Exhaust valve "PULL THRU"?

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NewSRX'R

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I hear alot of guys on here refering to exhaust valve "pull thru"....What exactly is this...anyone got a pic of it?
 
it's where the cable attaches to powervalve into the cylinder head. the pull thru usually means your power valve has been sticking or is completely stuck in the cylinder.the head of valve is aluminum and it wears. YA*AM*A*HEAD i believe fixes them. sure signs is when You will notice power loss on mid and top range.
 
Clean them every 8-1000 miles adjust oil pump properly and you'll have no worries, synthetic oil helps too.
 
if you ever have that issue hook up with YA*AM*A*HEAD and he'll fix them. he did mine earlier this year and did an incredible job. i think he charged me $60 and they are $130 each new from Yamaha.
 
here is a pic of a pull thru valve ...if your look like this send me a pm and i can make them better than new .....also here is a picture of them after they have been repaired ...
 

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Mine are in good shape look like bottom pic nice and clean but I have a little skiving near the port area I believe it was on top of the flat face but a little emory cloth and steel wool celaned them right up.
 
daman said:
Clean them every 8-1000 miles adjust oil pump properly and you'll have no worries, synthetic oil helps too.
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I last cleaned mine 1000 miles ago, ran nothing but amsoil interceptor. pulled them apart today to clean them up for the season and were completely nasty. two were stuck in the jugs but was able to pull them out. I think i might switch to klotz this year.
 
You guys do know its not the brand of oil you use that gums up the power valves right. It's more than likely your riding style, oil pump setting, engine not running at proper temp etc.. thats causing these problems. Most full synthetic 2 cycle oils are created equal. Besides being a full synthetic, Interceptor oil has a very good detergent package that also helps keep things clean. Don't blame the oil.
 
could running hot cause it more often? i had problems with the temp light coming on last year. This year I added a rear heat exchanger and replaced the thermostat, also installed a temp gauge so i'll be able to keep an eye on things better than just a dummy light.
 
Netefrog said:
You guys do know its not the brand of oil you use that gums up the power valves right. It's more than likely your riding style, oil pump setting, engine not running at proper temp etc.. thats causing these problems. Most full synthetic 2 cycle oils are created equal. Besides being a full synthetic, Interceptor oil has a very good detergent package that also helps keep things clean. Don't blame the oil.
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x2...its the way u ride an the way the sled is set up..mines stock an running yamalube an i have no problems..clean them before every season an thats it. An they arnt even that bad when i pull them.
 
wrong lol oil type does have an effect on how fast the valves carbon up .i went from shell advanced to amsoil inter/and clean them half as much
 
without trying to offend anyone:
"Give it some more throttle grandpa", if you putt putt these sleds they will carbon up no matter what oil you use. I never have gooped up valves,mine are wide open, I ride fairly hard and "work" my engines because thats what its meant for. I have had very good results using amsoil. Most any late model synthetic oils will perform well.
I have worked on sleds for guys wives before and they typically will have alot more goop in the valves and such......putt,putt,putt,putt,lol
 
tofastSRX said:
wrong lol oil type does have an effect on how fast the valves carbon up .i went from shell advanced to amsoil inter/and clean them half as much
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that is due to the additive package that amsoil has the manufacturer add to their oil. amsoil is not a cure all pv problems magic oil. but the additive package really helps
 
mrviper700 said:
without trying to offend anyone:
"Give it some more throttle grandpa", if you putt putt these sleds they will carbon up no matter what oil you use. I never have gooped up valves,mine are wide open, I ride fairly hard and "work" my engines because thats what its meant for. I have had very good results using amsoil. Most any late model synthetic oils will perform well.
I have worked on sleds for guys wives before and they typically will have alot more goop in the valves and such......putt,putt,putt,putt,lol
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Lol, i ride fairly aggessive on the trails. Also try to keep up with all maintinence on my machine. I think i'll pull them apairt after 500 miles this time and see how they look. Oh, and i'll make sure to shit can it more! :letitsnow
 
It's been posted many times before it all plays a part!


oil used(synthetic usually is better,Amsoil is loaded with calcium a detergent)
your thumb
pump setting(important one)
jetting
 
Hey Guys

I have aquick question. My valves are currently out of my engine and being cleaned and while all the valves look good, would you suggest I do the repair anyway or if they look good should I continue to use them as is? My sled has around 10000kms on it and I believe they have never been worked.

Thanks,
Chris
 
filo_bedo said:
Hey Guys

I have aquick question. My valves are currently out of my engine and being cleaned and while all the valves look good, would you suggest I do the repair anyway or if they look good should I continue to use them as is? My sled has around 10000kms on it and I believe they have never been worked.

Thanks,
Chris
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Chris look in the grove area on the valve inside, your looking for any type of wear mark grooving,caused from the cable end,,also look at your three cables the cable ends need to be nice and round any type of flat spot indicates wearing and will stress a new stock valve.

post back...
 
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