have not done the gasket the mod. maybe I should not do that?

What should the PSI. be?


Brett
 
Last edited:
it seems way high for a stocker . mine rips petty good at 135
if it a true 145 then some thing was done or the gauge is wrong . but at 145 use premium and letter rip. clutch kit and hang on
 
Compression test is done cold, with throttle wide open. Your guage could be out of whack too. Even 135 is high for a stock sled. I usually get 125psi from a real good motor.
 
s fortuna said:
it seems way high for a stocker . mine rips petty good at 135
if it a true 145 then some thing was done or the gauge is wrong . but at 145 use premium and letter rip. clutch kit and hang on
Click to expand...

It was a nice snap-on gauge. I always run premium, I found it to be worth the extra $.20-$.70 a gallon depending on who's screwing you at the pumps on the trail!

The original owner said he had alot of work do to it, all by a Yamaha dealer.... He was selling it because he was moving to down south. He was in his late 50's early 60's. The suspention is all set up...very nicely! KYB's front and rear, they look new. I recently tried to get in touch with the previous owner but his number (cell) is not active anymore.

I took it for a rip in his yard and wicked it up a little, it screwed! Surprised me just how quick it was! Having said that its been 2 years since I have been on a sled but that was my MACHZ and that was a FAST sled, 172HP at the crank. It seemed to have almost as much #$%&* as that did.

I'll have a tech. check it out and test it again, I'll post the second readings.


Anyone know what the normal/stock PSI is for this 700SXR? :letitsnow :2strokes:
 
Last edited:
Help me to understand this... Please.

dwarf717 said:
Compression test is done cold, with throttle wide open. Your guage could be out of whack too. Even 135 is high for a stock sled. I usually get 125psi from a real good motor.
Click to expand...

dwarf, Please correct me but I thought you could do cold or warm compression tests? Doing it warm, I though gave you a better read on how tight the engine was?

I always like to lean more! So please if you could explain why you feel cold is better? The most important thing was, as I understand it, is to have them all in the same range.

Also holding it full open can flood out the motor even more so on a triple! I had a friend do it to a triple and by the time he was done he had fuel in the crank (he didn't know then!). Started it the nexted day and it vapor locked and blow the motor (thats a Polaris LMAO)!

So I guess there are different ways of doing this or am I out in left field?
I would like any info you could pass on to me!

Thanks,

Brett
 
I was always taught to do it cold, and do so. You won't flood out your motor holding the throttle wide open. These sleds don't have accelerator pumps on the carbs, and even if they did, you would have to pump them quite a few times to lock the motor. Your buddy didn't flood out his sled by holding the throttle open. He had something else wrong, and I think you meant hydraulic locked, not vapour.
 
dwarf717 said:
I was always taught to do it cold, and do so. You won't flood out your motor holding the throttle wide open. These sleds don't have accelerator pumps on the carbs, and even if they did, you would have to pump them quite a few times to lock the motor. Your buddy didn't flood out his sled by holding the throttle open. He had something else wrong, and I think you meant hydraulic locked, not vapour.
Click to expand...


Laughing at my self yes hydo lock! Anyway why is cold better? I'm going to do it again cold and see. Just wondered what the difference was.
 
Heat makes metal expand,, thus tighter tolerances.... But then cylinders are lubed and warmed up and can let pressure leak through..,, do test at room temp60-70deg,, to get consistent reading with same gage used...
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top