Ripsaw Clearance question

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tagoes10s

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I installed a 1 1/4 ripsaw on my viper last night. Looks like it will slightly rub on the tunnel protectors. Do I just let it clearance it self?

Dan 02 viper
 

Hey Dan do you have any pictures of your Viper with that ripsaw track on it? I'm thinking of getting one for next year.

Thanks,
Andy
 
Andy no pics yet, but it looks great!

Mr Sled, I think the clearance issue with the drivers are with 9 tooth. I'm running 8 tooth.

With everything bolted in place, I could hear it the rubber of the track rubbing and I can feel them touching the tunnel protectors but not enought to prevent me from turning the track by hand... so its barely touching. I would imagine it would just clearance itself... but I don't want to destroy a new track and find out something is wrong.
 
I really think it has to do with the RipSaw track style...it has taller lugs where the protectors are...I would let them wear in.
 
Yes, for the 9" anti-ratcheting driver, you are supossed to cut 3/16 of an inch off of them so they clear. The 8 inch should be fine. As for it not fitting, which protector is it hitting, both or just the tunnel. I went under my tunnel protector the other day with a dremel and started grinding a little off of the tunnel protectors. You might want to try that. My old track used to rub pretty good on both my front and tunnel and it got annoying so I figured I would cut a little off wear it was rubbing, fits great now, no rubbing.
 
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I am installing a RipSaw on a stock '02 Viper. Do you have to remove the front heat exchanger guards? They are welded on from the factory. Also, do you have to remove the tunnel protectors? I am not using studs.
 
They will wear in without removing the protectors, but I removed mine since I have a 1 3/8 lug track. You have to drill the heads off the rivets to remove the cooler and plastic protectors. Actually I think I cut off the plastic tunnel protectors with a pinch plier used to cut fence wire.
 
Even though you should try to always have them on, if you are running studs, it should'nt really matter if you have them on or not. You will have to remove them both I believe to make the track fit but that is not a problem. Just make sure your track is decently tight and you should'nt have any problems.
 
guess i got lucky with my sxr500. put the ripsaw in and didnt have to remove any thing. there where no protectors in there at all. hooks up like a bugger now ;)!
 
i had to remove my heat exchanger protectors for sure and the tunnel protectors were i little iffy so i just took them off also. im not running any studs tho

Here is a pic of the ripsaw. looks like its going to be fun :rockon:
 

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Yes you have to remove the heat exchanger protectors but not the tunnel protectors. Just take a grinder to the welds and the should pop right off.
 
what about on an srx if you use suspension driop brackets and 8 tooth antiratchet drivers, do you still need to take anything out? I want to run studs down the center if possible. thanks!
 
Just through a saw on my srx. No clearance issues what so ever. We have some guys running saw's with 9 Tooth drivers, tunnel/exchager protectors, and 1.325 studs. One has almost 4500 mile with out an issue. He just runs his track alittle tighter than normal.
 
I installed 1.25 ripsaw on my srx and had major rubbing issues. Rubbing both tunnel protectors and heat exchanger protectors. I couldn't move the track at all by hand. Hung the rear in the air and the sled could barely turn the darm thing. Called PortYamaha where I purchesed it and they recommended I remove both tunnel and exchanger protectors. Easy fix. After a hundred miles I had it dialed in and it hooks great! No need to stud. Less rotating weight and looser track tension=better top end! As long as you don't do much lake riding, sucks on ice with no studs. For me it was an issue of give and take. Well worth it!
 
Just put a rip saw on last night! removed them both. I hope this track is everything people say???
 
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