no wonder they pull through

T

the tree man

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Joined
Jan 13, 2008
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78
Age
65
Location
winnipeg,manitoba
2000 SRX 700.Put in a new power valve last year to replace one that broke in half and had maybe 10 hours on it.It was already pulled half way through when I checked today and I had adjusted it slightly loose to begin with.I pulled out the other 2 and they are like brand new where the cable attaches(with 6500 miles).Turns out the new one does not have a steel sleeve in the cable slot and the others do.Those cable ends are under built to begin with considering the soft material in a valve.I drilled the end to 3/16" and put a short piece of steel 3/16" brake line in.Drilled the center to 9/64",cut the slot with a 1/32" zip wheel and bingo,perfect fit and bullet proof pull through prevention.I'm not sure if the other 2 were modified by someone else or were factory but at $167.00 a crack Yamaha should be doing it.
 
I'm not set up to load pictures into my computer.Still running my HAL 9000 from the '80's.Suffice to say that if you have P/V's without the steel sleeve you should do this 20 minute upgrade.The cables will fail before they pull through;way cheaper.I'll try to get my son to load a few before and after photos from his computer.Follow the directions in the first posting and it's a done deal.The 2 valves that were already done I resleeved just so all were fresh.Nice and tight.Good for a long time.
 
I drilled the existing hole in the valve for the cable which was almost exactly 9/64" with a good sharp 3/16" bit just in the vice with a cordless drill so I could go real slow and put a little down force on the bit so it wouldn't snag the long skinny slot on top.Drills super easy,stuff is like butter.Super slow and easy and make sure the drill is straight.Ends up pretty much a zero fit so the tubing goes in tight.Even once you cut the slot it stays put.You could use a Loctite product on it if you want before you slide the tubing in.In the 2 old valves the sleeves were kinda loose but didn't go anywhere so the zero fit is fine.FirstI drilled out the inside of a 1' piece of brake tubing with a 9/64" bit to about 1" deep so you have a long piece to hold on to while you wiggle the the tubing in.With a little twisting it'll go.For sure don't try to tap it in with a hammer.This stuff is SOFT.If it doesnt go run the bit through again till you can push it in tight by hand.You'll never wreck anything by hand.Flush it up on one side and cut the other side off flush with a hacksaw.You can either cut the slot with a hacksaw(which is not wide enough for the cable so it would need to be widened a bit with an ignition points file or something)or the 1/32" zip wheel in the die grinder was perfect and you can go real slow.I just cleaned up all the rough edges with a little emory cloth and a small file.This is a sound repair because I see how the 2 original valves look.Hope this clarifies the procedure a bit.
 
makes sense. I will try if I ever have it happen again. Funny thing is I clean my power valves before every season and have not had one fail since. I even use the cheap Citgo Sea and snow.
 
Ya,I'm not sure why these things have given me so much grief.Bought the sled used and was a high miler with not much history.Who knows what kind of bastardizing has gone on before you're the proud owner.I've had 2 valves so far that the paddle part of the valve broke off where it meets the round shaft.I adjusted and cleaned these things and carbon build up,cable too tight or binding was not a factor.Hopefully something in the past before I got it is a factor and as I eliminate the old stuff so goes the problems.This newest valve with the 1/2 pull through is odd because off the short time it's been in.The old seals were pretty crusty so maybe some extra drag on the sealing surface worked the cable too hard and it wormed it's way in.Whatever the case,an ounce of prevention,pound of cure(cash) is the story.I just use Castrol regular 2 cycle snowmobile oil and build up on the valves has been minimal.Good luck if you doll up your valves with the sleeve.
 
I've never had one pull through yet(knock on wood) but my sled only has 1900 miles on it. I clean the powr valves only every other year and they are pretty clean already when I do it. Only run Yamaha oil in it.
 
I have always used Yamalube and it is crap for keeping the valves clean.I haven,t had a pull through in almost 15,000 miles,but I clean them every 1,000 miles.I put over 6,500 miles on the first two years I had it,so they got cleaned 6 times in 2 years.I even did them 1/2 way through a trip up in Northern Ont. one time.
 
I just ordered a couple spare valves off Ebay and I'll be doing the steel line thing to those also just to have on the shelf.When I fix em' up I'll load some pictures of the procedure.You know how it is,once you have a nagging problem with something mechanical you get paranoid and start overcompensating.Alot of guy's have experienced pull throughs,not neccessarily from poor maintenance either,so the steel at least gives a little forgiveness.As much as I just love wrenching till 1 AM so I can go riding the next day,I,d rather have a rum and eggnog and watch Sanford and Son instead of cleaning those damn valves more often than I clean my shorts.Knowing the cables won,t pull out from an extra nano blob of goo that didn,t get removed helps me sleep better.I still say those things are over engineered and under built.
 
This is a little of topic but I have a 03 Viper and I cleaned the powervalves last year. Should I clean them again if i only put like 50 Miles on the sled since then? We didnt get any snow last year. I use Klotz oil.
 
Cwagner100 said:
This is a little of topic but I have a 03 Viper and I cleaned the powervalves last year. Should I clean them again if i only put like 50 Miles on the sled since then? We didnt get any snow last year. I use Klotz oil.
Click to expand...
No you should be good to go....
 
I would love to see pics of the brakeline fix. Although I like Mr. Powervalves fix much more for long term, the brakeline fix could be done by almost everyone for the short term....

If the brakeline fix is done, can Mr. Powervalves fix still be done afterward?
 
You bet.The ends of the powervalve don't really need precision tolerances where the cable attaches.The end could be chopped off and added to anywhere as long as it's not where the seal rides.Going from the factory 9/64" hole to 3/16" only goes into the barrel of the valve about an extra 1/64" so lot's left for the stainless bolt fix.Christmas time,getting right into the nogg so the pictures might be blurry.Oops,sorry,that's my vision not the camera.
 
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