fouling plugs and accs...

S

stumpmike12

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Nov 19, 2010
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seattle
sled is a 2000 srx..well its like this i put new plugs in and ride for half hour hour then they foul out always the middle one.. prob could use a cleaning or adjustment is it possible the oil injector is putting too much oil in the gas? any help would be awesome.. also wanna raise the bars and 4 inches do i need throttle a extension or any mods ? thanks mike.... :2strokes:
 
clean carbs, powervalves wouldn't play with oil adjustment until i had all that done. There are lots of posts here on how to clean them, a pain yes but if your mechanically inclined pretty straight forward.as for the riser i'm saying your going to need throttle and maybe choke extension. I added a 2 1/2 riser to my 99 srx and i just got away with stock. Hope this helps!
 
ok... i looked at the plugs they are br9es... wrong plugs ?... i just bought the sled last year.... so i dont know much about it...could i get away with running br10ecs also think ill stick with a 2 1/2 riser any suggestions on brands.?.. also ideas on cheap mods just looking to get a little more out of it. thanks for the help and this site is very helpful thanks again...
 
well kinda vauge description,however you might check and see that the choke plungers are seating all the way when closed, if the choke cable is too tight it can hold them just off seat and make it rich down low. next thing would be to check the float level and clean the carbs. set all fuel screws to 1.5 turns out from seated and give it a ride and report back.

its not the spark plugs, if you go to a 10 plug it will be worse as thats a heat range colder yet. stay with the 9 heat range.
 
I just had a long talk with one of the engineers (Jeff) at NGK about the BR9ECS vs BR9ES plugs. He told me that the difference is that the BR9ECS plug has a low angle ground electrode. (that's it...that's all...no special metals, no different depth, not hotter, not colder etc etc)
That being said, that causes a difference in the flame front in the combustion chamber. The ECS plug with the low angle ground electrode causes a more controlled and equal flame extension into the chamber where the ES plug causes a 3/4 circle front (blocked by the electrode).
In some engines this makes a difference in detonation control at higher speeds and loads. He concluded that the engine manufactor must have experienced some problems under testing and recommended the ECS plug to provide the best performance and reliability.
He would not recommend using the ES plug instead of the ECS plug due to the likelihood of detonation problems under high loads &/or rpm, but said that the ES plug might work just fine in some engines until conditions in the combustion chamber got hotter and more likely to start detonation.

Been talked about before. Plugs get hot, electrodes melt and start to glow causing pre ignition. Its like having a piece of carbon stuck to a valve in a 4 stroke you have pre detenation. Burns out the plug and they foul.
 
SRXSRULE2 said:
I just had a long talk with one of the engineers (Jeff) at NGK about the BR9ECS vs BR9ES plugs. He told me that the difference is that the BR9ECS plug has a low angle ground electrode. (that's it...that's all...no special metals, no different depth, not hotter, not colder etc etc)
That being said, that causes a difference in the flame front in the combustion chamber. The ECS plug with the low angle ground electrode causes a more controlled and equal flame extension into the chamber where the ES plug causes a 3/4 circle front (blocked by the electrode).
In some engines this makes a difference in detonation control at higher speeds and loads. He concluded that the engine manufactor must have experienced some problems under testing and recommended the ECS plug to provide the best performance and reliability.
He would not recommend using the ES plug instead of the ECS plug due to the likelihood of detonation problems under high loads &/or rpm, but said that the ES plug might work just fine in some engines until conditions in the combustion chamber got hotter and more likely to start detonation.

Been talked about before. Plugs get hot, electrodes melt and start to glow causing pre ignition. Its like having a piece of carbon stuck to a valve in a 4 stroke you have pre detenation. Burns out the plug and they foul.
Click to expand...


Good Info! :)
 
that spark plug information is absolutely correct, however we are talking about it running simply in the garage,not down the lake wide open for 2 miles, its not the plugs causing the problem, its more in the carbs.
 
Plug caps go bad and will cause this also.Switch plug caps from one wire to the other and then see if the fouled plug follows the cap.You can also check them with a multi-meter.It should read between 5 and 6 K ohm's.
 
Just to point out.
You say the middle cylinder always fouls?
If so the oil injection sends the oil to the
fuel pump where it is then mixed. If I am
correct then all 3 cylinders should be fouling.
 
carbs

well i tackeled it i took out the air box the boot on #3 was off so it was sucking air..? could that foul the plugs? . also got the carbs off and was a piece of cake.. now ill clean them tomorrow.. any tips or tricks i should know... ?also the airbox seems like wasted space any mods that can be done? thanks again guys this site has helped me alot btw its 700 SRX ILL POST SOME PICS TOMORROW...
 
another thing to check would be compression. I had a jet ski that would always foul plugs on one cylinder, turned out the compression was just low enough on that cylinder so that is still ran ok but would foul the plugs after a short wlile of riding/
 
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