Out of hibernation 2010: tough starting Viper....

Super Sled

Super Sled

TY Off Trail Expert
Joined
Dec 5, 2008
Messages
692
Location
Duluth, MN
Well, I think I "over fogged" my Viper last spring with too much 2 stroke oil down my spark plug holes. I went to fire it up the other day and it just refused to turn over and run, with like 20 hard pulls..


Well, nothing a little starter fluid wont quickly cure. I sprayed 5 seconds worth down each plug hole and it took about a half of a pull, when it fired right up like now.


Mines always been a great starter, but I beleive I had too much oil/fogging againt in there. Was good for my crank bearings, but made my first start of fall of 2010 tough.


I guess never underestimate the power of starter fluid........


;)! ;)! ;)!
 
this next time you prep that sled for the summer storage, don't dump oil down the spark plug holes, instead let the sled idle and hold the oil pump wide open, by holding the cable. just let the sled idle for like 5 min or so, until you notice it smoking more than usual and then kill the engine. dumping oil down the spark plug holes, doesn't lube the components like you think it would, as the oil doesn't mist around and get everywhere like it would if you were to have the oil pump wide open while the sleds idles. a bud of mine always stored his sled w/dumping oil down the spark plug hole and then had his engine go south, shortly after using it, as the wristpin bearing let go from rust pitting, cause of no oil getting onto the wristpin during the dumping of oil down the plug hole, to keep the metal parts protected during summer storage, not to mention his sleds were always picky to start come winter. plugs would load up w/oil from so much sitting in the crankcase. as a matter of fact, he hydrolocked his vmax4 from having too much oil dumped in his crankcase.
 
Super Sled said:
snipped
I guess never underestimate the power of starter fluid........
;)! ;)! ;)!
Click to expand...

Don't underestimate starter fluid's ability to wash off the oil from the cylinder wall. Probably not a big deal since your cylinders were all lubed up from storage but I'd recommend some pre-mix from your weekdwacker in a mustard bottle rather than either... nasty stuff!
 
Agreed - fogging is way better than dumping oil down the plug holes. Get good clean fuel (with oil) into the carb bowls, and they should start right up. I really like a SeaFoam (or Ring-Free) mixture to start and end the season.
 
snomofo said:
Don't underestimate starter fluid's ability to wash off the oil from the cylinder wall. Probably not a big deal since your cylinders were all lubed up from storage but I'd recommend some pre-mix from your weekdwacker in a mustard bottle rather than either... nasty stuff!
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That's great advice Sno! I was rushed this past spring. I know not good, but that's what I did. I think I basically filled the crank up with oil..... Not good, but now it's started. The carbs are cleaned and she's going great. I rode around for a few hours last night. But man was she smoking for the first 20 mins or so.

My point was she fired up on the first pull after using a little starter fluid. That stuff ignites I tell ya!
 
Super Sled said:
That's great advice Sno! I was rushed this past spring. I know not good, but that's what I did. I think I basically filled the crank up with oil..... Not good, but now it's started. The carbs are cleaned and she's going great. I rode around for a few hours last night. But man was she smoking for the first 20 mins or so.

My point was she fired up on the first pull after using a little starter fluid. That stuff ignites I tell ya!
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Oh yeah, it works good.

Sorry if I sounded like some know it all but I think back to my neighbor's liberal use of the stuff on his 4 stroke ATV. When heading out to the shanty you didn't want to be behind him.
 
starting fluid does indeed wipe the oil right off the cylinder walls and it even worse for a 2 smoke because it relys on this oil film to keep from scuffing the rings and skirts. I know, it really does work good and will light in and under water it seems...lol, but you really shouldnt use it on a 2 stroke unless you are at the last straw,cause over time it will introduce mr.squeeky to you in person. :o|

I usually always get some chainsaws and snowblowers in for seized pistons from this, they wouldnt start so the owner used starting fluid to get it going... #$%&*
 
Im having the same problem with my 00 SRX just come in from pulling it for two hours and the whore still wont go, figure I would leave it for the night and try again in the morning.
 
A good practice to get into when you are ready to fire up these snowmobiles after a summertime of sitting is this:

- Drain all of the old fuel out of the tank, and fill up with FRESH premium fuel. Put the old fuel in your truck.

- Pull off the carbs and clean them out thoroughly (mains, pilots, nozzles, and float bowls). You might as well inspect your reeds while you're that far for chipped or cracked pedals.....it's only 12 more bolts.

- Re-install, connect the fuel lines, coolant lines, and cables, but leave the airbox off.

- fill up a squirt bottle with mixed pump fuel - it doesn't have to be mixed fuel if this is not a new motor, but I always keep a mixed squirt bottle laying around at 40:1 to start the race sled and new motors, so I just use that.

- Hold your carb slides wide open, and squirt some fuel through each carburetor.

- Pull the chord. It will fire. It may not stay running because the fuel pump has not yet moved enough fuel to reach the float bowls in the lines.

- Repeat until the fuel reaches the bowls, and it stays running. You might have to do this a few times, but hey, you'll only pull it over a few times, instead of a hundred.

- Once it runs, shut it down, and throw the airbox back on.

- Enjoy.
 
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Don't forget to put some gas in the tank before pulling for two hours ,,,,, oops,,lol/.
 
Another way to get gas in the lines easier is to pull the plugs and pull it over with no compression, or if you have an extra set of hands, take your air hose, pressurize the fuel tank and pull it over. I made a tank cap that I could hook the air hose to and do it my self, but it came up missing in the last move
 
maybe I missed it but did anyone recomend some premix in a little bottle!! takes a couple times but way easier then pulling hundred times!
 
captnviper said:
maybe I missed it but did anyone recomend some premix in a little bottle!! takes a couple times but way easier then pulling hundred times!
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I mentioned that on the last page, with a small writeup of good practice.
 
The Problem With Spraying Fogging Oil Down The Spark Plug Holes As Mentioned Previously Is That It Doesnt Reach The Crank Bearings Or Seals.....give It A Couple Years Of Doing That And You Will Be Replacing The Crank And Or Seals!
Why Not Do It Right And Just Spray In The Carbs With The Engine Running?
 
mrviper700 said:
starting fluid does indeed wipe the oil right off the cylinder walls and it even worse for a 2 smoke because it relys on this oil film to keep from scuffing the rings and skirts. I know, it really does work good and will light in and under water it seems...lol, but you really shouldnt use it on a 2 stroke unless you are at the last straw,cause over time it will introduce mr.squeeky to you in person. :o|

I usually always get some chainsaws and snowblowers in for seized pistons from this, they wouldnt start so the owner used starting fluid to get it going... #$%&*
Click to expand...
Not to mention BENDING THE HELL out of the rods !!! I love guys who use starting fluid on ANYTHING !!!! I use it to wash the GREASE off of stuff when I was a road service mechanic!!! Also to wash my hands !!! NEVER to start an engine though !!!
 
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